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DELIVERY DEUCE


mrm

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10 hours ago, David G. said:

I've been watching this one for a while now and each time I check in I'm more impressed. 

Amazing work!

David G.

Thank you for the kind words.

8 hours ago, Koellefornia Kid said:

Awesome detail work!

Thank you.

 

2 hours ago, CabDriver said:

This is coming together really nicely!  Can I ask who makes the photo-etched bolts?  

Thank you. 
I honestly don’t know. I was supposed to move out of the house and packed everything in boxes. Then I had the itch to build something and pulled whatever was in the top boxes. Fortunately for me this box with aftermarket stuff was right on top in the box I opened. Everything in it is without packages. If I had to take a wild guess, they may be from Pro Tech. 

270E350C-F525-416B-9D4A-2204471A2B72.jpeg

Edited by mrm
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I had a lot of stuff to deal with today, so not much bench time, but I still managed to do some work. The most time consuming was to polish the body. Wet sanding, rubbing out and polishing took a while, but well worth it. Windows were also attached.

C0atoP.jpg

 

The only other thing I could do, was to scratch build a fuel log, which will go on the firewall. It probably would have been easier to make it the other way around - first attaching the fuel lines to the log on the firewall AND THEN running them to the carbs, but oh well......this is what happens when you're inpatient. 

Two pieces of plastic, two photoetched bolts, one machined aluminum fitting and some wire.

fuQqDN.jpg

 

Everything together with some alu paint

ZGqEd8.jpg

 

Tomorrow I'll tackle the interior. Not sure yet what to do with it, but I have some ideas.

Thanks for looking and stay tuned.

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So, I pretty much finished he entire interior today. The only thing left to do is the headliner.

I decided to go with the bench seat from Revell's '32 3-window kit. The door panels from the Tudor kit were cut at the door line and the rear half discarded. Then the panels and the seat were sprayed with SEM color, which they call "Camel". When I use SEM paint, which gives perfect leather appearance, I spray it straight from the spray-can onto the bare plastic. I found it works best this way, with no primer. 

n1pqnJ.jpg

 

The sedan's floor was cut right in front of the rear seat and then covered with my favorite WallMart "german carpet".  Pedals are from the kit. 

1SUoDM.jpg

 

The cargo floor was cut from a wood piece from the doll house section of Hobby Lobby. It comes grooved as on the picture and I honestly have no idea what it's meant for.

ztaNP3.jpg

 

After I cut it to size, I stained it.

Ymllvd.jpg

 

And then I fitted in the grooves a very thin aluminum tubing

6l71cC.jpg

 

The seat received a back panel made from plastic sheet covered with BMF and the cargo floor received a couple of coats of Tamiya clear.

KaYCWb.jpg

 

Then I felt like a kid and had some fun

QRqPOn.jpg

 

So, here is a little story:

I love stickers. But I don't like them on my cars. I have two boys who love stickers even more than me. And they always wanted to put stickers on my Corvette. So I made a deal with them, that everywhere we go, they can get a sticker and put it on the Vette, but only on the backside of the hood. 

So this is a little tribute to that tradition. Ironically, nobody will see it once the model is complete, pretty much like on my 1:1 car. 

4iMkXE.jpg

 

The door panels received white metal door pulls from Pro Tech (I think, but I'm not sure), which a pretty crude, but with the help of a Molotow marker do the trick. Some window pe switches were also added. 

MfaaD8.jpg

 

Everything together

rlt7r0.jpg

 

Thanks for looking and stay tuned...

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6 hours ago, Lowlife ! ! said:

 

What a love!y 32, great colour choice and you have such a clean building style !

Love all the little details, and the stickers are a cool touch !

Thank you. 
The stickers and floor are still somewhat visible trough the rear window if you shine light in it. 

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Today I pretty much made everything I needed to unable me to put the body on the chassis altho I am not doing it yet.

I painted the inside of the front grille lat black  and then applied Detail Master (I think) photo etched radiator material painted gunmetal. Now the grille shell is ready for the MCG  photo etched grille.

eII5Re.jpg

 

On to the headliner.... I cut a piece of sheet styrene from a template I made with masking tape of the inside of the roof. Then I took whatever scrap pieces of square plastic rod I had to create some kind of design, so the headliner is not just a plain flat piece.

qRZZAF.jpg

 

Next I needed a rearview mirror. Decided to use the one that comes with the MCG detail set. Four pieces for that sucker! My eyes are still hurting.

ktzZYK.jpg

 

The headliner was sprayed same "Camel" color as the seat and doors. A dome light was made by gluing a photoetched piece, which I believe was meant to be a brake pedal and then 5 min epoxy was dropped on top of it to create the domed clear lens. It is now ready to be attached to the body, together with the completed rearview mirror.

D209Pt.jpg

 

This puts me on the final stretch with this model, which would be the my very first for the 2019 year. 

Thanks for looking and stay tuned.

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2 hours ago, Flat32 said:

I especially appreciate the choice of a Flathead engine for this righteous build and the application of your detailing skills to it.

Thank you. I decided to go with a flathead engine, because I thought it would suit the wheels best. This is the very first time I am building a flathead, so it took me considerable time to research what needs to be done and how. I attempted to make side angled sparkplug boots and I have to say that I am not totally pleased with the results. But it’s part of the learning curve I guess. I can tell you one thing for sure tho. It’s not going to be my last flattie. I love the look of it. 

 

35 minutes ago, gman said:

The parts, custom touches and workmanship are all impressive- I'll be watching this come together.

Thank you for the kind words. I hope to have this Deuce finished in a couple of days. I still have not decided if to leave the grille shiny or to paint it to match the wheels and engine. Other than that, I just have the rear shocks, beehive filter, the radiator hoses and the shiny things left, like lights, door handles etc. The problem is that I have all sorts of things to do the next few days, which cut up my time. So I sneak an hour here and there. But I’ll get it done. 

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Now a question for everyone. I need your opinions. Should the grille stay all chrome or should it be yellow, like the wheels and engine?

Any and all opinions welcome. 

Edited by mrm
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You might consider the original 32 Ford color.  It wasn't chrome, sort of a gray with a chrome looking stainless border part. Most repro grilles are polished stainless and while they look just fine, are belly button.  Yellow matching the wheels would give it more of a street rod look, but with the wire wheels, banjo steering wheel and Flathead engine perhaps a lean toward a more traditional hot rod look might be worth considering.  Just a thought.

Edited by Flat32
added banjo
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1 hour ago, Flat32 said:

You might consider the original 32 Ford color.  It wasn't chrome, sort of a gray with a chrome looking stainless border part. Most repro grilles are polished stainless and while they look just fine, are belly button.  Yellow matching the wheels would give it more of a street rod look, but with the wire wheels, banjo steering wheel and Flathead engine perhaps a lean toward a more traditional hot rod look might be worth considering.  Just a thought.

^^ this

If you are using a 2 piece photo etched grille insert (MCG), brushed bars and polished surround would look very classy. Bonus points if you use the 3rd piece, the lower crank hole portion as well.

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2 hours ago, Flat32 said:

You might consider the original 32 Ford color.  It wasn't chrome, sort of a gray with a chrome looking stainless border part. Most repro grilles are polished stainless and while they look just fine, are belly button.  Yellow matching the wheels would give it more of a street rod look, but with the wire wheels, banjo steering wheel and Flathead engine perhaps a lean toward a more traditional hot rod look might be worth considering.  Just a thought.

I was kinda leaning toward the all silver look too. Thanks for your input. 

 

28 minutes ago, gman said:

^^ this

If you are using a 2 piece photo etched grille insert (MCG), brushed bars and polished surround would look very classy. Bonus points if you use the 3rd piece, the lower crank hole portion as well.

Yes, that’s the grille I am going to use. It is funny that you mention the crank hole, as I was thinking that I should definitely add it too. In my case the reasoning was that I’ve never used it in the past, but now it is going on for sure. 

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5 minutes ago, mrm said:

Yes, that’s the grille I am going to use. It is funny that you mention the crank hole, as I was thinking that I should definitely add it too. In my case the reasoning was that I’ve never used it in the past, but now it is going on for sure. 

Traditional powerplant in a traditional looking rod- the icing on the cake would be a traditional grille insert.

The "V" shape isn't hard to achieve on the grille insert, but takes a little finesse to get the same angles into the crank insert and have it fit under the surround.

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8 minutes ago, 1930fordpickup said:

First I want to say this looks great. I love the color of the wheels just not sure if the grill matching in the same color would not be a bit to much. 

Thank you. Your input is appreciated. I was kinda thinking the same thing. For some reason, I feel that if the grille is painted it would have to match the firewall on a rod with no side hoods. I was contemplating about painting the grille same maroon as the body, leaving the “chrome” surround. But then decided that it would have looked cool if the wheels were some kind of silver, so that option got scratched. I was very hesitant about yellow grille and I am glad everyone is pointing me away from it. Thank you guys.

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On 11/22/2019 at 11:08 PM, gman said:

Traditional powerplant in a traditional looking rod- the icing on the cake would be a traditional grille insert.

The "V" shape isn't hard to achieve on the grille insert, but takes a little finesse to get the same angles into the crank insert and have it fit under the surround.

I hear you about the bend in that little piece. But hey, it’s only 11:30pm here, I have all night. ?

after all that crank hole talk, my heart sunk, as I found out that I have four different MCG grilles and no crank holes! ?

Took a little digging, but I found one. ?

Brushed insert, polished surround with a crank hole it is then. 
thanks for everyone’s input. 

Edited by mrm
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About that grille..........

I don't know how finicky one finds bending the crank-hole piece, but cutting the hole in the grille bars without bending anything out of shape was a biatch. 

The cut up grille attached with some 5 min epoxy to the grille shell.

QWDmlR.jpg

 

I tried to polish the photoetched grille surround piece provided with the MCG set, but I was not happy with the results. There was no distinct difference with the brushed part of the grille and the piece was flat. So I visited my local WalMart across the street for inspiration. 26 gauge shiny copper wire with chrome finish seemed something worth trying. Nine point three yards for two bucks beats any aftermarket offering any day, so I decided to give it a try.

7HJjBw.jpg

 

Next I needed a "jig" to curve the wire to the proper shape. For the purpose I sanded a stock grille piece from the kit to the point where it would sink in the grille shell enough to give me the inner edge space to form the wire to. 

It came out pretty good I think. 

HuafKl.jpg

 

I am more than happy with the end result. 

Now I have an honest traditional grille, with brushed bars, chrome rounded surround, crank-hole and all. 

4iHoPJ.jpg

 

Thanks for looking and stay tuned....

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Very nice grille job, but what's the license plate doing behind it???  IMHO I'd opt for a state that doesn't require a front plate or put it in front of the grille. Seems like it actually detracts behind there.  In real life it would take a major effort to stick one in there, might not be legal and certainly block air flow to the over heating prone souped up Flathead.

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