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'27 T Traditional Hot Rod


SpeedShift

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4 hours ago, TopherMcGinnis said:

MCW paints are great. I've used their lacquer with great results. Their factory colors are spot on. I like Createx paints as well. I painted the Chevelle with MCW lacquer Tahitian Turquoise and the bike with Createx(can't recall the name right off).

20221222_215845.jpg

I've heard MCW 's line of enamels is very good as well.

They have a hardening additive to speed the drying time, and their own gloss, which according to some isn't needed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
27 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

They've been available off and on in old-school resin just about forever.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jimmy-Flintstone-1927-Ford-Roadster-Resin-Body-175-/200810513421?_ul=IL

Thanks for the heads up. I am aware that it has been available from many resin guys over the years to varying degrees of quality. I even got one myself at one point, but I'd love to have a well done body, preferably with an interior.

This build is over 15 years old, and I've grown less satisfied with the exaggerated proportions (first scratchbuilt frame) and weak (single leaf) suicide front end. Maybe I should just take this apart and give it a do over. (as if I didn't have 8k other projects floating in my head, much less redoing a completed one haha)

image.png.fe6f93d4e784964024caf2348962d58b.png image.png.892e2480c2f2908ac43994f40c274b1f.png

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Posted (edited)
On 4/4/2024 at 1:59 PM, Mr. Metallic said:

Thanks for the heads up. I am aware that it has been available from many resin guys over the years to varying degrees of quality. I even got one myself at one point, but I'd love to have a well done body, preferably with an interior.

This build is over 15 years old, and I've grown less satisfied with the exaggerated proportions (first scratchbuilt frame) and weak (single leaf) suicide front end. Maybe I should just take this apart and give it a do over. (as if I didn't have 8k other projects floating in my head, much less redoing a completed one haha)

image.png.fe6f93d4e784964024caf2348962d58b.png image.png.892e2480c2f2908ac43994f40c274b1f.png

"Maybe I should just take this apart and give it a do over."

Sometimes that is a good alternative to breathe life back into a build that you lose interest in.

I currently have at least five "in progress" builds that have been set aside for over ten years, including my first foray back into car models after doing primarily military aircraft.

My first foray into car model building - since age 11 back in 1964, was an attempted conversion of an AMT '33 Deuce ZZ Top Eliminator kit that I saw on a used kit table at the LHS.

Was well into converting it into a radical chopped Pierson coupe style Salt Flats racer.

As I saw more overall deficiencies in my handiwork, or saw better alternatives in the improving aftermarket details, - it got shelved.

Same for two modified '25 T Lakesters....... every time I collected more accurate historic detail references, the builds got put in the "maybe later" box. 

You've got some good-looking components here to work with, engine, wheels and tires, body shell ( I love the '27 T) so maybe drop them on a real cute shorter Z'd model A frame ?

 

Edited by SpeedShift
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Posted (edited)
On 4/4/2024 at 1:20 PM, Mr. Metallic said:

Glad to see you back on this one

Wish we could get a 27 T roadster body. Hey 3D guys?

Thanks Criag, I have a habit of setting aside a project when I bump up against a problem, the bad thing is, "hanger rash" as they say in the RC plane biz.

Repeated handling of an in-progress build over time takes a toll, and I've broken the tie rod and steering arms and put a blemish on more than one project, 

while trying to find a fix.

Most often the paint job suffers.

 

Edited by SpeedShift
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Took some time to add a few things, added distributor and wiring for the flathead engine, trial fit the windshield frame and wheels on disc backing plates, dashboard interior fitting and steering column.

27 T 1.jpg

27 T 2.jpg

27 T 3.jpg

27 T flathead engine 1.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Zippi said:

I'm really diggin the flatty.  What color is that on the chrome parts?  Looks nice. 

I've been using a light spray of Alclad chrome or aluminum over a black gloss undercoat, but handling the chrome parts during fit up tends to tarnish them.

I'm now using AK super chrome which is really good stuff.

The air cleaners and little moon hub caps are metal aftermarket parts.

 

Edited by SpeedShift
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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Getting close to finishing this one.

Frustrating story time: Paint

After taking a close look at the paint finish on the body, I had to decide if I could live with it and proceed to finish this one.

It doesn't show in the pictures, but the first paint job had so much tiny pitting from the Testors rattle can paint frothing up along the raised body panel lines, I ended up wet sanding the pitting and putting on another coat. That second coat was better - but still not very good, the paint frothed up again - so I wet sanded some more and tried a third coat but this time only after decanting the paint and letting it settle down and gas off in a jar, and then airbrushing rather than spraying direct from the can.  

Third try was better, but after wet sanding and polishing the blemishes, the raised detail by now was pretty much gone and worse...inconsistent overall, and close inspection of the surface revealed a lot tiny scratches that just would not polish out.

Every time I looked at the paint job ......I imagined myself looking at this project in the future - and seeing nothing but the imperfections.

So, I pulled out a "backup" resin body (a Jimmy Flintstone), with idea to transfer the interior tub from the first body shell to a new resin body, and if there was enough paint left in the can, I could try and get a better finish by decanting and airbrushing the backup resin body. 

Surprise, the backup resin body was just different enough in dimension from the original body (All American Resin) that the interior tub would not fit.

So, while I primed and painted the new body shell, I scratch built a second interior with a few modifications to fit the new back up body (not as hard a task as I thought since I had scratch built the first interior - so it was just a matter of copying the first interior and trial fitting it to the second body),

Took only two evenings but I got that done, and the second paint job is much better, as good as I can do with what's left in the discontinued Testors rattle can (if anyone has a can of Testors Ultraviolet Pearl let me know, I really like that color).

At this point, moving along again on this build, I put some more detail on the engine - radiator hoses fuel bowl and now outfitting the fire wall with the fuel log and beehive oil filter.

Long story short: 

As much as I wanted to get this one finished, sometimes you have to set the bar higher ......for yourself. 

 

27 T redo.jpg

27 T redo 1.jpg

27 T redo 2.jpg

Edited by SpeedShift
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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, customline said:

Looks pretty dam good to me, Jim.  I've got a thing for the '27 roadster.  Put the other body in the pond. It deserves a second chance. That ultraviolet pearl is freakin' awesome. 

Thanks Jim - I really like the color too.

Purple and yellow are complementary colors on the color chart so the combination of the two works.

I went through a testing process to find the color.... retrieved this from my earlier posts on this build (OMG - has it really been 3 years?)  :

I've been debating the color scheme for this '27 T  in my head ...what I was sure of...I wanted a dark body/grill color with complementary (opposite) color on the wheels/engine 
 
Black is a bit too often used, I like red too, but that is a bit common as well.
Been reading Al Drakes book on fifties hot rods, there were purple cars back then, even some on the dry lakes.
I thought I maybe a very dark blue/violet metallic with red or maybe yellow orange steelie wheels.
 
After searching the rattle can racks I couldn't find exactly what I wanted....the choices:
 
  • Tamiya Blue Violet........ value too pale, hue a bit bland light blue, a solid color, a metallic might be better
  •  
  • Tamiya Deep Metallic Blue......right value, dark, but hue was too blue, not enough violet
  •  
  • Model Master Deep Pearlescent Purple enamel.........dark enough but not exciting
  •  
  • Model Master/Rustoleum  Ford Ultra Violet Pearl Lacquer.........the right value, dark, and a deep violet hue, and its a fast drying lacquer

 "Put the other body in the pond. It deserves a second chance."

Yes, maybe if I stripped it and somehow revitalized the raised detail and got a good coat of primer on it - it could have a second life.

Kinda burnt out on the '27 T for the time being, but I got a thing for 27 Ts myself.

 

 

Edited by SpeedShift
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14 hours ago, styromaniac said:

Modlbldr saw my plea for a can of the discontinued Ultraviolet Pearl in my "Wanted" post. He found a can in his stash that he thinks has some left in it. Its on its way to me now.

Well, thanks for looking for me.... I may need to think about a new project that uses that Ultraviolet color...not sure if I should mess around with this one further....and just go with this third paint job and give it a wax job

and not tempt fate. 

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Paul Payne said:

Super build of an old time rod!

Thanks Paul...certainly put the time in on this one.

Give the '27 T is my favorite car (other than a 32 or 34 deuce) I wanted to make it as good as I can.

Edited by SpeedShift
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