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Posted

Still plugging away at this rearend. I’m using the tires from the monogram 41 lincoln. Instead of grafting centers into the stock wheels I decided to add a strip to the wheels from the revell 29 roadster. They fit pretty good aside from a gap on the back side so I made a plate to cover it. I then made some mounts for the spring on my quick change. I’m using the spring and cross member from the amt mod rod. 

 

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Posted

Very cool. That's a good tip regarding the Lincoln tires and wheels from the Revell 29. Nice spring hangers too. The tweedy Pie kit has some nice spring hangers too.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I made a more stock appearing floor pan for the rear. I wanted to add some detail to it but I tried a couple things on a test panel and nothing really turned out quite like I wanted. I decided to use the olds rocket motor so I went ahead and made some engine mounts for it. 

 

 

 

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Edited by 502
Posted (edited)

I think all the body work is done, I need to shoot another coat of primer but I believe it’s good to go. This is the final ride height as well. I’m gonna start on the front sheet metal tomorrow. Also added the cowl vent. 

 

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Edited by 502
Posted

I'm really enjoying your methodical approach to the design of this coupe Justin.  It will probably look so good in primer that you won't want to paint it!  I know that a lot of people are going for track noses on 32 and 34 coupes these days but in my opinion you did the right thing leaving the 32 grille on it.  I have a decent collection of really old rod magazines and frankly, most of them ran stock or filled grilles rather than full custom efforts.  I think you are on the money with this one.

I do admire your craftsmanship on the window reveals after your chop.  I have quite a few unfinished chops on the bench simply because I can't seem to achieve the neatness around those mouldings that you display here

Cheers

Alan

Posted

Thanks for the comments guys. I started on the hood sides today and I have to say it really helped the looked of this car in my opinion. 

 

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Posted

I added a small strip to the bottom of the hood side. That body line just flows so much better now. 

 

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  • 2 months later...
Posted

Back on the bench with this one. Hoping to finish it up for a show next month. Let me tell ya, wiring up this rocket motor was a massive headache! I think it was worth the work though. 

 

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Posted

Loving the updates!  The new hood side flow is perfect, and the Olds looks killer in the engine bay. Nice wiring job. I like the new '40-style X-member and the spring hangars too. 

 

Posted

Glad to see this one back on your bench. The Olds looks great, wiring it is definitely worth it with the unique way the wires run through that loom on the real ones, you pulled it off here

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the comments. I was hoping to have the body work finished up but ran into a few small issues. I sprayed some krylon primer and it seems to have had a bad reaction with the plastic or something. The surface was smooth as glass but after spraying it bubbled up. 

 

Edit: after looking at it some more I took my exacto and barely scraped the surface. The flaw only exist on the surface of the paint. Anyone have any info on this? I’m going to try a different paint. 

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Edited by 502
Posted
3 hours ago, 502 said:

Thanks for the comments. I was hoping to have the body work finished up but ran into a few small issues. I sprayed some krylon primer and it seems to have had a bad reaction with the plastic or something. The surface was smooth as glass but after spraying it bubbled up. 

 

Edit: after looking at it some more I took my exacto and barely scraped the surface. The flaw only exist on the surface of the paint. Anyone have any info on this? I’m going to try a different paint. 

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The solvents in the last coat probably got into the previous coats just enough to lift them where your bodywork is. It can happen with lacquer primers and color coats as the solvent in the last coat tries to melt into and chemically bond with the previous coats. Knock what you can down with sandpaper around the edges, and try to use something like Comet Cleanser on a toothbrush- this should level the surface enough to re-primer without detracting from the louvers.

Depending on what you plan to use for top coat, you may be able to get Tamiya Fine Surface primer to lay down over top of previous coats without raising and ghosting the bodywork again...I wouldn't do it unless you are using a relatively "cool" paint as a color coat, but it is really good stuff. If the plan is to use automotive lacquer for final color, decanting the Krylon (or other automotive) primer into an air brush and building up light mist coats with lots of flash time between coats will help.

Posted

I've been having problems with Krylon doing this for the last year and a half or so. It seems to be much "hotter" than it used to be, so I can no longer lay wet coats straight from a spray can without it wrinkling the plastic or primer underneath.

Posted

I’ve finished the suspension but still need to build the cowl steering setup. As soon as I finish that, the frame should be ready for paint. The radius rods for the rear aren’t quite what I wanted. Ideally I’d like them to sit a little further to the outside of the axle. I just modified the stock ones from the kit and that’s what I ended up with. It’ll work fine for this build, the exhaust will exit out the side so no clearance issues to worry about there. 

 

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Posted

Sweet hot rod, Justin!!!  The craftsmanship in this car is awesome and it shows in such a very perfect looking deuce!!!  Looking forward to seeing more and good luck at the show with it!!!?????????

Posted

Most of the steering components are done, I still have a few little things to do once I start assembly. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The painting continues! I’ve decided to name this car “Hell’s Belle” after a b24 bomber from WWII. It was part of the 494th bombing group so this car will be numbered 494c. 

 

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