Correcting molded in / chrome headlights

[gtx6970]

Anyone have any tips to help the looks of the molded in head lights on these older kits. ?

 

Drilling them out is not an option at this point ( chrome was already re-plated when I got the kit )

[BigTallDad]

Get a picture of the 1:1 headlight, print it on decal paper, then trim/apply it to the headlight.

[Mike Chernecki]

I use these from Scale Productions, they come in three different size to suit either single or dual headlamps. They look great and thin enough to place over top your plated parts in most cases.

http://www.scaleproduction.de/product_info.php?info=p1294_headlights-7mm.html

 

[Ramfins59]

I've used a couple of different techniques to "improve" the looks of chromed headlights on older kits and/or promos...

I've painted a light coating of off-white acrylic paint over the chrome headlight lens and after that dries I apply a light coat of either clear enamel, Elmer's Clear School Glue, or, clear epoxy to give it a clear shine.

I've also used clear enamel to glue spare, clear headlight lenses in the right size from my parts stash over the chrome lenses. 

[gtx6970]

I mixed some clear pearl with some silver and white ( its more clear pearl than anything)  and went over them with that will add some Elmer's clear glue over them maybe today. But so far I like the contrast. I'm not after 100% perfection . just something that looks better them chrome.

[Can-Con]

I put a little clear blue wash on the bottom and a little clear smoke wash on the top. Makes li kinda look like the natural reflection in the light.  ,, but even with a replated part, drilling out and replacement with something better is best.

If you're worried about ruining your grille. just start with a small hole in the center of the light and carefully make it bigger with a sharp x-acto and needle files. That's how I always do it.

This is the original kit plating on this grille, not replated after drilling out the lights. If you're careful, it's not that difficult and nothing is damaged.

Edited October 9, 2016 by Can-Con

[W-409]

I've always painted those chrome headlights with gloss white and before the paint dries, start wiping it off from the center so that the chrome will be seen through the white paint. This is an easy and fast way to improve the look, and if you happen to wipe a bit too much paint off, just apply some more paint to the headlights and start again.

 

[jeffs396]

A coat or two of Testors clear parts cement works wonders for realism on these plated headlights as well...

[Intmd8r]

Lots of good suggestions here, although I never had any sort of success with the Testors clear cement/window maker.

Lately I've been using Microscale Kristal Klear.  Its better than nothing, but not quite as good as the lenses sold by Scale Productions.  Literally just apply a drop on top of the molded headlight lenses as needed with a toothpick and watch it dry.  No further effort needed.

I have a sneaky suspicion that this stuff is just a rebottled container of Elmer's school glue!

The M.V. Products Head Lamps plus sold by Detail Master work well too, and seem to be a cheaper alternative to the Scale Productions products, sold at $4.50Eur .

Must say, Can-Con looks to have the technique mastered!

This one was build with the M.V. lenses:

This one was build with Krystal Klear over the molded lenses:

(unfortunately the Krystal Klear wasn't totally dired when I took this pic)

-Steve

[landman]

These were done by printing a headlight image on clear decal paper. Didn't look too bad at first.

Then they darkened. Chemical reaction?

[Deathgoblin]

Drilled mine out, used those googly eyes for dolls that you can get at Hobby Lobby as the backing reflectors and glued them into the holes.  Used foil to make them reflective, and then glued clear lenses over them. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

You can still drill them out even though the chrome has been redone.

Just carefully hollow them out with a very tiny Dremel bit just deep enough to accept clear lenses.

Yes, you do have to be very careful, but you have to be even before plating as well.

I did this with my '69 Coronet build, & while it's not perfect, it's better than the ugly chrome lenses.

 

Steve

 

 

I see one of the lenses is loose & moved on me.

I'll be re-gluing that.

[peteski]

 

 

This one was build with the M.V. lenses:

 

This one was build with Krystal Klear over the molded lenses:

(unfortunately the Krystal Klear wasn't totally dired when I took this pic)

-Steve

The MV lenses have very realistic looking reflectors, but the smooth lenses don't look realistic. Headlamp lenses (used in the standard U.S. specs headlamps) have optical facets molded in the glass.   Lack of that detail really kills the realism. I've scribed the facets into the MV lenses in the past but it is a tedious process which (since it is done freehand)  is not perfect.

Speaking of the headlight lens optics (facets), I see lots of modelers not paying attention to how those facets line up. In real cars the headlamp unit is keyed to only fit in the headlamp holder one way. That is because the headlamp optics produce asymmetrical beam of light. If not installed properly the headlight could blind incoming cars, or not illuminate the road properly. The general rule is that the majority of the lines (facets) in the lens need to be perpendicular to the road surface.  If they are not the realism is lost again. The above model has the lines in the lenses not perpendicular to the road. It might look cool, but it is not realistic for a road vehicle.

It doesn't take any extra time or effort to properly position the kit-supplied lenses, but it makes a big difference in realism.

Edited October 12, 2016 by peteski

[Intmd8r]

The above model has the lines in the lenses not perpendicular to the road. It might look cool, but it is not realistic for a road vehicle.

It doesn't take any extra time or effort to properly position the kit-supplied lenses, but it makes a big difference in realism.

Before anyone gets too critical, the red car I showed was done that way by design for the Rat Rod CBP.

It was never intended to look like a concourse restoration. You're probably the first to notice that detail.

Anyways........ M..V lenses are just fine for a shelf model that most of us build for fun. I use Krystal Klear over the moulded headlights so the facet detail is not lost. This style of headlight is one of the worst things a kit manufacturer could do to us builders.

 

[gtx6970]

Thanks all.

I painted over them with a mixture of pearl and just  a little silver mixed in. Then did the clear Elmers glue trick over that. They look much better. Not perfect mind you . But enough I can live with them on my shelf. The car in question is nearing completion soon

[Intmd8r]

Sounds good Bill - make sure to post pics of your efforts!

[peteski]

Before anyone gets too critical, the red car I showed was done that way by design for the Rat Rod CBP.

It was never intended to look like a concourse restoration. You're probably the first to notice that detail.

It is your model Steve, so you can obviously do as you please.  I was just pointing out what jumps right out at me (maybe I'm extra anal, but that's usually a good thing when building models). It just seems lately that I have seen not properly aligned lenses on several factory-stock models.  If I was judging them I would deducts points for that.

[StevenGuthmiller]

It is your model Steve, so you can obviously do as you please.  I was just pointing out what jumps right out at me (maybe I'm extra anal, but that's usually a good thing when building models). It just seems lately that I have seen not properly aligned lenses on several factory-stock models.  If I was judging them I would deducts points for that.

I agree.

This really has nothing to do with an intentional mis-alignment as with Steve's model.

The ones that drive me nuts are the guys who spend hours perfecting a great paint job, adding all the detail "bells & whistles" & then just gluing the lenses in however they fall.

Looks horribly sloppy to me.

 

Steve