'53 Chevy track racer - minor update 9/21

[Rider]

Looking good.

CA and baking soda/powder works great as filler. 

[slusher]

Looking good.

CA and baking soda/powder works great as filler. 

I Remember Space Cowboy used that all the time....

[Jantrix]

I'm going to use the CA/powder method after all. MEK is frightful stuff apparently and I really don't have a good safe place to use it, and I'm not going to waste a bottle of solvent glue to use it.

[mustang1989]

Yeah that MEK is some nasty stuff and it's best to stay far away from. I've got a story I'll share with you later after I get back from my sons basketball game.

Meanwhile I like the way this thing is shaping up.

Edited August 13, 2016 by mustang1989

[Rider]

Good luck Rob. I picked up some MEK today. I want to try the liquid plastic/filler method. No idea what ratio to use, just going to wing it. 

[Jantrix]

Good luck Rob. I picked up some MEK today. I want to try the liquid plastic/filler method. No idea what ratio to use, just going to wing it. 

Please read the MSDS on the stuff and take proper precautions. Guard your lungs and skin. 

http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927358

[TarheelRick]

Looks like you have the section lines ready.  I have tried the Mek/styrene and it didn't work that well for me.  I got the wrong mixture - too much MEK and not enough styrene and it really made a mess.  Fortunately, I was able to use Bondo glazing filler to clean up the mess.

[Rider]

Please read the MSDS on the stuff and take proper precautions. Guard your lungs and skin. 

http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927358

Thanks Rob, I appreciate the info and concern.  Seems to be in line with Acetone, Lacquer thinner, and polyurethane reducer.  I have a couple of super strong/efficient exhausts fan that are running anytime I mess with any of this stuff. 

[misterNNL]

Nice splice on that chassis,very careful planning and clean,straight cuts.

[Jantrix]

Here's my thought for the finish.

[Intmd8r]

I like it!

[slusher]

I'm going to use the CA/powder method after all. MEK is frightful stuff apparently and I really don't have a good safe place to use it, and I'm not going to waste a bottle of solvent glue to use it.

Rob, I do not want to get off topic but what is MEK???

[Jantrix]

Rob, I do not want to get off topic but what is MEK???

 Methyl ethyl ketone. It's a solvent that will melt styrene in much the same way as Tenax. If you use enough it will render the plastic to the point where it is like putty and can be used as filler. However there are health risks that require protective gear like a mask with filter and safety glasses when using it. I will likely try this in the future, I just do not have a good area to use it in, as I'm in an apartment.

I have started scribing the trunk free. I will re-tape and begin sectioning the body soon.

[Psychographic]

Good luck Rob. I picked up some MEK today. I want to try the liquid plastic/filler method. No idea what ratio to use, just going to wing it. 

I use this method all of the time. I mix it thin enough that when I stick a toothpic in the mix and pull it out one drop will drip off fairly quickly. If you mix it too thick it takes to long to dry. The thinner you make your mix, the more it will shrink as the solvent evaporates. As you work with it the MEK will evaporate from the bottle in the mix. If I'm doing a lot of work with it, I have to add a little MEK to the bottle every few weeks to thin it back down.

I keep it in an old Plastruct Bondene bottle and don't even smell it when working with it. I've used the Ca/Baking soda mix and find the MEK/Styrene mix to be much stronger, especially when sectioning, chopping and such.

 

[afx]

I like the liquefied plastic filler method as well.

[Jantrix]

I found some time this past weekend. Me and the trusty #11, dubbed "Excaliber" removed the trunk. I laid out the tape lines and then scribed my cut lines. I'm going to take my time and scribe the pieces apart because I don't want to lose a lot of material. So no zona blades or Dremel cutting. I'm hoping to be get most of the engineering done on this before I have to pack the stuff up for the move.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Looking good. You've laid out the sectioning cuts very much like the kustomizers did it on the 1:1s. Can't go wrong doing it right. 

[mustang1989]

Cool plan out Rob.

[Jantrix]

Thanks guys. I hope to do more this weekend, but I'm pretty slammed at work.

[randyc]

Riddle me this.  I've read about sectioning for years in the magazines, but don't know the answer.  I also realized years ago, that I am too ham-handed to try to chop or section.  I am toorought on the reglued plastic.  Anyway. why couldn't you do the vertical cut in a door seam?  Would hide the cut better?  But then again, it's the smallets cut so I guess it reall doesn't matter.  Good luck.  I get all sweaty and nervous just looking at your pics. 

Randyc

 

 

[Jantrix]

Riddle me this.  I've read about sectioning for years in the magazines, but don't know the answer.  I also realized years ago, that I am too ham-handed to try to chop or section.  I am toorought on the reglued plastic.  Anyway. why couldn't you do the vertical cut in a door seam?  Would hide the cut better?  But then again, it's the smallets cut so I guess it reall doesn't matter.  Good luck.  I get all sweaty and nervous just looking at your pics. 

Randyc

 

 

Since there is so much cutting going on, the vertical cuts are a minor issue. I'd rather mess with the door lines as little as I can get away with. I must admit I'm pretty nervous myself as both the inside and outside of the body will have to look good. So I can't just add a piece of sheet plastic across the back of the cut for strength. On the other hand, maybe I could just add a strip of flattened solder along the cut line on the inside, to replicate a weld seam, and not really have to worry about getting it perfect. 

[randyc]

Since there is so much cutting going on, the vertical cuts are a minor issue. I'd rather mess with the door lines as little as I can get away with. I must admit I'm pretty nervous myself as both the inside and outside of the body will have to look good. So I can't just add a piece of sheet plastic across the back of the cut for strength. On the other hand, maybe I could just add a strip of flattened solder along the cut line on the inside, to replicate a weld seam, and not really have to worry about getting it perfect. 

Last top I chopped, I did so with NO fillers.  On Revell 30 Fords or something.  Where it was a pretty straight roof.  Was very carefull and filed everything to fit.  Glued and reglued, til glue would push out of the seam, almost like a weld.   Then cleaned up a llittle.  But left obvious cues of the chop.  So it looked kinda rat rod like.   Anyway, I'm not sure I would use Solder.  Instead would probably try to moto tool the groove with a ball cutter and glue AND CA a section of sprue into the joint - all plastic?  I've read the articles.  Just haven't had much luck.  But the solder may work.  IDK.  

Looking forward to seeing more.

[Jantrix]

When I did my deathracer, I flattened the solder and then distressed it with a piece of brass tubing, cutting little C's into the solder. I though made a very decent replica of a weld bead.

[randyc]

Ahhh ok.  Looks good there.

Randyc

 

[Jantrix]

The sectioning has been accomplished. I think it's a much improved profile. As you can see, I did not section the grill area. This will allow me to use the full grill. I will likely not use the front bumper but will likely use the rear. I'll fill the bumper guards from the rear and shave them off. The trunk area will be a challenge as there's not much room below the tail lights to get in there and sand. I'll add a few tabs to the inside of the lower piece so that it's a little easier to join the two pieces and then fill any gaps with sheet stock. More soon.