48 ford woody (gluebomb series) > rodded> 99% done pics

[Foxer]

This is really looking good! I like the look from here of the painted chrome trim.

If this was in the States, they would have been ordered from J.C.Whitney 

[espo]

I don't know what you have in mind for the exhaust system, but once the frame is glued together it may be difficult to run the exhaust. I just finished the '48 Police version and made my own exhaust. There is very little room to work with. Since you're thinking about a different rear differential maybe a change to parallel leaf springs with say a differential from the '57 Ford kit or something like that.

[geewhiz]

I'm really loving this woody, Richard!!!  Your wood treatment on the upper front doors is fantastic looking.  This woody is looking just right!!!????????

[promoman]

Nice job

[crazyrichard]

thnx guys !!!!

 

 

I don't know what you have in mind for the exhaust system, but once the frame is glued together it may be difficult to run the exhaust. I just finished the '48 Police version and made my own exhaust. There is very little room to work with. Since you're thinking about a different rear differential maybe a change to parallel leaf springs with say a differential from the '57 Ford kit or something like that.

well i'm mocking it all up ..not sure about the exhaust yet , even not sure what engine to put in ..

exhausts will go through the holes in the x ... but it will be hard nono inpossible to run them under the axle since that will be all the way down ..

so that leaves side pipes but i dont really have the space to put then under lets say the running boards .. it will sit slammed down ...

a cool option would be to let the pipes end behind the x frame and with a slight bend so the openings are facing downwards .. space wise that would work and i think seen from below cool .. def. will be a custom exhaust .. the kit exhaust is a laugh

[espo]

I have seen your idea on the down turn exhaust and it is used a lot on 1:1 cars with the same suspension challenges. If your rear differential sits that high up in the frame you could run the exhaust straight back between the diff. and the "road". If you use a late model V-8 the exhaust manifolds are going to interfere with the steering box. I put a small block Chevy. in my build and had a real fight clearing the steering box.

[crazyrichard]

thnx and well thats a worry for later , when i have choosen the engine i will tackle the whole engine bay , headers , steeringbox , wiring ... loads of stuff to do still

i'm using a corvette axle and diff now , the cover on the back is from a 32 ford ...its sitting loose in there lots to do .. make brackets , airbags , sway arms etc .. will be fun !

rough stance > air down , every part is loose so a very loose dryfit

the proof everything clears , i took lots of time to get every part thinner , like in a kit form you have the interiour tub floor , loose bottom floor , chassis .. in that way its not like a real car and styrene can be thick so lots of sanding and fitting to get enough clearance to slam it but still have ground clearance ..

engine will run free as well .. luckely this car has a fairly big engine bay so later with engine and manifolds i hope to fit it all snugly in there

the frame seen from the engine bay .. i only had to cut out 2 square notches , funny the way its cast the sided had a indentation <so to speak> there ..it looks like its supose to have the nothes cut out

close up ...

 

its all looks a bit dull color wise due to the led lights . and lots of sand dust from the styrene on everything .. later the outdoor pics show the car much better , like the ones i posted earlyer

 

[crazyrichard]

i went on building the front suspension , made lower control arms and bags ..now the bags i want to try and wrap in real rubber so they look like the real deal .. shape wise whats there now came the closest to reference pics

made some bars from the tranny mount to the control arm brackets , maybe not .......but i liked the look .. i want to make extra braces from the tranny brace to the chassis so it doesnt just sits on there .. the bars should sit on the x frame and would run to the front leaf spring axle i now took that idea and made my fantasy thing

started a base for a steering rack , will be dressed with connection , brackets etc .. later on

took the kits steering box and cut some stuff of and placed it as far out of the way possible , now i just need to connect it to the rack

still got plenty ground clearance

 

i know some stuff may not look 100% accurate but without reinventing the wheel (read chassis) these are nice additions without making it a year long build (so to speak)

 

loads to do still , make bags for the rear axle , airlines , make brakes , brakelines and so on ...

[Oldriginal86]

This build is inspiring. Makes me want to add more detail to my build. I can't imagine rolling and laying the completed body upside down on the table. Would be worrying constantly about damage. Maybe I'm building backwards but the paint is the last step before final assembly. What do you do to protect?

[crazyrichard]

 

This build is inspiring. Makes me want to add more detail to my build. I can't imagine rolling and laying the completed body upside down on the table. Would be worrying constantly about damage. Maybe I'm building backwards but the paint is the last step before final assembly. What do you do to protect?

thnx randy and yes you are right i always build everything and last paint the body ....this is the first time ever i worked backwards ..

this is because i started on this badly painted body , bought in a bundle of already started kits .. i wanted to try some stuff and it ended up in a full build ...

i have to say its not that bad going this route and i just carefully lay it down , roof is covered in material so thats not really a big issue .. and its weathered so i could touch up easy

[espo]

Great idea on the suspension.  

[crazyrichard]

Great idea on the suspension.  

thnx ! well i had to come up with something simple to make and where i copuld first set the ride hight and be able to fit the wheels .. because i could not change the body to fit the chassis as drastic as you could in styrene fase .. all in all i think its a nice solution

 

i will use the flathead from the kit , not only because i love flatheads and it fits best with the style ..it also means way more space to fit headers a steering arm and all stuff that needs to go in there .. that way all those parts are visible and it wont be cramped in

even the oil pan doesnt stick out so the bare block needs no alterations

the radiator was way to tall so i shortened it and glued in on the frame .. all will come together like a puzzle , on top i cut of the filler cap , stupid location and the tins are over it , no way to get to it

i drilled a hole though the nose and into the top of the radiator and put on a metal hollow tube .. its glued into the radiator and falls into the hole in the nose when the chassis meets the body or the other way round

found a cool fillercap in my partsboxes , i will paint that my chrome to match the window , bumper and grille

the hood gos on no issues

[1930fordpickup]

This just gets better everyday. 

 

[espo]

The radiator is a problem on these kits. The 1:1 the radiator sits just behind the cover and closer to the engine. The kit mounts it in much the same way but it sits in a very shallow notch on the frame and relies on the hoses to hold it in place. I had to glue the #%@*& part several times before it would not get knocked off when mounting the chassis to the body.

[crazyrichard]

thnx !!

 

The radiator is a problem on these kits. The 1:1 the radiator sits just behind the cover and closer to the engine. The kit mounts it in much the same way but it sits in a very shallow notch on the frame and relies on the hoses to hold it in place. I had to glue the #%@*& part several times before it would not get knocked off when mounting the chassis to the body.

yes i saw that on reference pics .. since mine needed to be cut heavely and i probable will make real rubber hoses i kept in in there .. mine is only glued on the corners since under the radiator there is a slot / opening .. i use superglue ... becomes rock solid

this wa seemed cool to me and a logical place for the filler cap and looks cool .. and since i love to change stuff fact is this is the less changed build body wise i ever did .. usually i change loads on the body .. this just was right the way it was , i also didnt want to make the body to sleek and modern .. easy to clean all the moldings and shave the wood bolts and give it a more modern look .. but nope it needs to be classic looking

[mustang1989]

Man the amount of work that it's taken you to get this far is off the charts Rich. It's all worth it and its cool to watch it all come together.

[crazyrichard]

thnx joe ! i must say i dont build for hours and hours these days , on weekends usually i do on workdays about 30 min. to one hour a day .. but i find myself taking more and more time every build .. dont need to finish but working slowly to the end

[slusher]

Looking great Richard!!!!

[DrKerry]

Man that is lookin kool Rich!!!!!!!! Love the look and the stance.....

I'm workin on a 48 myself, although converting it to a 41 to make a kustom coupe!!!!! Lovin yours though!!!!!

[crazyrichard]

thnx guys ! and kerry i would love to do a coupe .. i love them !

 

this morning before people come over for my wife's birthday i did the rough work on the steering rods .. its connected to the rack and box now .. needs some sanding and maybe some smaller details

 

Edited February 5, 2017 by crazyrichard

[DrKerry]

Very kool.....

[crazyrichard]

thnx ! i made some lines in the rack (like hoses) ..in the end i want to ad a pulley with steering fluid reservoir / pump

[crazyrichard]

engine work >

 

alright the stock headers where no option (loose on the matte beside the engine)

now i know a flathead has 3 pipes per side going into one pipe .! but these headers i had in my stash fit like a glove and position was very very good ..

now i recon i could get away with the story i put new heads on the engine ??????? i saw some flatheads with different heads and 4 pipes per side ..

so what do you guys say ??

the testfit was very nice it doesnt hit the steering box and rods .. i already filed the headers thinner and the box smaller so the gap is a bit bigger between them

good position at the bottom to build pipes

[crazyrichard]

So i did change the headers and cut one pipe .. otherwise it would have to become ardun heads ..oh well ...

but it got me thinking i love this flathead and its way nicer to use for a oldskool rod .. plus i upgraded the suspension and changed to a beefy rear axle , wide tyres.

so the 90-110 bhp from the flathead would make no sense , look cool but ... i think its way better to use a modern engine to go with the air suspension and go for the restomod-ish style .. keep the woody looking real classic inside and out but with modern stuff ...

 

here is the flathead with loose fitted parts , dryfitted ... no sanded edges ..

 

 

i could use this ford 5.0 high output v8 ... really build it up and make everything more realistic , like the intake manifold and hose and airfilter .. i can change that / redo stuff and make it realistic ..

 

 

so opinions asked .. i have a lot of engines but i never got to use the 5.0 mainly because in most cases its to modern and not a real eye catcher .. but in this case it might tie everything together ??

 

so go for the 5.0 ?? or maybe just a v8 block and build it up myself with carbs .. or stacks or supercharger ??

 

SHOUT !

[crazyrichard]

rough mock up with the 5.0 ho v8 > thoughts ???

 

steering arm runs perfectly free , even better then with the flathead .. the whole engine fits like a dream

valve covers on

and the intake manifold and air cleaner , those will off course be reworked and made more realistic

cut a small section of the automatic transmission , it fits so perfect .. i will add a round end behind the tranny and make the flat earea suitable for the fluid pan

 

so ?? what ya think ???