Having trouble cutting BMF around keyhole and antenna base.

[AlbertD]

Do you guys have any tips to do this? I'm using the BMF for the first time and so far it's been going pretty well until this.

 

Thanks in advance, Al

[Fat Brian]

For tiny round spots I use Molotow. The pens are terrible, I just bought the refill tube and put a drop or two in a left over water bottle lid and apply it with a brush or toothpick. 

[AlbertD]

5 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:

For tiny round spots I use Molotow. The pens are terrible, I just bought the refill tube and put a drop or two in a left over water bottle lid and apply it with a brush or toothpick. 

Thanks Brian, I just got one of those Molotow refills a couple of weeks ago and will give it a try.

[peteski]

I would take some brass thin-wall (or even hypodermic) tubing close in diameter to the items you want cover, sharpen the end, then use the tubing as a punch to punch out small disks of BMF, then apply them to the model.

Edited April 30, 2021 by peteski

[peteski]

1 minute ago, peteski said:

I would take some brass thin-wall (or even hypodermic) tubing close in diameter to the items you want cover, sharpen the edge, then use the tubing as a punch to punch out small disks of BMF, then apply them to the model.

 

[Dave G.]

I have to admit being a Molotow fan if you can figure out how to apply it on tiny things, it's perfect imo.. I have success and then not so much, but then at 71 I'm lucky to see it much less hit it square anymore. That's part of why I like 1/16 scale. But my chances of seeing the details goes way up if I stay of the danged computer ! I bet Molotow works for ya though. Just sayin.

[AlbertD]

Thanks guys, I'll try both methods for sure. 

[Bainford]

2 hours ago, peteski said:

I would take some brass thin-wall (or even hypodermic) tubing close in diameter to the items you want cover, sharpen the end, then use the tubing as a punch to punch out small disks of BMF, then apply them to the model.

That’s exactly what I do when I need a small circle of BMF. I keep a selection of small brass tube punches for that purpose, and others. Some are sharpened on the OD and some on the ID to get a larger variety of sizes. 
 

They are handy for punching.005” or .010” sheet plastic, circles of masking tape, punching a circle from a decal, etc etc

[peteski]

Perfect! Those pictures are worth a 1000 words (I didn't have any pictures handy).  I also have Waldron and Micro-Mark punch sets, but the brass tubing punches work very well for thin items like BMF (or thin styrene).

[AlbertD]

You guys are the best. Thanks.

[StevenGuthmiller]

There are a couple of much simpler ways of dealing with this sort of issue.

first is to treat the door locks and other small features as you would a script and use the “foil under paint” technique.

cover the feature with foil, paint the body and then remove the paint from the door lock, or whatever, with some thinner and a small conical swab or tooth pick.

The other even easier solution is to use PE door locks.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Straightliner59]

2 hours ago, Bainford said:

That’s exactly what I do when I need a small circle of BMF. I keep a selection of small brass tube punches for that purpose, and others. Some are sharpened on the OD and some on the ID to get a larger variety of sizes. 
 

They are handy for punching.005” or .010” sheet plastic, circles of masking tape, punching a circle from a decal, etc etc

 

 

I'm with you, Trevor. I have a bunch of those punches I made! I also have a set from Micro Mark, an old set from Tandy Leather, and a set from Harbor Freight that ranges from about 3/16" up to 3/4", or so. I firmly believe that a man can never have too many tools!

[Straightliner59]

1 minute ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

There are a couple of much simpler ways of dealing with this sort of issue.

first is to treat the door locks and other small features as you would a script and use the “foil under paint” technique.

cover the feature with foil, paint the body and then remove the paint from the door lock, or whatever, with some thinner and a small conical swab or tooth pick.

The other even easier solution is to use PE door locks.

 

 

 

 

Steve

I really like what you do with the foil under the paint technique, Steve. You always make it look great on your scripts, etc. Always!

[Tom Geiger]

I like Steve’s mention of PE keyholes for two reasons. First the added detail of the key recess etc, and second PE is the right color and tone.

I believe Molotow is too shiny to be realistic. I have used a Metalizer silver in the past. To paint it, I’ve cut a round toothpick end flat at the appropriate part of it’s taper. Sanded it smooth and then used it like a rubber stamp on the keyhole.

[AlbertD]

I didn't even know PE keyhole existed until you guys mentioned them. This is only my second car model coming from aircraft. I've used plenty of PE on airplanes though. I'll pick some up and see what else is out there. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

6 hours ago, AlbertD said:

I didn't even know PE keyhole existed until you guys mentioned them. This is only my second car model coming from aircraft. I've used plenty of PE on airplanes though. I'll pick some up and see what else is out there. 

I use them whenever I can now.

As Tom stated, they're really the best option for door locks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[AlbertD]

12 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I use them whenever I can now.

As Tom stated, they're really the best option for door locks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

That's a cool 442. My brother had one just like it when I was a kid. He bought it brand new and used to love to scare the heck out of me in it.