'66 Falcon B/FX

[Dann Tier]

Its looking BRILLIANT, Bud!!!!

[afx]

Try the Silver Leaf Christopher - I think you will like it.  I work to get the right stance Scott - thanks.  Thanks Dann.

The 260/289 blocks were painted black in previous years.  In '66 Ford changed to their Corporate Blue.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/paint-body/mump-0308-select-correct-vintage-mustang-engine-paint/

 

Edited April 26, 2019 by afx

[afx]

Fabricated a simple set of ladder/traction bars.

Bumper/grille fitted.

Cleaned up the wheel wells, removed the trim on the top edge of the rear fender and the script on the C pillar.

[Snake45]

Looking good, VERY clean work! 

You are going to replace the missing door/window frame work, aren't you? 

[Scott8950]

very nice work!!! its looking good

[Brutalform]

Those traction bars, and engine look fantastic, JC. 

[vintagercr]

It is coming along nicely!

[afx]

Snake, no I like it with out the side window frame.  I'll fill the seam at the roof edge.  I'll also be adding a roll hoop just behind the door that will create a break in the side window opening.

Tom, I'll be adding some through bolt detail to the traction bars, needed the glue to setup before I drilled the flanges. I really enjoy building engines.

Thanks Scott & Steve.

Edited April 29, 2019 by afx

[dublin boy]

Nice stance JC.

[afx]

Thanks Shay, glad you like it.

[bogger44]

Great work, JC.  The motor and traction bars look fabulous.  I have the same kit that was my Dad's that he built way back when that I'd like to rebuild someday, seeing what you're doing here I may go the same route as I find it very inspiring.

[afx]

Glad you like the build Tony.  If you have any questions about what I have done just ask.

[Speedfreak]

Looking good JC, car has character. What is the color to be?

[afx]

Thanks Gene.  Haven't decided color yet.

[MeatMan]

Coming along nicely. I love the stance.

[Brutalform]

On 4/29/2019 at 6:40 AM, afx said:

Snake, no I like it with out the side window frame.  I'll fill the seam at the roof edge.  I'll also be adding a roll hoop just behind the door that will create a break in the side window opening.

Tom, I'll be adding some through bolt detail to the traction bars, needed the glue to setup before I drilled the flanges. I really enjoy building engines.

Thanks Scott & Steve.

Well, you really are good at building them. 

When you do the thru bolt, are going to use bolts like Pro Techs PE style, or scratch build them? I’ve been incorporating them into my builds lately, from suspensions to oil pan and trans pan drain plugs. 

Edited May 1, 2019 by Brutalform

[afx]

4 hours ago, Brutalform said:

Well, you really are good at building them. 

When you do the thru bolt, are going to use bolts like Pro Techs PE style, or scratch build them? I’ve been incorporating them into my builds lately, from suspensions to oil pan and trans pan drain plugs. 

Thanks Tom.  The thru-bolt detail won't be formed bolts per se, just a piece of wire.  I may use some very small styrene hex rod.  I'll post photos when I get a chance.  I have/am using styrene and resin bolts.  I added a styrene bolt to the oil pan as a drain plug - photo pending.

I would like to get a hex punch set but they are pricey!

Edited May 1, 2019 by afx

[Dann Tier]

It has a VERY tough stance!!...it looks heavy as hell!!!

[Brutalform]

3 hours ago, afx said:

Thanks Tom.  The thru-bolt detail won't be formed bolts per se, just be a piece of wire.  I may use some very small styrene hex rod.  I'll post photos when I get a chance.  I have/am using styrene and resin bolts.  I added a styrene bolt to the oil pan as a drain plug - photo pending.

I would like to get a hex punch set but they are pricey!

I hear ya, JC. I just placed an order with ProTech and was planning on just buying some wheel valve stems, but ended up buying a bunch more. You know how that goes, I’m sure. 

[Straightliner59]

Nice work, JC! This thing looks just right.

[afx]

Thanks Dann & Daniel. 

As promised I’ll simulate the thru-bolt detail with 24 ga. wire (scales out to approx. ½” bolt).  I install it long to make threading it through the holes easier and then trim it to length during final assembly.  I could use .030” (0.8mm) styrene hex rod, that would scale out to approx. ¾” bolt, but frankly I can’t tell its hex shaped even with my opti-visor on!

This photo also shows the drain plug I installed in the oil pan.

Someone had pointed out that the steel wheels I was using appear the be from the '59 El Camino kit.  I pulled the wheels from my parts box so I didn't know the kit source. Can't have Chevy wheels on a Ford!  I grabbed a set of the out of the Revell T-bolt kit that should make things right again. 

[Karl LaFong]

Drop. Dead. Gorgeous!    I like the 289 mill, a welcome change from the usual 427's.

[Straightliner59]

When you get it finished, I'll match race you with my Chevy II!

[afx]

10 hours ago, Karl LaFong said:

Drop. Dead. Gorgeous!    I like the 289 mill, a welcome change from the usual 427's.

Thanks Keith, your great build kicked me in gear to get this one started.   I installed a 427 wedge in my '61 A/Gas and a 427 SOHC in my '65 A/FX, wanted to do something different on this build.

9 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

When you get it finished, I'll match race you with my Chevy II!

You're on Daniel!  What's hiding under the hood, a mouse or a rat?

Edited May 2, 2019 by afx

[Straightliner59]

3 hours ago, afx said:

Thanks Keith, your great build kicked me in gear to get this one started.   I installed a 427 wedge in my '61 A/Gas and a 427 SOHC in my '65 A/FX, wanted to do something different on this build.

You're on Daniel!  What's hiding under the hood, a mouse or a rat?

Blown Rat! I'm not saying what's under the "terrible towel"!