AMT 1966 442 Convert.

[ewetwo]

This was a kit I bought that was started. Stripped it. Primed it with Duplicolor sandable primer. Painted one coat of special order Duplicolor GM Cascade Green Poly ($25 plus tax a can). My grandmother’s 1966 Delta 88 was that color. Loved it. First spray looked OK but I didn’t spray it too heavy figuring to light sand and spray on a second coat. Wait aa week and spray on second coat. Disaster hits.  Don’t know why. It’s a mess. I should have been happy with the first coat. Now. How long do I wait before it goes back into then purple pond? A week so it’s totally dry first?

[StevenGuthmiller]

The sooner the better!

I would have dropped it like a hot potato within minutes!

 

 

Steve

[Belugawrx]

I agree throw it in the pond now...paint should slide right off

[ewetwo]

Ok. Thanks Steve.Thanks Bruce.  In it goes.

 

Edited October 2, 2019 by ewetwo

[Bucky]

I agree with those two chaps. I'm wonderin' what happened to cause the mishap?

[StevenGuthmiller]

17 minutes ago, Bucky said:

I agree with those two chaps. I'm wonderin' what happened to cause the mishap?

Sprayed the last coat too heavy?

Obviously the previous coat lifted.

 

 

Steve

[ewetwo]

I always had a problem of spraying too heavy. So the first coat was light. I thought being the same brand primer and paint. It wouldn't be an issue. 

 

 

Edited October 2, 2019 by ewetwo

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 hours ago, ewetwo said:

I always had a problem of spraying too heavy. So the first coat was light. I thought being the same brand primer and paint. It wouldn't be an issue. 

 

 

Light coats are almost always better than heavy.

When you're dealing with lacquer paints, there are a lot of things that can go haywire if you spray too heavy.

 

 

Steve

[randyc]

I'm having this issue now with the Testors one coat lacquer.   Too much paint from the can for me I think.   It doesn't run - it pools and bubbles.   I'm just not good with cans or the lacquer apparently.   Good luck getting it sorted out - looks like it will be beautiful when done.

[ewetwo]

Well my 1966 Grand Prix went back into the purple pond also. I might better stick to the pre painted models like the pro shop kits. LOL

[Bob Ellis]

An airbrush with light coats should make painting better.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, ewetwo said:

Well my 1966 Grand Prix went back into the purple pond also. I might better stick to the pre painted models like the pro shop kits. LOL

'66 Grand Prix?

I assume that is a mis-print.

I'm guessing that you meant '65.

 

 

Steve

[ewetwo]

41 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

'66 Grand Prix?

I assume that is a mis-print.

I'm guessing that you meant '65.

 

 

Steve

Maybe. I'm not in my model room so I thought it was a 66.. The Grand Slam Pontiac. Sprayed it. Some spots only on the hood. So I removed the hood to soak and repaint it and that pulled a bit of paint off the top of one front fender. Tried to touch it up but then the paint ran down the side of the fender. Back into the pond. LOL I like to spray the hood in place so the color matches. I've done them separately before and they always look a bit off. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

41 minutes ago, ewetwo said:

Maybe. I'm not in my model room so I thought it was a 66.. The Grand Slam Pontiac. Sprayed it. Some spots only on the hood. So I removed the hood to soak and repaint it and that pulled a bit of paint off the top of one front fender. Tried to touch it up but then the paint ran down the side of the fender. Back into the pond. LOL I like to spray the hood in place so the color matches. I've done them separately before and they always look a bit off. 

Yes, the Grand Slam Pontiac is a '65.

There was never a '66 Grand Prix produced.

 

 

Steve

[tbill]

For what it’s worth, when I paint, I use the quick and close method. I’m probably 3-4 inches away, and go rather quickly, start to spray a couple inches before the ‘target’ and spray past a few inches. I’ve found that doing it this way, I can lay down a fairly wet coat with good coverage, and no runs/sags or solvent pops. Took me awhile to get the feel, but once you do, most times your only enemy will be dust.

hope this helps some.

[StevenGuthmiller]

19 minutes ago, tbill said:

For what it’s worth, when I paint, I use the quick and close method. I’m probably 3-4 inches away, and go rather quickly, start to spray a couple inches before the ‘target’ and spray past a few inches. I’ve found that doing it this way, I can lay down a fairly wet coat with good coverage, and no runs/sags or solvent pops. Took me awhile to get the feel, but once you do, most times your only enemy will be dust.

hope this helps some.

I agree wholeheartedly.

I hadn't thought about it as I've been doing it this way with spray cans forever without really thinking about it, but it is sound advice.

Being so used to doing it this way is quite probably the reason why it has taken me longer to master an air brush which requires a slower pass.

 

 

Steve

[randyc]

14 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I agree wholeheartedly.

I hadn't thought about it as I've been doing it this way with spray cans forever without really thinking about it, but it is sound advice.

Being so used to doing it this way is quite probably the reason why it has taken me longer to master an air brush which requires a slower pass.

 

 

Steve

And that may be my issue - the SPEED that I spray.  Thanks for tips guys.  

I recently got the 65 Grand Slam and the 2+2.   Looks like the 2+2 is missing the nose beak - if anyone has an extra...

Now back to the OLDs.  

 

[Snake45]

I think there's something wrong with this paint. Notice how it's done exactly the same thing on the metal can. 

It almost looks like one of those "hammertone" or textured paints they sell. 

If you want this color, try a can of Duplicolor Hampstead Green at any auto parts store. Shouldn't run more that about $8. 

[tbill]

I should also mention, in regards to painting the hood, when spraying metallic paint, to get a match you can get it without having the hood on the car, I have found I just need to spray in the same direction, example, if you paint the body from the trunk forward, paint the hood from the back to front, it’s been working for me doing it this way.

[Rider]

Sucks about the paint. Good luck with the recovery.

[ewetwo]

Thanks for the input. And Snake. I didn't even notice that the paint on the can crinkled also. So I would assume the paint is bad? I just bought it for $25 at O'Reilly's auto parts store 2 weeks ago. I have looked for light green paint at all the auto parts stores and there isn't any. Mostly dark colors except for silver and gold tones.

  

[randyc]

8 minutes ago, ewetwo said:

Thanks for the input. And Snake. I didn't even notice that the paint on the can crinkled also. So I would assume the paint is bad? I just bought it for $25 at O'Reilly's auto parts store 2 weeks ago. I have looked for light green paint at all the auto parts stores and there isn't any. Mostly dark colors except for silver and gold tones.

  

You're having issues like I am recently.  Maybe.  If it's bubbly, that is a different issue than if it's crazing or attacking the paint below and wrinkling.  

I think mine is weather (humidity) related.  maybe not completely, but partially.  I have painted cars for 30 years and never had as many issues as this year.  I also suspect newer "safer" paint formulations have something to do with paints.   that's my case and opinion.  And maybe too much paint (too slow passes)?

But on yours, a week between coats should have given the first coat time to gas out.   Or maybe too much time and it reacted?  What does the label say about recoats?  I've had that cause problems as well.  But a week???  Should have been fine.

 I always try to put on first coat of anything lightly to see if it's going to react with whatver is below, even if it's same brand/line.   Maybe too wet a coat and the solvents attacked the paint below.   I know it is very disheartening no matter what.

It's bizzare that there are some completely shiny smooth places.  Did you shake well?  IDK but hope you can fix it - this will be a beautiful model in that color.

[ewetwo]

Thanks for the input Randy. The can does't really give much info as to what's in it. It's a special order Duplicolor paint. The can says enamel, acrylic, lacquer and poly. I asked what poly meant and they told me it meant metallic. My first spray was light because as I was applying the first coat. I could see it begin to pool around the trim, door handles. emblems and the curves in the body. So I thought I was doing the right thing by stopping and then putting a second coat on later. Like I said. It looked beautiful for about 30 seconds. LOL

[Shambles]

I've had this issue a few times over the years. Sometimes I'd forget to wash the body first to get rid of any remaining mold release agents (Dawn dishwashing liquid is good). Depending on the temperature, sometimes I'll submerse the spray can in warm water for 20 - 30 mins, then shake vigorously for a couple of minutes.

[ewetwo]

5 hours ago, Shambles said:

I've had this issue a few times over the years. Sometimes I'd forget to wash the body first to get rid of any remaining mold release agents (Dawn dishwashing liquid is good). Depending on the temperature, sometimes I'll submerse the spray can in warm water for 20 - 30 mins, then shake vigorously for a couple of minutes.

The body was painted when I bought it and I stripped it in the purple pond. Then washed. Primered. Waited 3 weeks before spraying the first coat. Waited about 2 weeks before adding the second coat. My hobby room is in the basement but it's heated and maintains the heat around 70 degrees. I shook it for quite a while. But I did notice that it didn't spray as heavy as say Testors canned paint.  And it wasn't really covering well but pooling around the handles, side trim. Like it was really thin paint.

Edited October 4, 2019 by ewetwo