Deepening Panel Lines

[Funkychiken]

Hi All,

 

I hope someone can help me, there are lots of tips, tutes etc that suggest one can deepen a panel line by "using the back of a hobby knife".

I had never really tried it, as when I had, it is nigh on impossible to keep the blade in the "groove" (obviously there isn't much of a groove - that's why i'm trying to deepen it) and I used to end up cutting outside the panel lines so much, that it ruins the body - it's quite difficult to use filler to fill an incorrectly cut groove - right next to where a panel line is.

Anyway, I digress, I tried to do it more recently, but the result is terrible. please see photos, is there at technique or method or video of it being done properly? what am I doing so wrong to get it so bad...?

 

thanks...!

[Snake45]

I use the back of an old Xacto blade and I guess the secret to success is experience. I start a groove very lightly and don't use much pressure until I've established a real groove for the blade to follow. Push too hard too early and as you know, the blade can jump out and scratch where you don't want it.

I'd estimate it takes 30 or 40 strokes to get a properly deepened groove--maybe even more.

Scratches are more easily filled with superglue than with putty.

Keep trying--the results are MORE than worth the effort. Soon you too will be looking down on modelers who don't take the time to do this extremely important step (IMHO).

[Miatatom]

it's quite difficult to use filler to fill an incorrectly cut groove - right next to where a panel line is.

Anyway, I digress, I tried to do it more recently, but the result is terrible. please see photos, is there at technique or method or video of it being done properly? what am I doing so wrong to get it so bad...?

Been there, done that. Yes, it is really hard to fill and hide those scratches, all the while trying to keep stuff out of the panel line. Here's what I found that works for me.

http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_110&products_id=329

[bugman9317]

I have been using the scriber tool from Bare Metal Foil with great results. The biggest tip I can give is when you are first starting the line, use no pressure and just glide it through the line. Once you get it a little deeper you use a little pressure. Another thing I do is take it a few strokes one way and then switch the direction of the cut.

 

https://www.bare-metal.com/Introduction-To-Using-Bare-Metal-Foil.html

[BigTallDad]

Or you can use a photo-etch saw blade, starting very lightly, then gradually adding pressure.

[astroracer]

Like most modelers I also use the back side of a broken hobby blade. What I do different is outline the door line with fine line tape. The tape will help guide the blade if you go easy. You can do one or both sides if the lines are mostly straight and do both sides if curvy, as in your case.Outline your doorlines then, like Snake said, go VERY lightly until you get a consistant groove going. If I am doing a master and moving door lines I will make a cardstock template of the door and tape that in place to use as a guide.

Mark

Edited August 7, 2017 by astroracer

[R. Thorne]

I like the trumpeter panel line tool, but the umm-USA scr-01 scriber has a better feel and I rarely ever go "off line" with it.  I had a lot of trouble with the back of an x-acto blade.  It worked better using the blade only, but never as good and consistent as the scribing tools.  Ron.

[Art Anderson]

I've been using an old Xacto razor saw,for about 25 yrs now--using the teeth at the back end of the saw, pulling the saw toward me.  I cut a half-moon cavity in the rear end of the blade, between the teeth and the saw handle, giving the saw blade a "tail" which allows me to get into tight places, even work around curves.

Art

[Jon Haigwood]

You might try angling the blade back to help stay in the groove util you establish a deeper groove.

[dlh]

I use two tools. I start with a scribing tool like:

https://www.squadron.com/model-building-tools-and-supplies-s/2522.htm#?filters=page=1|SearchWithin=scribing tool

The angle of tip gives me more control as I pull the tool. I've found that using just the scribing tool results in a wider, unrealistic panel line, so after the line is established, I switch to the back of a #11 blade.  I have also ruined several models.  For me the key is starting with a VERY light touch, much like cutting BMF with a new scalpel blade.  My mistakes come from not concentrating or getting too excited while doing it.

Dave

Edited August 11, 2017 by dlh
Errors

[Funkychiken]

Thanks for the tips all, I think I'm going to invest in a scribe-r.

A wide variety of heroics here, thanks for sharing...