Testors Lacquers

[Daniel Peterson]

Have any of you learned any hard lessons using the Testors lacquers and non-Testors primers?

I bought a can and some of the clear as well. I intend to prime with DupliColor. It's so seldom I actually work on anything I've kind of fallen out of the loop on the use of some of this stuff.

[RadRidesByDan]

Anything that is laquer base you have to have a laquer base primer first, I use the Scratchfill primer from Canadian Tires, the one from duplicolor is just as good to use. this way the plastic wont ripple on you.

Hope this helps

[Dave]

I've used this paint several times without primer and have had good results. I'm by no means a paint expert, but I think these "one coat" Lacquors are a "cooler" paint tht won't eat into plastics so much. I have also had great results removing it wit 91% alcohol. Hope this helps!

Dave

[Zoom Zoom]

Testors and Tamiya lacquers are so mild they do not need any primer. People will make all kinds of claims about having to use a serious lacquer primer under these paints. There are enamels out there that are far hotter than Testors or Tamiya lacquers.

Duplicolor primer is far more industrial strength than necessary. Plastikote is easier on plastic.

Tamiya primer is the best for scale fidelity and it's surface is far smoother. I wetsand primers w/2400-3600 grit micromesh because I want the color coats as smooth as possible.

Depends on how much bodywork you're doing, final color...but the Testors lacquers cover really well, far better than even Tamiya. If you don't have much of any prep work beyond polishing out mold lines, you shouldn't need primer unless your topcoat color needs a primer.

[SteveG]

Have any of you learned any hard lessons using the Testors lacquers and non-Testors primers?

I bought a can and some of the clear as well. I intend to prime with DupliColor. It's so seldom I actually work on anything I've kind of fallen out of the loop on the use of some of this stuff.

I have no problems shooting anything over Duplicolor primer, Testors lacquers included. I prefer the Scratch-fill version, especially if there's a lot of prep work. If prep work is minimal I'll decant some and thin it out slightly with med-temp lacquer thinner and use it as a primer-sealer through my airbrush.

If your super confident in your prep work or are working with a near flawless body, you could skip the primer with Testors Lacquers, they're mild enough for bare plastic. Unfortunately most of the kit bodies that I've worked with are nowhere near paint ready. Of course that a personal opinion, I always say if a technique works for you then do it !!!

-Steve

[Daniel Peterson]

Thanks gents. I think I'm good to go.

[Eshaver]

Uh my two cents added here ............. Primers actually HELP ADHESION kids !!!!!!!!!!!! Yes , they really do. Look, I've been in the body and fender repair business since 1966. Course Ive also been towing cars and trucks too since that time but thats another tale too. I pretty much taught myself how to do work on a 61 Chevrolet Bel-Air. I've seen so many time where paints lifted as a result of improper sanding or the fact that paints were applied directly over bare stock too. Look gang , take a moment and Prime .

Merry Christmas to ya'all -Ed Shaver

[MR BIGGS]

Uh my two cents added here ............. Primers actually HELP ADHESION kids !!!!!!!!!!!! Yes , they really do. Look, I've been in the body and fender repair business since 1966. Course Ive also been towing cars and trucks too since that time but thats another tale too. I pretty much taught myself how to do work on a 61 Chevrolet Bel-Air. I've seen so many time where paints lifted as a result of improper sanding or the fact that paints were applied directly over bare stock too. Look gang , take a moment and Prime .

Merry Christmas to ya'all -Ed Shaver

X-2 what Ed said.

I put primer on every raw plastic surface no matter what. When you get into the type of paint jobs and fab work that I get in to, you need primer. I have had some buddy's who don't use primer, when they did a two stage paint job and lifted the tap the paint came right with it.

[cruz]

To me it's a routine, I always prime no matter what. These new "lacquers" are really modified enamels, they are soft on plastic. I have tried them on some spare parts but you should be safe to go no matter which route you take. That being said, I want to see some progress from you, don't leave us in the loop now that we helped you!!!

[FloridaBoy]

Marcos, and others,

You guys are absolutely right!!!! Ever since the sixties when AMT Primer in the tall cans came out, I primered everything I was going to paint. I had it up to HERE with running bubbling paint up until then because I painted my base coat directly over plastic. It brought or bled out everything underneath including sanding imperfections, putty, feathering, ridges, and whatever else could happen to plastic. Then I started primering everything, and every paint related issue I had before went away, and my cars had the best finishes back then.

No bragging was intended, because now I am struggling with making a perfect finish for a car, not too thick or shiny, but not dull either, but attention getting if it were entered into a contest. To me "too shiny" cars resemble die cast cars, and I see way too often a shiny clear coat put over a wavy car.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

[Pokey]

You do NOT need primer for Testors or Tamiya Lacquers!

These paints are intended to be used on plastic, and they will not harm plastic, nor will you have any problems with adhesion if you do not use primer!

I have done 2 and 3 stage paint jobs with Testors Lacquers, and never had any issues with adhesion.

Unless you have done extensive bodywork, primer is completely unnecessary with these paints, no matter what the nay-sayers tell you!

Edited December 22, 2008 by Pokey

[E St. Kruiser50]

Marcos, and others,

To me "too shiny" cars resemble die cast cars,

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

UUUUHH.........HUH???

Why would anyone compare anything to a diecast. I hope we're not saying here that diecast paint jobs are the new Standard, or there is such a thing as "Too Shiny"

What is too shiny? Should I start using dulcoat on my metalflake . No make any sense to me .

[Randy Kern]

I want to see some progress from you, don't leave us in the loop now that we helped you!!!

I'm sure when Dan is good and ready, he will post progress pics (right, Dan?). If you have seen any of Dan's superb work in person, then you know he needs to find some building time. There's always the broken bones option for more bench time.

[Andy Wyatt]

If you have seen any of Dan's superb work in person, then you know he needs to find some building time. There's always the broken bones option for more bench time.

I'm rootin' for ya Dan! Not the broken bones part...just the bench time!

[MrObsessive]

To me "too shiny" cars resemble die cast cars, and I see way too often a shiny clear coat put over a wavy car.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I get what you're saying Ken!

I've seen "waves" in finished models which tells me the builder didn't take the time (or didn't know) to block sand the body. Particularly when the model has the ribbing molded on the underside for the headlining do I notice this the most. Door lines should especially be block sanded because of the troughs that are left behind due to the molding process.

Metallics for the most part, should be clear coated so you don't get that mottled, swirly appearance from rubbing it out directly.

Solid colors can be just plain rubbed out and waxed as usually there's enough hardener in the paint to negate clear coating. My '58 Chevy seen in my signature was simply rubbed out and waxed--------no clear coat was used.

[LoneWolf15]

If you are worried about primer use and what not ... Simply shoot the body with Testors Metallizer - Aluminum . It provides a paper thin metal coating , drys in about 30 seconds , protects as all get out , best of all , you lose no detail lines . Works like a charm , every time ! Does'nt matter if you are shooting laquer or enamel over it . It does'nt hurt the plastic !

Donn Yost

Lone Wolf Custom Painting