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Well, it WAS amt's '61 Ranchero...


Farmboy

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The fuel injection rails were a bit of a pain...

I had originally decided on a very small styrene rectangle with half round on the top.  When installed, well, they looked like barn doors ready to taxi down the strip.  Besides, the fuel line would have been the approximate size of the rad hoses.  Not good.  I experimented with aluminum, copper, and brass tube.  None small enough.  Then, I found a cello package of thin  small diameter metal tubing in an overcrowded parts drawer the other day.   Decision made.  Still not decided on an injector harness.

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I made sure each tube will have a fuel line that clears the two rad hose fixtures so they meet each other at a tee. 
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I like the off-brass color as it adds a bit of an accent to the predominantly silver/black motif in that area, but I may change my mind. A light scrubbing with steel wool should bring the shine down if I don't change it.  Guess it's on to fuel lines, fan belt and air delivery.

Comments and observations welcome

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Mike, when I want to do wiring and tubing, I look at polystyrene solid and tubing, electrical wire and the insulation, and for really fine stuff (imitating wiring harness) I use transformer wire which can be VERY fine. Thicker copper wire is good for fuel lines is very bendable, and very tiny jewelry store beads make nice couplers. Just a suggestion.

Looking good so far.

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Hey Gary, like you, that's the stuff I learned to model with.   To some degree, old school is a major part of my modeling skills catalogue, and I  tend to work with what I have or can adapt to be a believable part of the subject.  Suggestions are always welcome.

 

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Most of the upper fuel done

IMG-20230703-151934.jpg

The lines are good ol' thin gauge solder, tees are made from brass tube.  The line going from the rear tee is an overflow line heading back to the fuel tank.  A fuel feed will connect to the front tee from a barrel valve with its own fuel return line.  A bit of overkill but the rear looked lonely.  Note the rear connector line contours around what will be the oil filler.  I'm off center so the bend looks out of line but it isn't.  The white piece on the side of the block is the generator.  Needs a pulley and paint.

IMG-20230703-151523.jpg

Comments and observations welcome.

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It's starting to look a bit busier.  The oil filler pipe has been installed and I've connected the fuel supply line to the f.i. rails, the other end of the fuel line going to a simplified barrel valve.  I should have waited to install the upper rad hose first as it will go underneath the fuel line but I left room for it.  Two other lines will connect to the side (or bottom) of this piece and then to the not yet installed fuel pump at the front of the blower. 

IMG-20230705-152943.jpg

A better view of the barrelvalve assembly showing the throttle lever.  This will be connected to a cable that disappears under the bed ending (in my world) at the gas pedal.  Also installed the shaft/pulley to the generator. I notice the rear side of the cab opening looks a bit grotty in pics but I don't see it at the bench.   Hmmm, see if I can fix that without too much trouble.


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And just so the left side doesn't get all the attention, I think the front end business will more or less balance once the intake pipes and rad hoses get installed.  Note the little hole for the fuel pump.

IMG-20230705-153053.jpg

Comments and observations welcome

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Thanks for the kind words Gary.  I'm constantly surprised myself at what I notice once a picture is posted...details like the two plug wires disconnected (corrected), and some smoothing to small areas missed (corrected) even though I have the actual unit on the bench!  No secrets here lol! 

 

 

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Because of the spacer I made to move the blower forward, the two large air pipes also need to be lengthened.  They were built to join to the manifold extensions with half lap joints, making it easier to simply add a short straight extension instead of rebuilding them entirely.  You can see this joint in the top most pipe in the shot below.

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Got lucky in cementing the homemade extensions straight by slipping a section of plastic tube (coffee stir stick) over the joint to hold them in alignment while the tamya cement cured.  A touch of scratch filler, a light sanding, some primer, followed by a coat of krylon chrome and they should be good to go.

Comments and observations welcome.

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Tip for hoses. Get some electronic shrink tubing which is available to about 1/16" and then shrink to 1/2 size with heat (soldering iron, match, etc). Black looks like radiator or heater hose. Also available in many colors. Can get a little creative with a cheap $7 soldering iron heating (shrinking) part of the tubing. Also, to make stainless steel woven hoses for race cars (or show), look at the fine woven necklace thread in Micheal's jewellery makers dept. Just a suggestion.

Fine work so far, Mike.

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I was wondering if I could pull off a credible job of the two air pipes on the front of the engine.  I had some same diameter aluminum rod so why not give it a try.  The big deal was to create the compound curves without leaving marks, and getting them the right length and height.  It was rod so my round pliers didn't mar them like tubing.  I'll be making the pipe connections with plastic collars so I cut the pipes short in both axies(?) as they will allow for minor adjustment...and here's the mockup

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The collar connectors are long to sort of hold things in place for the shot but the finished ones give me horizontal adjustment while there will also be another 2 at the blower end for vertical.  I think it works...and they're not chrome.  Note also the plate I'll be using for the four rad hoses at the front of the bed.

Comments and observations welcome

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Got the collars (pipe/hose clamps) on.  These were made from close fitting coffee stir sticks but I could have used metal tubing, shrink tubing etc.  The metal clamps were done with thin strips of bmf.  The plumbers nightmare gets bigger lol.

 


IMG-20230711-144254.jpg

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Heater hoses are next

Comments and observations welcome.

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The metal bands really  make it outstanding. I never used bmf since it did not exist for me in 50s and 60s. I guess I will have to be dragged into the modern age (kicking and screaming). Your a learning experience Mike. Loven it.

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I feel that way about 3d printing Gary.  It's natural evolution, but change tends to put a tremor in the force for me and it takes a while to warm up to it.  I only just bought a Molotow pen a couple of days ago, one small step for Mikey....  I would normally have slipped the tube on a rod chucked in the drill press and carefully hold a silver pencil (or paint pen) to let it make the band, but the foil is cleaner. ...and thanks for the kind words.

Edited by Farmboy
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1 minute ago, Farmboy said:

I feel that way about 3d printing Gary.  It's natural evolution, but change tends to put a tremor in the force for me and it takes a while to warm up to it.  I only just bought a Molotow pen a couple of days ago, one small step for Mikey....  I would normally have slipped the tube on a rod chucked in the drill press and carefully hold a silver pencil (or paint pen) to let it make the band, but the foil is cleaner.

Looks good Mike.

Glad to see you got home safe from Moncton. 

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  1. 5 minutes ago, Can-Con said:
    1.  

Hey Steve!  Seems like everybody had a good time at the show, it was nice to sit and have a chat with you.  Normally a short hop across the bridge and I'm home in 10 minutes but a friend needed a lift the other way so it was about 40 with traffic.  Looking forward to next year, trust you had a safe drive home as well.

 

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Just now, Farmboy said:
  1.  

Hey Steve!  Seems like everybody had a good time at the show, it was nice to sit and have a chat with you.  Normally a short hop across the bridge and I'm home in 10 minutes but a friend needed a lift the other way so it was about 40 with traffic.  Looking forward to next year, trust you had a safe drive home as well.

 

Yup, 2 hours with the AC on high all the way. 😁

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