68 Chevelle SS 396

[Nox]

Okay, first model in over 20 years (literally since I was a teenager) and also my first true post on here. I'm super excited about this build as it is kinda breaking me back into the hobby. Before, I had never really taken the time to do things the right way (like throwing the whole thing together with a glob of glue and drowning it in paint) so let's just call this my first legitimate build...ever. Decided on the Chevelle because my dad had one as his first car, and I've always had a thing for them as a result. There's a lot more to that whole story but for now, we'll stick to the build. Also, if my pictures turned out awful, I don't have an actual camera so they are the best I can do using my phone. Any and all criticism is appreciated and encouraged. I'm here to learn, don't worry about hurting my feelings.

I started piecing it together the other night with some makeshift supplies...nowhere near what I needed. I was a bit heavy-handed on the glue in a couple areas, mainly the engine block halves as they were the first components I fitted. Not too overdone though, at least nothing that can't be knocked out with some sanding. So far I have only glued a few partial component groups which will all be getting sprayed as individual units (suspension, radiator, engine block, etc) with detail work being glued individually/hand-painted.

Also due to poor tool selection (better supplies coming this week, will be better equipped to do further work at that time instead of just using "what I have on hand") I ended up snapping the rear sway bar. I managed to piece it back together with a minimal seam, and plan to very gently scrape/sand the slight glue seam. The repair seam is visible just under the tweezer blade. I thought I did a decent job at repairing it, but I still want to try to knock that out before painting.

I dry-fitted the groups together to see how things looked.

More to come!

[videocast36]

I know exactly how you feel. looks great so far. there is tons of masters on this forum that will help you make a pretty good model. good luck...

[GTJUNIOR]

I think you need to look at your radiator and fan shroud. Seems to me, they should be facing the engine and not the grill. Just an observation.

[espo]

Welcome back to model cars. After 20 years away I'm sure you have noticed an improvement in what we have to work with today. 

[mustang1989]

Lookin' good so far Logan. The radiator shroud/ core support does need to be flipped around the other way but that's an easy fix. Lookin' forward to more and BTW.....welcome to the forum!! 

[Nox]

Yeah I work nightshift and got home at 5am, decided to stay up and play. That's what lack of sleep gets you lol. I didn't even notice that this morning hahaha.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Just a suggestion as you round up supplies.

Get yourself some liquid cement such as Plastistruct "Plastic Weld".

You can eliminate the "glue blob" issue, and this stuff will cement your parts together almost instantly.

No waiting for glue to dry.

It does require both surfaces to be bare plastic, but then again, so does regular model cement.

 

Some other glues that you might want to investigate include some CA glue like "Plasti-Zap", a 2 part epoxy like JB Weld "Clear Weld" and possibly a UV setting glue like "Laser Bond".

All of these are extremely useful in varying circumstances.

Then of course, every modeler should have some Elmer's glue and possibly some clear parts glue like "Testors Clear Parts Cement" on hand.

Just a few suggestions to help you get started on supplies.

 

 

Steve

Edited December 1, 2019 by StevenGuthmiller

[Bucky]

I think you have chosen a good kit to start on. The thing about flipping the radiator/shroud assembly shows just how useful "dry-fitting" subassemblies can be during the build process!

[LL3 Model Worx]

9 hours ago, Nox said:

Okay, first model in over 20 years (literally since I was a teenager) and also my first true post on here. I'm super excited about this build as it is kinda breaking me back into the hobby. Before, I had never really taken the time to do things the right way (like throwing the whole thing together with a glob of glue and drowning it in paint) so let's just call this my first legitimate build...ever. Decided on the Chevelle because my dad had one as his first car, and I've always had a thing for them as a result. There's a lot more to that whole story but for now, we'll stick to the build. Also, if my pictures turned out awful, I don't have an actual camera so they are the best I can do using my phone. Any and all criticism is appreciated and encouraged. I'm here to learn, don't worry about hurting my feelings.

I started piecing it together the other night with some makeshift supplies...nowhere near what I needed. I was a bit heavy-handed on the glue in a couple areas, mainly the engine block halves as they were the first components I fitted. Not too overdone though, at least nothing that can't be knocked out with some sanding. So far I have only glued a few partial component groups which will all be getting sprayed as individual units (suspension, radiator, engine block, etc) with detail work being glued individually/hand-painted.

Also due to poor tool selection (better supplies coming this week, will be better equipped to do further work at that time instead of just using "what I have on hand") I ended up snapping the rear sway bar. I managed to piece it back together with a minimal seam, and plan to very gently scrape/sand the slight glue seam. The repair seam is visible just under the tweezer blade. I thought I did a decent job at repairing it, but I still want to try to knock that out before painting.

I dry-fitted the groups together to see how things looked.

More to come!

The repair looks pretty good... you could always clip the sway bar off entirely and bend some wire for a new one and a little dab of CA glue and your good.

 

[Nox]

I think I'll just try to polish it up for now but I did see some sweet custom springs made using coiled wire on another build. Definitely something I'll consider going forward.

12 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Just a suggestion as you round up supplies.

Get yourself some liquid cement such as Plastistruct "Plastic Weld".

You can eliminate the "glue blob" issue, and this stuff will cement your parts together almost instantly.

No waiting for glue to dry.

It does require both surfaces to be bare plastic, but then again, so does regular model cement.

 

Some other glues that you might want to investigate include some CA glue like "Plasti-Zap", a 2 part epoxy like JB Weld "Clear Weld" and possibly a UV setting glue like "Laser Bond".

All of these are extremely useful in varying circumstances.

Then of course, every modeler should have some Elmer's glue and possibly some clear parts glue like "Testors Clear Parts Cement" on hand.

Just a few suggestions to help you get started on supplies.

 

 

Steve

Steve, I should have clarified earlier, I'm using Testors model cement, not actual "glue", per se. But I do understand what you're saying. I will definitely pick up some of the clear parts glue prior to the glass going in, as I've heard there can be a lot of unsightly issues if done using the wrong thing. I also know I need to get some type of CA though as I don't currently have any, and I know from experience application of model cement to painted parts gets ugly fast. In the past I had always tried to keep an unpainted section of the various parts I was attaching and just hoping for the best with the cement. Since using anything other than cement is a knew arena for me, is CA the way to go with painted parts, or would an epoxy be a better choice? I'm holding off on further "building" until I get some base layer painting done on the groups I already have put together. Just looking for ideas moving forward.

12 hours ago, Bucky said:

I think you have chosen a good kit to start on. The thing about flipping the radiator/shroud assembly shows just how useful "dry-fitting" subassemblies can be during the build process!

Yeah THAT could have been a problem!

[StevenGuthmiller]

15 hours ago, Nox said:

Steve, I should have clarified earlier, I'm using Testors model cement, not actual "glue", per se.

If you're talking about the stuff in the red tube, that's the stuff that I was talking about.

The old tube cement is not particularly easy to work with in comparison to some other glues.

The Testors tube cement is messy to work with and takes quite some time to set.

A liquid cement works by capillary action.

You can hold or clamp your parts together, apply a little if the liquid cement to the joint and it will seep between the parts and bond in the matter of a few seconds if the joint is tight.

Of course, in my experience, Liquid cement works best on preliminary assemblies before paint.

After painting, I prefer CA glue or epoxy.

 

 

Steve

[LL3 Model Worx]

17 hours ago, Nox said:

 

Steve, I should have clarified earlier, I'm using Testors model cement, not actual "glue", per se. But I do understand what you're saying. I will definitely pick up some of the clear parts glue.

If you want some good easy to use liquid cement, either make the hour pilgrimage to Hobby Lobby or get that prime account ready.

My entire building experience changed exponentially when I stumbled upon Tamiya extra thin in my local Hobby Lobby.

It goes a very long way and is very easy to work with as it has a tiny brush built into the cap.

Also, for clear glue I like to use Crystal FX. Also bought at hobby lobby, it comes in a syringe with a fine needle point and a few different viscosities.

Both of these adhesives have changed my building and my overall experience by leaps and bounds.

As far as other stuff, I frequent the Dollar stores for super glues.

The only place I seem to be able to get the orange bottle of Tamiya (thick liquid, with a broader nail polish sorta brush) is ordering from Japan. But its excellent stuff in certain circumstances.

Other glues I keep on hand.

Elmer's, Tight bond, Loctite 5min epoxy, Aleenes Tacky glue, and the trusty Testors red/blue tubes.(I have quite the collection from childhood that has somehow remained viable)

The red is slow setting and strong once dry but also harder to work with.

The blue is just on my bench for decoration, as that stuff is beyond useless other than smelling like chemically Lemon.

 

[Nox]

Good to know, guys. I will definitely put an order in.

[David G.]

Welcome back to the hobby Logan, looks like you're off to a good start.

As you have seen by the responses above, there are a lot of very skilled, kindhearted builders in this community who are willing to offer guidance and advice.

David G.

[Nox]

Been a minute since I've been able to do much on account of working a lot and last week being tied up deer hunting. I did get an order together and now have at least some proper items to work with. I have a designated modeling mat, utility knife with multiple blades, various tweezers and forceps, assortment of wet/dry sandpaper (120-5000 grit) and some Vallejo plastic putty. I got Tamiya spray cans of fine gray primer and TS-6 matte black for when painting begins.

I'm also going to try (this may have been done by someone already) using the purple Scotch delicate surface painters tape when taping off. I know people seem to swear by the Tamiya tape, but I kinda wanna see firsthand how this stuff does. If anyone has already tried it, feel free to share your own results, but I kinda wanna see firsthand results on my own as well.

Due to cold weather, and not having an indoor painting area, I'm going to be left with the old "spray cans in a pan of hot water and quick shooting the parts outside" painting method. Probably going to hit the frame or interior first since they are less noticeable if something doesn't go well. Hopefully will have some more to post within the next week.

[Nox]

I got the primer coat done, left a lot of the pieces still attached to the sprue sheets but will most likely touch them up by hand if needed once clipped. I don't have any holding clips (on my list of things to get), but the primer dried so quickly that I could flip everything shortly after spraying one side and hit the reverse sides without leaving any marks. Overall I'm pretty satisfied with how it's turned out so far. Also, I think my wife is about to kill me for doing this in the basement...spray box definitely needs to go on that list of things to get.

[Nox]

Also while I'm thinking about it...in regard to sanding after the primer coat. I know the body will definitely get it (will probably give it a second primer coat, after inspection it appears a little thin especially on the bottom edges and around the fenders), but is it recommended to do it anywhere else? I'm planning to spray the frame and floorpan, but I may start detailing the engine and whatnot tonight. Is there any additional prep I should do prior, or should they be fine as is. The primer can't be scratched off with a fingernail, so I'm assuming it is cured. Thoughts or suggestions?

[GeeBee]

Looks like you need to sand down those mold lines on the roof panel.

[espo]

You're moving right along here. My suggestion on the body and parts prep prior to color coats. On the parts on still on the tree's and such, look for the mold parting lines. These really show up with a color coat and or a gloss coat. Sanding the body will show you any imperfections in the body and of course the mold lines again. I usually will apply a second light coat of primer and then sand with a pad somewhere in the 2800 to 3000 range.  When you're satisfied with the surface of all parts re-scribe  all of the door and trunk body lines since there will be a certain amount of primer build up in these areas. I would also lightly run a good #11 blade along any body trim moldings that you're going to foil or add any type of chrome paint too at a later date. This will help make the parting lines easy to find after the color coats of paint.   

[Nox]

Thanks guys. I didn't even notice the mold line on the roof until the primer went on. I will give everything another once-over and get to sanding anything else I find.

[Nox]

Mold lines sanded.

 

[Nazz]

  Looking good so far Logan. I 'm definitely fallowing this one.

[GeeBee]

5 hours ago, Nox said:

Mold lines sanded.

 

That's much better, I'll admit I've missed mold lines sometimes until the gray primer has been applied. 

[LL3 Model Worx]

8 hours ago, GeeBee said:

That's much better, I'll admit I've missed mold lines sometimes until the gray primer has been applied. 

Heck I've missed them until my model has been on the shelf for 6 months and I look at it and see a glaring mold line right on the front end between the headlights!! 

Almost made me put it back in its box... but I left it there as a reminder, to never stop looking.

[Nox]

Yeah I know what I'm looking for now and I've started finding quite a few on noticable areas of parts. The whole radiator had one right across the top edge and the cap. That was tricky to sand down without getting into the cap itself, since it's only about a millimeter thick to begin with. 1000 grit and easy does it worked it down nice and smooth though. I'm going through things with a fine tooth comb now to get anything which would be visible.

My Tamiya semigloss black should be here today, so I'll be able to put some paint down on the suspension and whatnot. Going to try to do my second primer coat on the body today also and maybe get into some actual assembly.