Deburring metal models

[unclescott58]

This last Wednesday night, at our MCCM (Model Car Club of Minnesota) meeting, another member came in and handed me an old Monogram die-cast metal MG-TC kit. He thought I might like to build the car. And he was right. I do look forward to building it. But, never having built a metal bodied kit before, I’m wondering how do I cleanup, and deburr the model? What tools do I use? And what will the metal do to those tools? 

Here is what the instructions say: “As you examine the unfinished metal parts, you may notice small amounts of flash along the mold parting line. Use a flat or round jeweler’s file or a razor knife to carefully remove the flash and mold parting lines. Be sure to retain the basic contour of the surface you are filing. When you have removed the flash, sand the filed surface with 600 wet-or-dry sandpaper. This type of sandpaper works best with water. Be careful not to sand down the raised details such as door locks and nameplates.” 

Sounds good. But, is there more? Or is it that simple? And again, what is going to do my files and other tools?

Edited February 12, 2022 by unclescott58

[Ace-Garageguy]

That's all there is to it.

These Jags are from the same series as your MG, same metal.

It's soft metal and won't hurt your tools, though they'll dull a little quicker than on plastic.

Notice the heavy parting line along the side of the upper one.

[RSchnell]

I do a fair amount of the old Hubley metal models and I use a set of small files, sanding block with 280 or 320 paper and a set of cheap cutters/nippers from Harbor Freight. 

[TonyK]

Ace is right. I've used files and sandpaper with good results but haven't used the "wet" method. A good cleaning afterwards and some good primer will get you to the painting part.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Rear of the Jags, with some unwanted details removed and the surface prepped for first primer coat with 180 grit paper:

...and because these models are metal, you can use very "hot" automotive self-etching primers for best adhesion.

[unclescott58]

6 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

That's all there is to it.

These Jags are from the same series as your MG, same metal.

It's soft metal and won't hurt your tools, though they'll dull a little quicker than on plastic.

Notice the heavy parting line along the side of the upper one.

 

6 hours ago, RSchnell said:

I do a fair amount of the old Hubley metal models and I use a set of small files, sanding block with 280 or 320 paper and a set of cheap cutters/nippers from Harbor Freight. 

 

5 hours ago, TonyK said:

Ace is right. I've used files and sandpaper with good results but haven't used the "wet" method. A good cleaning afterwards and some good primer will get you to the painting part.

Thank you guys your advice. So far, using an X-acto knife and jeweler’s file has got the ruff stuff off. There seems to be no harm to the file. I doubt the X-acto blade is good for anything else now. Now on to sanding.

[unclescott58]

7 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

That's all there is to it.

These Jags are from the same series as your MG, same metal.

It's soft metal and won't hurt your tools, though they'll dull a little quicker than on plastic.

Notice the heavy parting line along the side of the upper one.

 

5 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Rear of the Jags, with some unwanted details removed and the surface prepped for first primer coat with 180 grit paper:

...and because these models are metal, you can use very "hot" automotive self-etching primers for best adhesion.

By the way, I ordered the Jaguar from a vendor on eBay yesterday. That one body seam is a duesy. A little sanding is going to be required there. It looks like it will be well worth it. 

[Matt Bacon]

When I started out on my white metal kit of the Silver Ghost, I invested in a Swiss (Vallorbe is a brand to look for…) “Cut 4” watchmakers file which was about £10 and worth every penny. The trick I learned was to use a piece of scrap brass tube to clean the teeth after each session. Squish the end flat and use it like a brush pulled through the teeth at +-45 degrees and all the white metal blobs will come straight off…

best,

M.

[peteski]

Even cheap files are safe to use on white metal, brass, and aluminum. Now you you try to file harder metals (like some stainless steel alloysor  high-speed steel) that might dull the files, but I don't think I ever heard of metal files made just for plastic.

[Dave G.]

Back in the day I used to build die cast locomotives. Beyond the flash removal and such which I did mostly with the heavier Xacto blade ( the one sharpened on an angle, I don't recall the number off hand), files and sandpaper as you all are saying. I remember doing a white vinegar wash, then rinse and priming/painting with Floquil paints. I don't think the self etching primers were even out yet honestly. The paint always held up fine.

[unclescott58]

This came into todays mail. Cleanup on this looks like will a lot less than on the MG. Though the MG was not bad. Also the hood looks like it fit fits fine. Contrary to what I’ve heard. 

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

On 2/13/2022 at 2:48 PM, Dave G. said:

I remember doing a white vinegar wash, then rinse and priming/painting with Floquil paints. I don't think the self etching primers were even out yet honestly. The paint always held up fine.

The vinegar was kinda supposed to do the same thing as the self-etching primers.

I well remember doing that on old die-cast model RR parts too.  

[Oldmopars]

I have built some of the metal models, I use my Dremel with sanding drum. Then files and the rest like others.