doorsovdoon Posted April 2, 2021 Posted April 2, 2021 One thing that always lets down my builds is the script badging on the bodywork. They're so small I find it impossible to paint them to a tidy standard. I have seen one method where foil is laid under the paint and then removed with a tooth pick using thinners, I tried it and doesn't work for me. First time the foil turned black and kept staining the surrounding paint, and the other time I removed too much paint leaving the entire square foil patch visible. Is there an easy way around this or is it just one of those jobs that every builder dreads?
RichCostello Posted April 2, 2021 Posted April 2, 2021 I like to use a metallic silver gel pen, works pretty good.
Snake45 Posted April 2, 2021 Posted April 2, 2021 I either use the foil-under-paint method, or dry-brush silver paint. Got a couple of these jobs to do even as we speak, in fact.
Plowboy Posted April 2, 2021 Posted April 2, 2021 The best way to do the foil method is to simply use a polishing pad to remove the paint. I have used 2000 grit also. Just have to sand carefully.
doorsovdoon Posted April 2, 2021 Author Posted April 2, 2021 On 4/2/2021 at 6:59 PM, RichCostello said: I like to use a metallic silver gel pen, works pretty good. Expand My knowledge on arts and crafts is limited, I bought a gel pen on ebay but was basically a ball point pen. Another silver pen I picked up in the market had a fine felt tip but again the ink wouldn't stay on, it was like water.
doorsovdoon Posted April 2, 2021 Author Posted April 2, 2021 On 4/2/2021 at 7:23 PM, Snake45 said: I either use the foil-under-paint method, or dry-brush silver paint. Got a couple of these jobs to do even as we speak, in fact. Expand I have had some success with that method but found it's so thinly laid on it comes off with the slightest touch.
doorsovdoon Posted April 2, 2021 Author Posted April 2, 2021 On 4/2/2021 at 7:23 PM, Plowboy said: The best way to do the foil method is to simply use a polishing pad to remove the paint. I have used 2000 grit also. Just have to sand carefully. Expand Yeah, I have a feeling the only way do this is foil under the paint and just learn how to remove the paint, but at the same time not too much! I haven't tried any sandpapers yet so might give that a try next time.
TransAmMike Posted April 2, 2021 Posted April 2, 2021 To me this actually may be one of the most dreaded steps (tho there certainly others) in modelling cars. I've been reluctant to do the foil under method for fear of messing up the paint job. So far, the dry brush method has worked pretty good. Notice, I said pretty good.
JohnU Posted April 2, 2021 Posted April 2, 2021 The first time I tried the foil under paint for fine script I was puzzled about how to concentrate an abrasive on such a small area. Then I found in my pencil cup an old eraser “pencil” the kind used by draftsmen back in the day before CAD took over for blueprint drawing. Was able to shape it down to a point fine enough to just rub the paint off the high areas of the script! The abrasive in them are perfect for removal of paint because I think they were designed to remove ink on paper. The one I got I’ve had since my apprentice days many moons ago! A light touch is all you need to remove paint, then a buff with a soft clean cloth.
gtx6970 Posted April 2, 2021 Posted April 2, 2021 foil under paint. I use those real small Tamiya pointed swabs dipped in laquer thinner to remove the paint
gtx6970 Posted April 2, 2021 Posted April 2, 2021 https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/finishing/craft-cotton-swab-7/
doorsovdoon Posted April 2, 2021 Author Posted April 2, 2021 On 4/2/2021 at 9:56 PM, JohnU said: The first time I tried the foil under paint for fine script I was puzzled about how to concentrate an abrasive on such a small area. Then I found in my pencil cup an old eraser “pencil” the kind used by draftsmen back in the day before CAD took over for blueprint drawing. Was able to shape it down to a point fine enough to just rub the paint off the high areas of the script! The abrasive in them are perfect for removal of paint because I think they were designed to remove ink on paper. The one I got I’ve had since my apprentice days many moons ago! A light touch is all you need to remove paint, then a buff with a soft clean cloth. Expand ah, rubber ink erasers! I didn't think of using those. I remember I had one in school, they worked.. by rubbing a hole in the paper! Might work on paint though. Thanks, John, I'll give that a try next time.
doorsovdoon Posted April 2, 2021 Author Posted April 2, 2021 On 4/2/2021 at 10:48 PM, gtx6970 said: foil under paint. I use those real small Tamiya pointed swabs dipped in laquer thinner to remove the paint Expand Yes, that's the method I used the last couple times but it removed too much paint. Might be the paint I'm using because I really have to scrub hard with the thinners to remove the paint but in doing so it removes paint from around the script also.
RichCostello Posted April 3, 2021 Posted April 3, 2021 (edited) On 4/2/2021 at 7:27 PM, doorsovdoon said: I have had some success with that method but found it's so thinly laid on it comes off with the slightest touch. Expand Pentel "Sunburst" Metallic, medium point. Bought it at Hobby Lobby(I think), and yes it's a ball point. It also works good on interior trim and dashes. Chris(HPI GUY) uses one all the time. I quoted the wrong post, but you get the idea. Edited April 3, 2021 by RichCostello
doorsovdoon Posted April 3, 2021 Author Posted April 3, 2021 On 4/3/2021 at 12:51 AM, RichCostello said: Pentel "Sunburst" Metallic, medium point. Bought it at Hobby Lobby(I think), and yes it's a ball point. It also works good on interior trim and dashes. Chris(HPI GUY) uses one all the time. Expand Yes, ball point gel pens is what I bought but it didn't work on the smooth surface of the paint. I've seen many people use gel pens and they seem to work great but for some reason they just don't work for me. Maybe there's stricter chemical laws here than the States, many once good products have been watered down here over the last twenty years.
Bills72sj Posted April 3, 2021 Posted April 3, 2021 I have done the foil under the paint then sanding method. I have not tried the foil then thinner method. Sounds risky. I have done some with the 1mm Molotow pen and a VERY VERY light touch/drag.
doorsovdoon Posted April 3, 2021 Author Posted April 3, 2021 I have a 1mm Molotow but the tip can get too loaded with chrome sometimes and is a nightmare to remove off the paint. Even the 1mm tip is too big for some script badging. Dragging the side of the tip along the script sometimes works but it depends on how prominent the script is.
gtx6970 Posted April 3, 2021 Posted April 3, 2021 On 4/2/2021 at 11:54 PM, doorsovdoon said: Yes, that's the method I used the last couple times but it removed too much paint. Might be the paint I'm using because I really have to scrub hard with the thinners to remove the paint but in doing so it removes paint from around the script also. Expand Ive done this method using both air brush and rattle can paints. Key is VERY light touch with the swab. Best to use it under a lighted magnifier
StevenGuthmiller Posted April 3, 2021 Posted April 3, 2021 I think you all know my opinion.? I don’t think it’s possible to do a better job on scripts than using the “fup” technique, with the exception of using PE parts. The technique is very sound. Execution of the technique is where the problems arise. Steve
doorsovdoon Posted April 3, 2021 Author Posted April 3, 2021 Thanks for all the suggestions, guys, I really appreciate it. It seems foil under paint is the way to go, I just need to work on the technique of removing it afterwards and using the right products and tools. I'll try all that's been suggested here on my next build and see what works. I'll post an update here of the result.
MrObsessive Posted April 3, 2021 Posted April 3, 2021 I'm another that can certainly vouch for Steve's method! I tried this on a Ford Cougar II model I built and it came out quite well. In some cases, this is the better way to go than scripts as some of them are a bit..........big.
Snake45 Posted April 3, 2021 Posted April 3, 2021 When I rehabbed this glue bomb '68 Vette, I foiled the bare plastic, then laid down one coat of black primer, two coats of the metallic orange, and two or three coats of Wet Look Clear. Then I wet-sanded the clear with 3M #1000 Wetordry. Over the emblems, I stopped sanding when I hit the primer coat. Then I polished out the clear as normal, and the black primer went away at the same time. For the foiled gas cap emblem, before paint, I masked it with a spot of white glue applied with a toothpick. This was easily removed after painting.
doorsovdoon Posted April 3, 2021 Author Posted April 3, 2021 Nice work there, guys. I like that Ford Cougar II! I did see a method on a YouTube video similar to white glue but I can't remember what it was he used. Might have been nail polish, or something like that.
doorsovdoon Posted April 6, 2021 Author Posted April 6, 2021 ok, decided on my next project to try this on, the '64 Belvedere. The script badges are incredibly small so I had to use regular kitchen foil which is much thinner than the chrome ducting tape I usually use for trim. Even this doesn't really settle into the raised writing that well. I think after a few coats of paint it's just going to look like a raised lump of silver!
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