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Posted (edited)

Ah, the magic water trick. I'm always curious about the results.

If the original builder used liquid cement which melted the plastic pieces together then good luck (with any method other than mechanical).

Edited by peteski
Posted

I have used CA de-bonder to break stubborn glue bonds, but it will affect clear plastic if it is left on too long. If you can get a fresh set of windows, it may be the best way to go.

Posted (edited)

Depends on how badly the clear pieces were "melted" together to the mounting joints. If they aren't too welded in and can somewhat move or bend around, i'd try the mineral spirits method as the Ziploc freezing bag trick sometimes works and sometimes doesn't (usually good for getting parts with weak joints and chromed pieces,  or if the builder used the blue non toxic stuff).

Worst case scenario is that you'd have to get new glass, but the good news is that these kits are common and you could easily snag a started or incomplete kit  next to nothing for it.

 

Edited by RickRollerLT1
Posted
7 hours ago, thatz4u said:

mineral spirits & artist brush...

Yes, I've used mineral spirits in the past and that did work. Took awhile, but I was able to rescue the model without it becoming a bigger mess. As of right now, I'm restoring a '74 'Vette (no pics yet) which someone REALLY glued in the glass to the roof (the runner), and I did end up having to take a Dremel and grind out the rest.

Usually I try to stay away from rescues like that, but this was otherwise not built badly. Total glue bombs nowadays for me are out of the question.

Posted

Sometimes a trip to the stripper tank will help, especially if the windows have paint between them and the body. This is even better since you aren't trying to save the glass.

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