Micro Mask by Microscale question

[thatz4u]

Anyone ever used it? Does it work over paint/primer? Raw plastic? How well does it work? Give your opinion, thanks, Al Rich

[Snake45]

I've used it long ago. Don't remember anything particularly good or bad about it. But I've never used ANY commercial masking fluid that works nearly as well as what you can make yourself from thinned Elmer's glue, a drop or two of dishwashing liquid, and, if you want, a couple drops of food coloring.

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 9/11/2016 at 1:56 PM, thatz4u said:

Anyone ever used it? Does it work over paint/primer? Raw plastic? How well does it work? Give your opinion, thanks, Al Rich

I'm fixing to find out. I'm doing a 1/26 Gee Bee that requires intricate scallops to be masked over an irregular surface, and the only way I see to do it in any reasonable amount of time is with the MS blue goo. We shall see. I'm doing a removal test today.

[crazyjim]

Sounds like an interesting topic.

[935k3]

I have found it can be very difficult to remove. I have tried many brands and found The Humbrol Maskol to be the best. It dries to a very solid rubbery texture that is easy to remove. Do not use any over Acrylic paints, they bond together and will not separate.

Edited September 11, 2016 by 935k3

[Art Anderson]

  On 9/11/2016 at 1:56 PM, thatz4u said:

Anyone ever used it? Does it work over paint/primer? Raw plastic? How well does it work? Give your opinion, thanks, Al Rich

Unless MicroScale has changed something, their MIcro-Mask is little more than liquified latex rubber--the same stuff that can be used to make rubber molds for pouting Plaster of Paris in, and that stuff has been around for literally decades.  This material, in various forms and consistencies, has been sold and used as a paint masking medium for almost as long as I've been building plastic models (and that goes back to 1952 and Gowland & Gowland Highway Pioneers kits.   While I almost never use the stuff anymore, I did learn that for those pesky bits of the stuff that seem to defy removal with fingers, a sticky piece of fresh masking tape will get it off a surface.

Art

[ChrisBcritter]

I used it on a prepainted AMT '62 Catalina to two-tone the roof. I covered all the silver paint on the window trim, let it dry, and trimmed the excess with a new blade. It worked very well; there are only a couple small spots that need touchups and none of the silver paint peeled up.

[peteski]

I don't care for Microscale mask.  It is not latex-based (at least the old bottle I have) - it is more like thick gelatin. I still have a bottle of it somewhere (I only used it few times).

But I do extensively use liquid masking in my modeling (but usually to protect gluing areas from paint).  The stuff I use is a custom mixture of the latex-based masking agents.  Most art-supply stores sell artist's liquid masking fluid. That is a very thin liquid which dries to a thin layer of stretchable latex. But that is usually too thin for my needs.  I get some thick liquid mask (used to mask PC boards in electronic industry) and mix it with the thin liquid mask.  That gives me a thicker masking fluid - perfect for what I need.

Micro-Mark also sell liquid mask, but it is similar to the Microscale mask - not liquid-latex-based.

 

Mixed with something like this.

[Snake45]

Okay, y'all just spending your money for products that don't work all that well....

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 9/12/2016 at 2:28 AM, Snake45 said:

Okay, y'all just spending your money for products that don't work all that well....

I'm perfectly willing to try your magic Snake Mask. What are the rough proportions you use, or about what consistency to you try for? White glue is already about the viscosity of the Micro Mask I have, and it's easily controlled with a brush for fine edges. I just need more guidance on your concoction. 

[peteski]

  On 9/12/2016 at 2:28 AM, Snake45 said:

Okay, y'all just spending your money for products that don't work all that well....

Not at all, my solution is perfect for my needs.  Actually the Microscalle stuff I have (and don't like) seems quite similar to your concoction.

[Snake45]

  On 9/12/2016 at 2:56 AM, Ace-Garageguy said:

I'm perfectly willing to try your magic Snake Mask. What are the rough proportions you use, or about what consistency to you try for? White glue is already about the viscosity of the Micro Mask I have, and it's easily controlled with a brush for fine edges. I just need more guidance on your concoction. 

I can’t tell you any "proportions" or ratios because I just make the stuff by the seat of my pants. Basically, I take an old plastic 35mm film thing (you could use a pill bottle, old paint bottle, or anything else that will seal when you’re done) and fill it about 1/3 or so full of Elmer’s glue. This is then diluted with HOT water (cold water takes forever to mix, hot just mixes better/faster). It will take much less water than you’d think to dilute the Elmer’s to a paint-like consistency. If you use too much water, just squirt in some more Elmer’s (or dump it all and start over). You can make the stuff any consistency you want. I prefer an almost gel-like formulation—to where it just won’t quite run off a paintbrush.

Now mix in a couple drops of dishwashing liquid. This improves flow and keeps the stuff from drying with air pockets/bubbles. It also seems to improve "removability" of the dried goo—I’ve never had any problem pulling it off any painted surface, as can sometimes happen with commercial latex-based stuff.

I add a few drop of red food coloring to help me see where I’m painting it, and to assure complete coverage when I’m finished. I haven’t had the food coloring "leach" out and stain anything yet.

Paint it on with any common paintbrush of whatever size, right down to your smallest if that’s what you need to do. Paintbrushes clean up with warm running water in seconds.

I haven’t had much luck cutting the stuff to shape when dry. I usually end up pulling up the edge and ruining it and having to re-do it. So I just take care to paint it exactly where I want it.

If you do have trouble removing the dried mask when you’re finished, it will come right off under warm running water.

So that’s how you make Snakeskin liquid mask. Give it a try.

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 9/12/2016 at 1:27 PM, Snake45 said:

So that’s how you make Snakeskin liquid mask. Give it a try.

Thank you sir. Will do. I really need something I can rely on to do what I'm trying to do.  

[thatz4u]

So that’s how you make Snakeskin liquid mask. Give it a try.

 

I'll do that on a scrap body to hone my skills first, & I'll return the Micromask, thanks Snake45

 

[MrObsessive]

I dunno guys, I'm not crazy about any of the liquid masks homemade or otherwise. Here's what I use to keep paint, glue, etc at bay.

Good ole fashioned Tamiya Tape, and Parafilm. 

I've used those liquid masks (not just Microscale either) and I've found them to be troublesome when it comes time to lift them off. Scratches or marks where you're trying to get an edge to lift it out of the way, can make for a mess of a nice paint/detailing job.

This is what works for me------your results may vary!

Edited September 12, 2016 by MrObsessive

[Ace-Garageguy]

Hokay...here's my dilemma. I have to lay razor-edge scallops on this fuselage with all the ribbing. I've tried most of the tapes on the market, and even if carefully burnished down, they all have lifted just enough to get a fuzzy line in places.

That's why I'm leaning towards a liquid mask. Anybody have any better ideas?

[MrObsessive]

  On 9/12/2016 at 7:28 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

Hokay...here's my dilemma. I have to lay razor-edge scallops on this fuselage with all the ribbing. I've tried most of the tapes on the market, and even if carefully burnished down, they all have lifted just enough to get a fuzzy line in places.

That's why I'm leaning towards a liquid mask. Anybody have any better ideas?

Bill, I think one of the items that gives the most razor sharp edges as far as that would BMF. I've used it a number of times when I want a crisp, clear separation. Yeah, it's a little pricey to go this route, but it's worked well for me.

[Art Anderson]

  On 9/12/2016 at 7:35 PM, MrObsessive said:

Bill, I think one of the items that gives the most razor sharp edges as far as that would BMF. I've used it a number of times when I want a crisp, clear separation. Yeah, it's a little pricey to go this route, but it's worked well for me.

Exactly Bill!   How many times have we heard that advice:  "You get what you are willing to pay for?"  I'm taking a break from masking the exterior of my Tamiya Toyoda Model AA--and I'm  I'm already cursing Frog Tape--the stuff will just NOT stay down as I would like.  But, for masking those rolled edges around the windows, strips of BMF (albeit from an almost used up sheet are the berries for masking in those window reveals.

As you well know, and have shown, it pays to experiment some times, and at times "BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH the Torpedoes--FULL speed ahead!" is great advice.  For those reading this, DON'T be afraid to experiment a bit--try things, see what works for you and what does not.  It's not very possible to indulge Champagne tastes on a beer budget most of the time--sometimes, to achieve the look, that "degree of perfection" it does take risking that extra $10 bill or so--but in the end, if the project comes out at or beyond your wildest dreams--wasn't it worth it, for all the pleasure and satisfaction (and hopefully some accolades from your peers in the hobby)?   Hmmmmm?

Art

[unclescott58]

  On 9/11/2016 at 6:09 PM, 935k3 said:

I have found it can be very difficult to remove. I have tried many brands and found The Humbrol Maskol to be the best. It dries to a very solid rubbery texture that is easy to remove. Do not use any over Acrylic paints, they bond together and will not separate.

I've always wanted to try some liquid masking solution since I first heard of the idea back in the early 70's. Don't know why I have not tried it over the years? So, on the above advice I went ahead and ordered some Humbrol Maskol. I'm looking forward to seeing what I can do with it.

[MrObsessive]

Art, even for masking off black trim that newer cars have particularly on the window surrounds and certain trim (like on my recently finished BMW), nothing beats BMF! I don't look at it as being wasted------whether it's nice shiny chrome or neat, straight black trim.

The end result is that the model appears neat and clean and yes, the extra cost is worth it.

[Snake45]

  On 9/12/2016 at 7:35 PM, MrObsessive said:

Bill, I think one of the items that gives the most razor sharp edges as far as that would BMF. I've used it a number of times when I want a crisp, clear separation. Yeah, it's a little pricey to go this route, but it's worked well for me.

I can't disagree with that at all. There are times when nothing will mask better than BMF, and this might be one of those times. I don't think ANY liquid mask will work well for making this edge, including my own formula.

To do this, I would probably:

1. Lay down the first color, then lay BMF for about a half-inch or so on either side of the desired line.

2. Lay the line out with strips of razor-cut masking tape or thin drafting tape.

3. Use the tape as a guide to cut the BMF to the desired curved line.

4. Remove the BMF from the area to be painted, and remove the guide tape.

5. Airbrush the FIRST color along the border line (or clear), to help prevent the second color leaking under the edge.

6. Remove mask, marvel at your masterpiece. Or plumb the depths of despair, whichever applies.

It is NOT necessary to mask the whole job with expensive BMF, just the border. The rest of the masking can be done with liquid, Walmart masking tape, or whatever you want.

[935k3]

Ace, have you tried Tamiya's tape for curves? It's very flexible like the 3M fine line vinyl tapes.