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Posted

Painted the body today. Airbrushed decanted, then thinned too much, Testors orange. Covered well but came out really flat. Not sure if clear coat can save it. Painted the chassis and interior bits last week. Engine will be from another kit so some test fitting will be in order.

IMG_1662.JPG

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

After two weeks of curing and a bit of scrubbing with a Scotchbrite pad, the paint job looks good enough to try clear coating it. The hood got dropped in the purple lake 30 seconds after a crappy paint application. I need to hit it with another coat or two before I can proceed.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well I'll definitely follow this build as I have the late '70's release of this kit (Snakebite) yet to be built.

That's a really neat diorama you've created. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Got the interior completed. Still need to paint the hood. Waiting for dryer weather. It is winter in western Oregon. It might be awhile.

68 Shelby interior.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

Bill, I  was born and raised in this weather.  It never stopped me from painting.  ?

Of course, now I have a spray booth in the house, as well as a dehydrator if needed.  But it never stopped me before. ?

Posted
8 hours ago, Sam I Am said:

Bill, I  was born and raised in this weather.  It never stopped me from painting.  ?

Of course, now I have a spray booth in the house, as well as a dehydrator if needed.  But it never stopped me before. ?

Sam do you monitor humidity when you paint? I have had some experiences with a nice glossy paint job "blushing" flat when drying in high humidity. I hear a number of members mention food dehydrators. My problem is I am simply running out of space for additional hobby equipment. My new mini lathe has maxed me out.

Posted

I'm painting indoors w a vented booth, and have occasional issues w blushing after squirting lacquer paints .

Your mustang collection is cool ! This ones gonna be a showstopper in orange 

Posted

Blushing is easy to fix, as long as it's not crazing.

Shoot some clear or polish. Problem solved.

I don't worry about blushing, I find that the paint levels out better when it does.

Posted
1 hour ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Blushing is easy to fix, as long as it's not crazing.

Shoot some clear or polish. Problem solved.

I don't worry about blushing, I find that the paint levels out better when it does.

Patrick, It does not appear to be crazing. After I scrubbed the paint job with a toothbrush, it is fairly flat. Not as rough as orange peel which is why I have not dunked it in the purple lake.  The biggest issue is that I am sure I thinned the paint too much before spraying. It am hoping for some confidence in knowing that clear will take care of it before I put all the effort into detailing the body.

Posted

Blushing comes from the moisture in the air, or temperature is too cold outside. 

Like fogging on the windshield, only it's trapped in the paint. 

After it was completely dried, I've sprayed clear over it and never had it come back after that.

Posted
1 hour ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Blushing comes from the moisture in the air, or temperature is too cold outside. 

Like fogging on the windshield, only it's trapped in the paint. 

After it was completely dried, I've sprayed clear over it and never had it come back after that.

Good to know. I will be brave then.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

After rescuing enough liquid paint under the jello in the jar of decanted Testors orange, I got the hood repainted. I hope clear can bring life into this dull of a paint job because now I am out.

68 Shelby hood painted..JPG

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

This project has given me some drama. Shot the dull flat enamel hood with some Testors Wet Look clear and got foam trapped under the too heavily applied clear. A few days later I got the clear lacquer off with a short soak in some 91% alcohol. It did not affect the surface of the enamel orange but the orange now wants to let go of the white Tamiya primer here and there. A few touch ups with a peach colored sharpie and it is barely noticeable. Brushed on some Future and hopefully that will seal everything down. Since the hood appears to be saved for the moment, I got brave and applied some BMF to the body. The orange on the body has the same borderline adhesion to the primer. Anyway, I got the window frames and the side markers done. I also started on correcting the kit's lame engine compartment by working on grafting in one from a 67 Mustang which has the correct shock towers and such. Comments welcome.

BMF front.JPG

BMF rear.JPG

67 engine bay into 68 chassis.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

Glad to see you back on these Bill. 

Honestly,  I can't see any flaws in the paint from where I sit....but that is 85 miles away. ?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

After managing to add BMF, panel line detail and some miraculous Molotow application, the paint is hanging in there with minimal touch ups. After rechecking my reference photos, I noticed the kit has no rocker trim that the 1:1 has. I had to figure out a way to add it without screwing up the paint on the rockers. Most all adhesives have some sort of solvent which was way too risky to use to put on a very thin strip of evergreen. Testors window maker could work but mine is old and not very thin any more. Since the whole body is soon to get painted with Future, I figured I would use it as an adhesive for such a light piece. It worked fantastic with no boo boos on the paint. After a day to cure I applied BMF to simulate the trim. It turned out reasonably decent.

IMG_1940.JPG

IMG_1939.JPG

Posted
11 hours ago, Sledsel said:

Looking great!

Be sure to get the resin tail light panel for it.

Thank you for the suggestion. This build has had enough of a challenge already that I'll just run with the kit tail panel.

Tail panel mock up.JPG

  • Like 1

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