'63 Impala

[TransAmMike]

I generally just wing it when I do something but I thought I would ask for some suggestions from ya'll.

Any ideas on doing rear on it.  

A real car 

Here's my victim:

What say you?    Any and all suggestions will be appreciated!!

 

 

[oldnslow]

I'd say to mask off the area and paint it flat aluminum then either motolow them chrome or bare metal chrome them ,  run tail light red paint into the lower areas . I'd do this with the body standing on end so that if there was any extra on the chrome you could wipe it off and it wouldn't show .

Edited January 31, 2023 by oldnslow

[Tcoat]

Bare metal foil flat aluminium base, bright chrome around edges and lights and a drop of thinned clear red flowed in lenses.

[espo]

I agree with the flat silver/aluminum spray for the surround area and the foil for the outer trim around the area. The taillights in my mind would work best with the use of a chrome paint of some sort.  The reason I think this way is that as moldable as foil can be there is just too many crevasses to have a smooth surface in all the of taillight lenses. Consider some of the Gundam Markers for this. I have started using their chrome marker for areas like this and, for me anyway, I have had better results. One idea to consider in the taillight lenses themselves would be to paint the chrome surround only and see what they look like with just that treatment before going over them with a chrome paint and clear red. 

[TransAmMike]

14 hours ago, oldnslow said:

I'd say to mask off the area and paint it flat aluminum then either motolow them chrome or bare metal chrome them ,  run tail light red paint into the lower areas . I'd do this with the body standing on end so that if there was any extra on the chrome you could wipe it off and it wouldn't show .

 

3 hours ago, Tcoat said:

Bare metal foil flat aluminium base, bright chrome around edges and lights and a drop of thinned clear red flowed in lenses.

32 minutes ago, espo said:

I agree with the flat silver/aluminum spray for the surround area and the foil for the outer trim around the area. The taillights in my mind would work best with the use of a chrome paint of some sort.  The reason I think this way is that as moldable as foil can be there is just too many crevasses to have a smooth surface in all the of taillight lenses. Consider some of the Gundam Markers for this. I have started using their chrome marker for areas like this and, for me anyway, I have had better results. One idea to consider in the taillight lenses themselves would be to paint the chrome surround only and see what they look like with just that treatment before going over them with a chrome paint and clear red. 

Thanks guys'.   All good suggestions. I'm kinda hesitant to spray the silver.  Not sure I can actually get the curves masked good enough. Thought about BMF but like you said David getting it to lay down with all the curves would likely be a problem.  Also how could I get it around the taillights?  And those taillights?  If AMT would have just did seperate lenses.

David, how are the Gundam different than the Molotow markers?

[Joe Nunes]

Mike, you can try using Silly Putty as a paint mask for small and/or tight areas.  Use a two -end pointed toothpick with one point beveled to put the SP where you want it; also, dental tools can aid when pushing the putty into areas where you don't want the paint to be.  

Joe

[Tcoat]

54 minutes ago, espo said:

I agree with the flat silver/aluminum spray for the surround area and the foil for the outer trim around the area. The taillights in my mind would work best with the use of a chrome paint of some sort.  The reason I think this way is that as moldable as foil can be there is just too many crevasses to have a smooth surface in all the of taillight lenses. Consider some of the Gundam Markers for this. I have started using their chrome marker for areas like this and, for me anyway, I have had better results. One idea to consider in the taillight lenses themselves would be to paint the chrome surround only and see what they look like with just that treatment before going over them with a chrome paint and clear red. 

The BMF will follow just about any compound curve or shape. You just have to be gentle and take your time. The markers are nice but still look like paint. 

Completely BMF including intakes and superchargers.

 

[espo]

For masking tape my preference is Tamiya masking tape. Sometimes in a tight space with a lot of detail I'll use the 10 mm wide tape and cover both sides of the trim. Burnish the tape on the trim and use a new #11 and cut away the tape at the chrome trim line closest to the area you are wanting to paint. The rest of the body can be masked with a larger size working from the 100 mm as a base. The taillights themselves you could use a small piece of tape to cover the lense and another around the mounting trim in a circular fashion and bend over the lense. Looking at the picture you have the lenses themselves may be the hardest part. I would mask off the silver painted area before trying to use and chrome paint for the trim in order to prevent any of the chrome paint from running onto the silver paint. After you have all of the cover area on the trunk lid looking the way you want it you can then go back and do your chrome foil on the outer surround trim. As for the Gundam pen, I have found it to not flow everywhere like I had with the Molotow. This may just be me, but I feel like I have better control of the application. Not everyone has the same experience with every product and I have seen many that swore by the Molotow pen and others swore at it. 

[NOBLNG]

I don’t know what kind of paint that is or how well it’s cured, but be wary of leaving the masking tape on too long. I wound up with tape marks all over the trunk lid of the ‘64 I did.? For what it’s worth, I agree with the first response and would use molotow not foil on the trim and bezels.

[Tcoat]

7 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

I don’t know what kind of paint that is or how well it’s cured, but be wary of leaving the masking tape on too long. I wound up with tape marks all over the trunk lid of the ‘64 I did.? For what it’s worth, I agree with the first response and would use molotow not foil on the trim and bezels.

I would use marker or paint on those lights as well if they had sharper edges. That nice smooth rounded edge is begging for foil. 

[TransAmMike]

23 minutes ago, Joe Nunes said:

Mike, you can try using Silly Putty as a paint mask for small and/or tight areas.  Use a two -end pointed toothpick with one point beveled to put the SP where you want it; also, dental tools can aid when pushing the putty into areas where you don't want the paint to be.  

Joe

I have never used silly putty.  I do some liquid mask but have not used it on a model car.

24 minutes ago, Tcoat said:

The BMF will follow just about any compound curve or shape. You just have to be gentle and take your time. The markers are nice but still look like paint. 

Completely BMF including intakes and superchargers.

 

Wow Tony....you did that P-38??  Thats awesome and all BMF covering??

25 minutes ago, espo said:

For masking tape my preference is Tamiya masking tape. Sometimes in a tight space with a lot of detail I'll use the 10 mm wide tape and cover both sides of the trim. Burnish the tape on the trim and use a new #11 and cut away the tape at the chrome trim line closest to the area you are wanting to paint. The rest of the body can be masked with a larger size working from the 100 mm as a base. The taillights themselves you could use a small piece of tape to cover the lense and another around the mounting trim in a circular fashion and bend over the lense. Looking at the picture you have the lenses themselves may be the hardest part. I would mask off the silver painted area before trying to use and chrome paint for the trim in order to prevent any of the chrome paint from running onto the silver paint. After you have all of the cover area on the trunk lid looking the way you want it you can then go back and do your chrome foil on the outer surround trim. As for the Gundam pen, I have found it to not flow everywhere like I had with the Molotow. This may just be me, but I feel like I have better control of the application. Not everyone has the same experience with every product and I have seen many that swore by the Molotow pen and others swore at it. 

I do have 1/8 Tamiya I could try.  An yeah, thre taillights...ugh.  I agree with the Molotow pen. I have all the sizes and a refil bottle. I thought the pens were great when I first started using them but have soured on them.

Will look into the Gundam markers for sure.

12 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

I don’t know what kind of paint that is or how well it’s cured, but be wary of leaving the masking tape on too long. I wound up with tape marks all over the trunk lid of the ‘64 I did.? For what it’s worth, I agree with the first response and would use molotow not foil on the trim and bezels.

Well Greg, It's Tamiya gloss acrylic. First time I have used it. I'm planning to use the Tamiya clear...only the 2d time I will have  used it and as the saying goes, "jury's still out" on it.

[Tcoat]

17 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

 

Wow Tony....you did that P-38??  Thats awesome and all BMF covering??

 

 

Yes that is my P-38 and it is all BMF.

I have done several whole aircraft in BMF so have loads of practice. 

[TransAmMike]

1 hour ago, Tcoat said:

Yes that is my P-38 and it is all BMF.

I have done several whole aircraft in BMF so have loads of practice. 

 

Great looking models Tony.  It's worth a  try for me at least.   Unfortunately, I getting a bit ahead of myself with doing it. Still need to clear it and this cold and wet weather is keeping me from doing it.

[Leica007]

When I'm using Molotow for small details, like the taillight rings, I put a dab on something and then use a toothpick to pickup and apply to the part. Lets me highlight the edge of something with good control. I usually use the 2 or 4mm tip to get the dab, gives me a small puddle to work from.  I do this especially for wipers.

[tbill]

I don’t know what you have on hand for paint, but I have a bottle of model master lacquer aluminum paint that I would do the panel with, then I would foil the outer trim, for the tail lamp rings I’d pool some Molotow  into something and with a Tamiya ( or equivalent) small pointy swab I’d detail the rings, probably after hitting the ‘lenses’ with Tamiya clear red.

[TransAmMike]

Thank you all for your suggestions.   I do use Molotow for small touchups and with a toothpick.

But now I have a new issue....I decided since because of the weather and my impatience to get going on the rear panel, I would  forego the clear and use polishing  compound on  the Tamiya gloss.  I got the hood, roof, trunk and passenger side pretty nice and disaster hit. Not a big surprise on my work. I burned thru the the paint on the side ridge behind the door almost to the end of the fender. 

Oh well, I'm not a fan of stripping paint from a model but I'm guessing it's what I'll be doing.

[Rodent]

I have successfully avoided this issue for my entire 56-year model building timeline by never buying or building a '63 (or '62) Impala ?

But since you are now stripping, how about spraying the tail with your choice of silver, masking, then shooting the red? Your mask lines don't need to be perfect if you are using BMF on the outer trim anyway.

[TransAmMike]

16 hours ago, Rodent said:

I have successfully avoided this issue for my entire 56-year model building timeline by never buying or building a '63 (or '62) Impala ?

But since you are now stripping, how about spraying the tail with your choice of silver, masking, then shooting the red? Your mask lines don't need to be perfect if you are using BMF on the outer trim anyway.

I hear ya...really only reson I'm doing it is it was a present from my wife who for some reason likes the taillights on the '63. 

I know painting the silver first is what I should have done.  I hate precision masking tho.

[NOBLNG]

I have one of these kits that I haven’t opened yet. I take it those tail lights are molded in, not separate pieces? The ones in the ‘64 lowrider I did were separate, but so over-sized and un-uniform, that I wound up making my own.?

[TransAmMike]

57 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

I have one of these kits that I haven’t opened yet. I take it those tail lights are molded in, not separate pieces? The ones in the ‘64 lowrider I did were separate, but so over-sized and un-uniform, that I wound up making my own.?

Thats correct Greg, molded in. Kinda sucks?

Thought came to me...if not building it factory stock,  I could drill out the taillights and make some. How did you make the ones for the '64??

Edited February 2, 2023 by TransAmMike

[NOBLNG]

16 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Thats correct Greg, molded in. Kinda sucks?

Thought came to me...if not building it factory stock,  I could drill out the taillights and make some. How did you make the ones for the '64??

It was an ordeal!? I detailed it fairly well in my build thread.

 

[dragstk]

I might be a little late to the party...But you could paint the center section/tail lights with lacquer paint (my personal favorite here is Green Stuff World Chrome metal). Let that good and dry. Then paint the area with acrylic red of your choice. And before its completely dry (let it set up a bit), with some water/acylic thinner, use a q tip and rub off the parts you want to be silver.

[TransAmMike]

13 hours ago, dragstk said:

I might be a little late to the party...But you could paint the center section/tail lights with lacquer paint (my personal favorite here is Green Stuff World Chrome metal). Let that good and dry. Then paint the area with acrylic red of your choice. And before its completely dry (let it set up a bit), with some water/acylic thinner, use a q tip and rub off the parts you want to be silver.

Thanks for the suggestion Jeff.  I recently got a bottle of the GSW Chrome for air brushing but have not tried it yet. Do you have the brushable Chrome?

[dragstk]

The Green Stuff World paint comes in air brush and brush paint. I have only tried the brush on type, but have sprayed it. It can be brushed, but you have to lay it on kinda thick. But it self levels. The chrome finish is better being sprayed though.

It takes several hours to dry but seems pretty durable , much better than the usual culprits. Its not exactly as good as Alclad or Spastic, but really close. And since you can handle it better, its a winner for me

[TransAmMike]

Thanks Jeff.  I like the results of Molotow when sprayed but even the lightest touch kills the shine...Molotow being one of the "usual culprits"?