Mattilacken Posted November 4, 2022 Posted November 4, 2022 So yesterday I shot clear over my Tamiya black. It was a generic brand acrylic clear and on the hood and a little bit on the roof it looked like the paint cracked. I polished the hood but the damage was severe so it burnt throug in several places. It also looks dull, did I go through the clear? What is the best/ easiest way to go forward, except for the burn through. Does it seem like the clear is gone and I am trying to polish the paint since I can’t get no shine or depth back? shall I touch up the black and re clear? I can still see some damages from the other clear. And btw I am almost out of paint, can probably get some to the AB but the gas in the can is gone.
bobthehobbyguy Posted November 5, 2022 Posted November 5, 2022 Just a thought but how about painting the hood flat black. How bad is the roof? You might want to spray a spoon to test the paint compatibility. Reactions are always a hazard. 1
Mark Posted November 5, 2022 Posted November 5, 2022 Test, test, test, and test again when using products from different companies, or even from one manufacturer but different paint systems. Sometimes you'll get lucky in a test, but on the "good" item you don't wait as long before clearcoating, apply the clear more heavily than during the test session, or introduce some other variable. That said, you probably have wiped out the clear on the hood. If everything else is to your satisfaction, strip and repaint the hood using the same technique and time between coats as was done on the other parts. 2
Plowboy Posted November 5, 2022 Posted November 5, 2022 First, what is the generic clear? Did you spray it from a can or use an airbrush? If you used an airbrush, did you thin the clear with something? If so, what did you use? I would sand what you need with 1000 grit and shoot another coat of black. Allow it to dry well, sand lightly with 2000 and shoot a light coat of clear. If nothing happens, do another coat of clear. If you get another reaction, you'll have to start over. This is what happens when you use two different products together. Toss that generic clear and get a can of TS-13! 2
av405 Posted November 5, 2022 Posted November 5, 2022 7 hours ago, Plowboy said: First, what is the generic clear? Did you spray it from a can or use an airbrush? If you used an airbrush, did you thin the clear with something? If so, what did you use? I would sand what you need with 1000 grit and shoot another coat of black. Allow it to dry well, sand lightly with 2000 and shoot a light coat of clear. If nothing happens, do another coat of clear. If you get another reaction, you'll have to start over. This is what happens when you use two different products together. Toss that generic clear and get a can of TS-13! Agreed! No need to strip the hood, just sand and reshoot the black and clear. For the hood, I would definitely use TS-13. I would set the hood aside until you can get some more Tamiya Black and Clear. 1
StevenGuthmiller Posted November 5, 2022 Posted November 5, 2022 14 hours ago, Plowboy said: Toss that generic clear I agree!! I can't even begin to count how often I see people having paint issues, whether on this or other forums, or the dozens of Facebook groups that I visit, but it's a constant and never ending thing. And 99.9% of the time, it's because people try to use this cheapo paint, whether they're using it exclusively, or mixing it in with other "good" paint. You have to make the decision of whether or not you want to spend a little extra money up front and buy good paint in the first place, or whether you would rather spend countless hours fixing the problems that the cheap paint created for you, not to mention the added cost of having to buy more paint to correct the mess from the first attempt. Please people, use good materials! Steve 5
Tom Geiger Posted November 5, 2022 Posted November 5, 2022 Agreed Steve! I pretty much use Tamiya and Duplicolor with some Testors for small items and interiors. Awhile back I was building my 50 Ford Jitney pickup and couldn’t find a good yellow.. then I saw the perfect tone in some Walmart spray can. What a nightmare! It was slow to dry, I was waiting up to a week between coats and then I’d get some curling in odd spots for no apparent reason. I had too much time into the model to quit so I suffered on with 4-5 times the work I should’ve done. Then I tossed the 1/2 full can so I wouldn’t forget and try it again!? 1
Bills72sj Posted November 6, 2022 Posted November 6, 2022 (edited) Try household ammonia and a cotton swab as a test. It will take off acrylics such as Future. It will not bother solvent based paint. I had to redo the roof of my Chevelle 3 times before I was happy with it. Edited November 6, 2022 by Bills72sj
Mattilacken Posted November 13, 2022 Author Posted November 13, 2022 (edited) Thanks guys for all the inputs. Yes I rushed a bit and that cost me both time and money in getting new cans. Stupid of me. I tried to sand it down even further after I had used micro mesh and polish to try to bring it back with no luck to see if I could salvage it but I couldn’t. Also noticed more orange peel on the cab when sanding. So it went in to the pond of break fluid today. Will need to go through and brush of al the old paint to night. Have ordered new cans of primer and paint and will try to Finnish before the end of the month. Wish me luck! Edited November 13, 2022 by Mattilacken
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