Ace-Garageguy Posted July 26, 2016 Posted July 26, 2016 Or if you like a nice yellow-brown tint, just put your plastic windows in the house with a really heavy smoker for about 30 years. Works great!
Can-Con Posted July 26, 2016 Posted July 26, 2016 But that's really a different thing. You're not tinting the glass, you're just adding that tint across the top. I think the guys here are asking how to tint the whole window.Take a closer look Harry. I did tint the whole thing in a factory shade too, front and back.
StevenGuthmiller Posted July 26, 2016 Posted July 26, 2016 But that's really a different thing. You're not tinting the glass, you're just adding that tint across the top. I think the guys here are asking how to tint the whole window. I think he's done both Harry. I can see a very light green tint on the glass overall. Do you think it would be possible to dye the strip across the top & then the rest of the glass? Usually, I shoot a strip across the top with acrylic paint & then spray the entire glass with Testors "Window Tint". It works pretty well but I would prefer a green overall tint rather than "smoke". Steve
Can-Con Posted July 26, 2016 Posted July 26, 2016 (edited) Exactly right Steve. Your method is almost the same as mine. But I use a custom mix of Tamiya acrylics instead of smoke. Then I clearcoat them and polish them out . Here's a shot of some from the last batch I did last week. These are a bit darker than the ones in the other pic and look about twice as dark as this in person. For some reason it doesn't show up as dark in the pics. Edited July 26, 2016 by Can-Con
Russell C Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 .......You can use RIT fabric dye to tint the windows with no chance of getting any dust or crud on the glass.Dang! Something new to learn every day! http://store.ritstudio.com/rit-dyemore/
unclescott58 Posted August 1, 2016 Posted August 1, 2016 Or if you like a nice yellow-brown tint, just put your plastic windows in the house with a really heavy smoker for about 30 years. Works great!30 years? My dad used the above method to custom tint his real Mustang II windows in a year or two. Of course that method did damage his lungs and he died at the age of 73 because of that damage. So, I guess it's not technique I would recommend.
crowe-t Posted August 7, 2019 Posted August 7, 2019 Will Tamiya acrylic X-19 Smoke work for tinting windows or is Tamiya TS-71 Smoke in the spray can better?
Dave Van Posted August 7, 2019 Posted August 7, 2019 4 minutes ago, crowe-t said: Will Tamiya acrylic X-19 Smoke work for tinting windows or is Tamiya TS-71 Smoke in the spray can better? I've used other Tamiya 'clear' sprays and they work well. The green is great for OEM visor tints.
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 7, 2019 Posted August 7, 2019 1 hour ago, crowe-t said: Will Tamiya acrylic X-19 Smoke work for tinting windows or is Tamiya TS-71 Smoke in the spray can better? If you're looking for a "smoke" or black tint, Testors #2949 "Transparent Black Window Tint" works great! One of the few Testors spray paints that I really like. But be certain to get the #2949 lacquer. There is an enamel tint, but it doesn't work worth a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. I recently purchased a set of these transfers to try on my next project for the tint band. I'm hoping that they work well. It will save a lot of farting around with paint. Steve
crowe-t Posted August 7, 2019 Posted August 7, 2019 3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said: If you're looking for a "smoke" or black tint, Testors #2949 "Transparent Black Window Tint" works great! One of the few Testors spray paints that I really like. But be certain to get the #2949 lacquer. There is an enamel tint, but it doesn't work worth a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. I recently purchased a set of these transfers to try on my next project for the tint band. I'm hoping that they work well. It will save a lot of farting around with paint. Steve Thanks for the head up on the Testors #2949 "Transparent Black Window Tint. I was going to try the Tamiya acrylic X-19 Smoke but I'll try the Testors instead.
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 8, 2019 Posted August 8, 2019 2 hours ago, crowe-t said: Thanks for the head up on the Testors #2949 "Transparent Black Window Tint. I was going to try the Tamiya acrylic X-19 Smoke but I'll try the Testors instead. Make sure the glass is clean and apply it to the inside of the glass in very light coats, (to my eye, one light coat is good enough). If you aren't happy with the results and need to try it over, it cleans off easily with an alcohol wipe. Steve
crowe-t Posted August 8, 2019 Posted August 8, 2019 17 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: Make sure the glass is clean and apply it to the inside of the glass in very light coats, (to my eye, one light coat is good enough). If you aren't happy with the results and need to try it over, it cleans off easily with an alcohol wipe. Steve Is it better to airbrush or is spraying from the can OK?
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 8, 2019 Posted August 8, 2019 2 minutes ago, crowe-t said: Is it better to airbrush or is spraying from the can OK? I spray it right from the can with good results. I find it works best if you have a good clean nozzle and you warm the can in hot tap water for a few minutes before spraying. Steve
Greg Myers Posted August 10, 2019 Posted August 10, 2019 Willys gassers, Model A's, any Deuce will have flat glass. Making the job very easy. Any good office supply store will have a multi color pack of paper binders of varing color assortments made of transparent plastic material.
Curt Posted August 22, 2019 Posted August 22, 2019 On 8/7/2019 at 4:37 PM, StevenGuthmiller said: If you're looking for a "smoke" or black tint, Testors #2949 "Transparent Black Window Tint" works great! One of the few Testors spray paints that I really like. But be certain to get the #2949 lacquer. There is an enamel tint, but it doesn't work worth a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. I recently purchased a set of these transfers to try on my next project for the tint band. Steve, have you tried these yet? I got a set today but the directions in Japanese don’t give me a clue how to use them! ?
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 22, 2019 Posted August 22, 2019 10 minutes ago, Curt said: Steve, have you tried these yet? I got a set today but the directions in Japanese don’t give me a clue how to use them! ? Nope, not yet. I haven't gotten to the glass on my current build yet. But it shouldn't be much longer. I had assumed that they were just a dry transfer that you cut around, peel off of the backing and apply to the inside of the glass. But there's every possibility that they could be a water slide decal. At least the pictures on the back of the package don't show anything about dipping in water first. I haven't even opened the package yet. Steve
Curt Posted August 22, 2019 Posted August 22, 2019 I think I’ll have some time tomorrow night to cut out one of the small ones to try. If it doesn’t work as a transfer I’ll treat it like a decal. I’ll post whatever I find out.
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Curt said: I think I’ll have some time tomorrow night to cut out one of the small ones to try. If it doesn’t work as a transfer I’ll treat it like a decal. I’ll post whatever I find out. I unwrapped the sheet after my last response and they are printed on very thin flexible film with a mild adhesive. So all that is required is to cut around the edge, peel it off of the backing, lay it on the inside of the glass and burnish it down. Seems like it should work pretty slick. Steve Edited August 23, 2019 by StevenGuthmiller
Curt Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 I looked at some instructive photos on the BS Models site and it looks like they are spraying water on it - more like a decal.
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 I'm guessing that the water is there for positioning purposes. So you can move it around once it makes contact with the glass. Steve
Rodent Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 5 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: I'm guessing that the water is there for positioning purposes. So you can move it around once it makes contact with the glass. Steve And more easily get air bubbles out from underneath. I have installed a few 1:1 Lamin-X bumper protectors and the thin film of water is definitely helpful. But only use 1/25 as much water on the windshield tint. ?
Curt Posted August 24, 2019 Posted August 24, 2019 23 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said: I'm guessing that the water is there for positioning purposes. So you can move it around once it makes contact with the glass. 23 hours ago, Rodent said: And more easily get air bubbles out from underneath. I have installed a few 1:1 Lamin-X bumper protectors and the thin film of water is definitely helpful. But only use 1/25 as much water on the windshield tint. ? You guys were both spot on! I managed to get one cut from the backing but I'm going to have to work on technique. I didn't have a sprayer so I sprinkled some water on. A fine mist would have worked better. it's easy to get some tiny air bubbles under the film.
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 24, 2019 Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Curt said: You guys were both spot on! I managed to get one cut from the backing but I'm going to have to work on technique. I didn't have a sprayer so I sprinkled some water on. A fine mist would have worked better. it's easy to get some tiny air bubbles under the film. Doesn't look too bad for a first shot at it! Steve Edited August 24, 2019 by StevenGuthmiller
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