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Posted

I've acquired a few old annuals with decals applied directly to bare plastic. I've read in various places that water may or may not work.

What do you like to use for safe decal removal that is not sanding?

Charlie Larkin

Posted
5 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

Just an untested theory here : Apply some decal setting solution to the decals --- maybe that'll soften them enough to rub them off ? 

Not a bad idea. Easy, reasonably safe to apply. I'd be willing to try it on a couple and see what happens.

Charlie Larkin

Posted

I'd imagine that , the more-aggressive the solution ( i.e. , solution for surfaces with compound curves , small details , etc. ) , the better the potential results .

Posted

A fairly mild abrasive cleaner (on this side of the pond its called cif) and someone elsesonly leaves very mild scratching on the surface (or an old one, lol) toothbrush. It can then be polished back to smooth plastic fairly quickly as it

Posted

Haven't tried it in years but I used to use plain old masking tape pressed down firmly then pulled off.  It removed most of the decal and after a couple applications all but the tiniest pieces in recesses and panel lines were removed.

Posted

Micro Set says decal remover on the bottle but I think the Micro Sol works faster.

2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I discovered last year that scraping with a thumbnail under hot running water works very well. 

I can see where that would work well...

Posted

I use plain old Scotch Tape. Sometimes just laying it down on the decal with no pressure will pull it off .

Use minimum pressure on the tape and pull off  Slowly !!!! 

 

 

Posted

If on bare plastic, then Snake's method works well (under warm water scrape with a fingernail, or even a stiff bristle brush).   Also, any of the decal setting solutions will soften the clear film without attackign plastic. Masking or Scotch tape should also work, and since there is no paint there, no worries about lifting the paint with the decal.

Waterslide decal is simply thin plastic film, which clings to the surface it is applied to.  While there will be some water-soluble glue under it, the glue itself is not the main thing that holds the decal on the surface.

If I was going to do this, I would first use the masking tape technique. Then, if some film is still left on the model, I would use the warm water and scraping technique.  If that still doesn't get it all off, I would use the decal setting solution technique.  At this point, the decal should be completely removed.  But if some decal is still remaining, I have an ace up my sleeve:  I would rub the remaining film with a paper towel or a rag moistened with some 99% IPA (Isopropyl alcohol).  91%will likely work too.  And alcohol should not affect styrene.

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