3D 1953 Studebaker pickup + MPC 1984 GMC 4WD

[89AKurt]

19 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Nice progress!? The wheelbase and stance looks good now.?

Thank you.

Before my hike, got the exhaust tips on.  Needed to wrap aluminum tape around the solder to make a tight fit.  Also added screws to hold the interior tub in place without having to glue and break apart.

Front anti-sway bar, the kit part was not going to cut it.  I thought it was odd how it was off center too.

Used the ditched spring perch blocks for the mounts.  Figured out the bends by test fitting.  Smashed the ends with the pliers.  Glued blocks on the spring bolt plate, I figured that would be a good place to weld connection points.  Not drilling for bolts, I'll never get done if I go overboard.

Couldn't leave the rear shocks alone, since the front ones have the steel wire shaft.  They were too long anyway, need to have room for the gas tank.  Found springs that fit, other than cutting shorter.  Punched disks for the spring supports.

[89AKurt]

Used the woodshop to cut Corian® for the gas tank.   Most cuts were done with the table saw, then the crosscut saw.  Final surfacing was done with the bench disk sander, this step was to get the thinner slab to size (anything more than 1/2" needs another slab glued on).

Glued Top Studio photo-etch weld beads on the corners that were beveled.   Mount tabs, and filler neck made from kit exhaust pipe finished this part.  I'm thinking of making a turned aluminum gas cap, that will be on the fender.

Hood hinge, the real thing is levers that rotate the hood when opening.  I don't have watch maker skills, but I used a 100 year old fusee chain.  Getting a locator block on the curved hood was a challenge, which has a groove where the chain was glued on, then an aluminum plate angle over that to make a secure attachment.  Holes are drilled in the firewall, where the chain will be glued into for final assembly.  I will make a wire prop rod.

[espo]

This chassis is model all by itself. Like seeing how you replicate all of the fine suspension details.  

[89AKurt]

On 3/28/2023 at 9:05 AM, espo said:

This chassis is model all by itself. Like seeing how you replicate all of the fine suspension details.  

Thanks David!

Last night I fine tuned some of the things I made, not worth taking pictures or describing.  Started on detailing the tailgate area.  Used the Dremel to create a recess for the newspaper printing plate, then a file.  But first a thicker aluminum part was glued into a saw cut groove, that the chain will connect to.  Then one of the latch plates made from plastic because it's easier to make an elongated hole.  Then glued on a strip of aluminum, filled the seam with superglue and baking soda.  Sanded down the inside of the tailgate to reduce the thickness, then glued on the brass rod for the rolled top edge, the gap filled with superglue and baking soda.  Then sanded the ends down the thickness of the plastic edge which has the other half of the latch plate.

I was planning to paint a tan color, but the more I refer to this real pickup, the more I want to paint turquoise.

[NOBLNG]

Yeah, nice work on that suspension and steering. I kinda like that turquoise too.?

[89AKurt]

8 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Yeah, nice work on that suspension and steering. I kinda like that turquoise too.?

Thanks for checking in.

Think I'm getting close to transitioning to the interior, running out of exterior details. ?  Turned an aluminum gas cap, for one thing.  Since the giant spare tire dominates the bed, added a mount that works!  The grey disk is from the scrap box VW Bus parts, aluminum tube fits inside the styrene tube, brass rod twist handle.  I was going to use the Fireball Modelworks farm jack on another project.

Aluminum rod used for the roll bar.  Made proper mounts on the frame, with aluminum tube so I can adjust the height.  Made a wood form to bend the curve correctly.

Used a kit accessory light to have a backup/cargo light, bent a thick aluminum C mount.  The hoop will be a little higher than this picture shows.

Punched a steel disk that is glued at the bottom of the big tube.  A magnet is inside a small PVC tube that is inside the aluminum tube.

I'm better at taking pictures, than doing video.  This shows how it works.

 

[89AKurt]

Got the other side of the bed detail done.  Duplicating exactly is an impossible task for me.  This picture shows the recess that the 2 MM wide aluminum strip is glued into.

Turned aluminum rod gas cap, Tamiya putty where it's needed.

Tailgate hinge is done.  Guitar string wire, which will be trimmed during final assembly.

Stake pockets, used a new tool to carve the square holes.

This shows how the roll bar is mounted, and the gas tank with filler neck made from kit exhaust pipe.  Started on the interior, the steering column is plastic tubing over a brass rod, then aluminum tube that has a shirt pin for the shift lever, and wire for the turn signal.  I'm sure the seat will be narrowed more.

[89AKurt]

This morning I reworked the taillights that came off a junkyard GMC General truck.  Brackets made from newspaper printing plate; guitar string will be bent during final assembly, to be the wiring in conduit.

Solder wire used for seat piping.

Took a break, learned how to drive a Model T.

Now for the big job with the interior, made a cardboard pattern of the door.  Cut .03" styrene with the hot-wire, then scribed the door lines, very easy because they are straight.  The upper door panel was cut from .015" styrene with a knife; drilled holes in the corners then cut out the center, drilled shallow holes where screws are.  The top is .02" styrene.  Where the latch handle and window crank are, there is a shallow cone, wasn't sure how to make that.  Tried a kit light bucket, chucked in the cordless drill, roughed with the Dremel, then sanding sticks.  Cut the circle using the steel circle template, sanded the back down until it was good enough.  Hope I can blend in with judicious sanding.

Not doing the recess below, won't see it.  Arm rest should be easy enough.  Making the levers will be fun, might just cut my toenails. ?  That's when I will cut off the outside door handles.

[NOBLNG]

I bet that was fun driving that Model T!? Nice work on the tailgate and I like your spare tire mount…ingenious indeed.?

[David G.]

WOW! Quite the adventure you've been on with this one!

Spectacular engineering and fabrication work!

David G.

[89AKurt]

10 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I bet that was fun driving that Model T!? Nice work on the tailgate and I like your spare tire mount…ingenious indeed.?

Thank you!  It was.

9 hours ago, David G. said:

WOW! Quite the adventure you've been on with this one!

Spectacular engineering and fabrication work!

David G.

Thank you David.  Yea, long trip, are we there yet?

Today it was fixing a pet peeve, found on many models, the blind look.  I have Subaru rally lights left over from my Cannonball project, I might buy more of these kits just for the lights. ?  My OCD couldn't handle a subtle detail, the profile of the fenders around the headlights, it's hard to pick up on drawings.  The more I looked at pictures of the real thing, the more things I noticed to add, such as the trailing edge of the front wheel arch which dips down, it was today when I saw that.  There is also something, don't know the purpose, thought it was a patch or repair, but all these trucks have it, see if anyone notices.
What I started with:

Left side profile, and fender extension which is pieces cut from the GMC firewall.

First headlight done.

Self explanatory.

Final shape.

Took more pictures of each step, knowing I didn't screw it up. ?
Roughed out the shape, and made the hole, with the Dremel.

Removed the inside far as I dared.  Marked with a pencil to help guide where to go.  After using the round needle file, wrapped sandpaper around the Xacto handle to finalize the headlight hole.

The Subie headlight was sanded down from the front edge, and around the perimeter, and beveled at the top.  When I glued in, did only a drop at the top and bottom, when it was stuck, slathered glue around the inside perimeter and dumped on baking soda.  I had broken through the outside, could have left as a rust hole, but instead filled with superglue/baking soda.

DONE!  Since the bezel trim is molded on, I have no choice other than paint it and the reflector chrome.  Had to cut the radiator support for the bucket.

[89AKurt]

Interior major components are done.  The more I'm stuffing into this, the tighter the fit between the chassis and body is getting.  The other door panel is done, and made armrests.  The dashboard is .1" styrene, with .02" on top that goes to the windshield.  Ground off the molded on parking brake pedal, will make pull handle like what the Studebaker has.  Evaluating how the steering wheel is located.  Dash details, door handles, little light, seatbelts, maybe a heater box, still need to be done.

Finally feels like I'm close, tilted up for a mockup.  Debating about the cargo/backup light position.  What I see needs to be done, saw off door handles, jack mounts, tailgate chain, use the kit steps, license plate light, gas filler grommet.  Make mud flaps?

I can't get the front bumper off, glue won't let go, won't be fun masking to paint it different than the chassis.  Still need orange turn signals, winch details, windshield wipers, glass, and finally the hood ornament.  

Edited April 3, 2023 by 89AKurt

[David G.]

Excellent work on the headlights Kurt!

I don't think I would noticed that fender detail myself. Heck, I could barely see it after you pointed it out!  

The interior is shaping up nicely, I imagine having such a simple dashboard to replicate helps immensely.

I cast my vote for mud flaps, I see it with the classic Yosemite Sam "Back Off!" ones.

 

 

David G.

[89AKurt]

3 hours ago, David G. said:

Excellent work on the headlights Kurt!

I don't think I would noticed that fender detail myself. Heck, I could barely see it after you pointed it out!  

The interior is shaping up nicely, I imagine having such a simple dashboard to replicate helps immensely.

I cast my vote for mud flaps, I see it with the classic Yosemite Sam "Back Off!" ones.

 

 

David G.

Thanks, I love it!   When I get the kit box shrinked to scale, could print the mudflaps.

[89AKurt]

Found another picture of the mud flaps, original font.

Dashboard is simple, except for the center panels.  Found a door panel from the '62? Chevy, which is close enough.

Cut apart with the hot-wire.

Solder wire used to fake the edge.  The glovebox and instrument panel are flat, I didn't bother tapering like the real thing.  Punched out disks for the gauges, eyeballed the locations when glued on.  Picked some shirt pins for knobs.

The control panel is amusing.

[David G.]

Impressive work as always Kurt! 

I like Studebaker's approach to a lighted instrument panel! ? 

I'm glad that you like my suggestion for the mud flaps. Do you plan to make matching floor mats?

David G.

[catpack68]

Excellent work! Looking forward to seeing more updates on it?

Edited April 4, 2023 by catpack68

[89AKurt]

3 hours ago, David G. said:

Impressive work as always Kurt! 

I like Studebaker's approach to a lighted instrument panel! ? 

I'm glad that you like my suggestion for the mud flaps. Do you plan to make matching floor mats?

David G.

Thank you for the suggestion, never would have thought of it.   No on the floor mats, that would mean having to do separate pedals, since the doors don't open, not worth the effort.   I have a plan for the floor......

1 hour ago, catpack68 said:

Excellent work!  Looking  forward to seeing more updates on it?

Thank you.  I'm looking forward to it more than you! ?

[Chariots of Fire]

Coming together nicely!  Lots of great detail and for a unique subject.  Thanks for sharing!?

[89AKurt]

On 4/4/2023 at 12:04 PM, Chariots of Fire said:

Coming together nicely!  Lots of great detail and for a unique subject.  Thanks for sharing!?

Thank you, and for taking a look and the kind comment.

Picking away at the body.  Trying out a new photo-etch saw, door handle is removed.

The hood wasn't matching the cowl very well.

Ran under hot water to bend some arc into it.  Wet-sanded the hood too, removed the wood grain.  I'm going to glue a ledge on the cowl, so the hood never sags down.

Something most kits of this era of pickups don't have, the roof to back of the cab has a seam.  Stuck a narrow strip of Scotch tape at a pencil line to run the scriber along, making short strokes.  Then I used the other scriber (another new tool), pushed like a chisel, which straightened the line.  Finished with fine steel wool.  Added Grandt Line bolts to the brush guard.  The radiator support has been getting whittled down.

There are faint lips on the fender arches, so I used 0.03" styrene cut with the hot-wire.  After gluing on, roughed to shape with the Dremel, then sanding sticks.  Also added rain gutters, started with wide 0.02" styrene strips.

Think that's it for the OCD details.  ?  Need to sand the rest of the body smooth.  Made a list yesterday of what else needs to get done, hoping it will keep me focused, and not feel overwhelmed.

[magicmustang]

4 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Thank you, and for taking a look and the kind comment.

Picking away at the body.  Trying out a new photo-etch saw, door handle is removed.

The hood wasn't matching the cowl very well.

Ran under hot water to bend some arc into it.  Wet-sanded the hood too, removed the wood grain.  I'm going to glue a ledge on the cowl, so the hood never sags down.

Something most kits of this era of pickups don't have, the roof to back of the cab has a seam.  Stuck a narrow strip of Scotch tape at a pencil line to run the scriber along, making short strokes.  Then I used the other scriber (another new tool), pushed like a chisel, which straightened the line.  Finished with fine steel wool.  Added Grandt Line bolts to the brush guard.  The radiator support has been getting whittled down.

There are faint lips on the fender arches, so I used 0.03" styrene cut with the hot-wire.  After gluing on, roughed to shape with the Dremel, then sanding sticks.  Also added rain gutters, started with wide 0.02" styrene strips.

Think that's it for the OCD details.  ?  Need to sand the rest of the body smooth.  Made a list yesterday of what else needs to get done, hoping it will keep me focused, and not feel overwhelmed.

Man, I don't think a real Studebaker truck looked this accurate. Really nice work.

[David G.]

I love all the little details you add to your builds Kurt.

David G.

[Chariots of Fire]

Keep doing things one at a time and you won't be overwhelmed with the project.  I once read that doing every little piece as if it were a model unto itself helps to keep things in perspective.

[89AKurt]

Yes, it's been working for me.  Mudflap mounts are done, paper size based on a couple of flaps found on eBay.

Back to the hood, prop rod added, newspaper printing plate mount, and the keeper on the hood.  Also added magnets at the front, with steel plates on the hood.  Made a battery tray, and a mount for the bottle (what it represents I don't know).  Simple detail, a cover for the back of the instrument panel.  There is a mystery part, can't find in the instructions, with the ?

Sanded the body with sanding sticks and sandpaper.  I'll spray a quick coat of primer to make sure I got everywhere.  The kit steps are added, made mounts to hang them lower are made from a cut up kit part.  I'm working on the scratch-built parts, by sanding, gluing, refining, as I'm taking it apart to prepare for painting.

[David G.]

Excellent progress Kurt!

Could the mystery part be a heater box?

David G.