How to remove pin marks

[Scott Vinton]

I am building a Monogram 55 Ford F100 Street Rod. I am new to the finer details of modeling.  I have always just “put them together.

The bed of the truck has 5 pin marks that will definitely be visible when the truck is complete. 

There are also some on the inside of the cab roof.

I have big hands and getting in the tight spaces is challenging.

What is the best way to remove these without hurting the look of the truck?

I have a couple of pieces of pretty fine sand paper.  I also have a Dremel tool and can get attachments.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[StevenGuthmiller]

If they are raised and pronounced, I start with a Dremel small reamer bit to remove the majority of the material.

Next, I scrape with a curved X-acto blade, (not sure of the number) held perpendicular to the surface until the pin is almost imperceptible.

Then sand with fine sand paper.

 

If they are concave, they need to be filled.

 

 

Steve

 

 

[Modelbuilder Mark]

I use several different methods.

If it is a raised pin mark, I use an exacto to cut it down ,then sand smooth.

if it is sunken, my method will depend on how visible the repair will be.

If on a floorboard for example, I may simply flood the little indent with liquid putty (think surfacer primer) and once dry, sand level.

If the area will be a prominent surface, I may use liquid cement, and chopped up bits of sprue, preferably from the same kit, and make some sprue glus, fill the void, then once dry it will sand like the surrounding plastic. Another option is to dig it out a little, then use two part polyester putty (Bondo), but this requires more steps, including a good primer over the porous work area.

Basically, trial and error until you find what works for you.

[Tommy124]

  On 5/14/2019 at 6:04 AM, Modelbuilder Mark said:

I may simply flood the little indent with liquid putty (think surfacer primer) and once dry, sand level.

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Always wondered what non- rattle can surface primer was for...  Thanks for the tip, I will try this one out. Filling the concave pin marks with regular putty, followed by sanding is such a tedious process imho.

[espo]

There are many ways to attack this problem. The Xacto blade is a good place to start if the pin mark is raised. Xacto offers a blade that is much like a wood carver's chisel. This will get the pin mark down very close requiring very little sanding. Excel Hobby Blades Corp. offers a sanding tool that is about the size and shape of a large writing pen. The tool is spring loaded internally and allows you to change sanding bands that are much like a belt around the exterior of the tool. This allows you to move the belt as the sanding belt gets loaded with material. The belts are offered in several different grits and have many uses for getting into tight body curves such as removing mold lines on the body and around headlamps. Tamiya offers what they call Tamiya Putty and this can be used to fill indentation type pin marks, there are several such products out there that will do the same thing, Tamiya products just happen to be what I'm most familiar with.     

[Scott Vinton]

Thank you all.  Looks like I will be sneaking some new materials past my wife!

[Miatatom]

Ok Scott, here's my method. I bought a cheap electric toothbrush and several refill brushes. You have to remove the bristles from the heads. I used hemostats to grab each bundle of bristles and pull them out. I used .030 plastic stock to create small circles and stamped them out using a punch. I them glued them to the heads to create a flat surface. Next, I cut different lengths of plastic tubing and glued them to the heads. Cut another piece for the end and glued it on. Then I use padded double sided tape to stick different grit paper on the tips. Here are some pics. Makes sanding pin marks in a headliner a breeze. I use a brush with short bristles to remove paint in tight areas.

Edited May 26, 2019 by Miatatom

[BigTallDad]

  On 5/26/2019 at 9:41 PM, Miatatom said:

Ok Scott, here's my method. I bought a cheap electric toothbrush and several refill brushes. You have to remove the bristles from the heads. I used hemostats to grab each bundle of bristles and pull them out. I used .030 plastic stock to create small circles and stamped them out using a punch. I them glued them to the heads to create a flat surface. Next, I cut different lengths of plastic tubing and glued them to the heads. Cut another piece for the end and glued it on. Then I use padded double sided tape to stick different grit paper on the tips. Here are some pics. Makes sanding pin marks in a headliner a breeze. I use a brush with short bristles to remove paint in tight areas.

 

 

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That's the same method I use.

PLAN B: Flatten the head of a golf tee, add sandpaper, and use it in an electric drill.

[64Comet404]

I use a slightly cheaper version of the electric toothbrush idea. I use a hole punch to make a pile of sandpaper circles. I then use Gorilla Glue to attach the circles to the eraser end of some cheap, unused HB pencils. They work well for sanding down any raised pin marks; for recessed pin marks, I use CA glue and accelerator to fill them, and putty to finish.

[gtx6970]

Ive used fine sand paper with the adhesive back . use a hole punch to make some small 'pads' so to speak. stick them on a pencil eraser and have at it.

[StevenGuthmiller]

  On 5/27/2019 at 12:59 AM, gtx6970 said:

Ive used fine sand paper with the adhesive back . use a hole punch to make some small 'pads' so to speak. stick them on a pencil eraser and have at it.

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I sand them as well as a final step.

But a little more aggressive approach is necessary when dealing with good sized ones.

Some sand paper on an eraser will do the trick, but you had better have a couple of free hours and a good arm to deal with something like this.

 

 

Steve

 

[BigTallDad]

  On 5/27/2019 at 4:04 AM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I sand them as well as a final step.

But a little more aggressive approach is necessary when dealing with good sized ones.

Some sand paper on an eraser will do the trick, but you had better have a couple of free hours and a good arm to deal with something like this.

Steve

 

That's why I use an electric drill

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