Airfix 1/12 Bentley Blower

Bugatti Fan · May 18, 2024

This has been an incredibly interesting build to follow and shows what a master modeller li!e Francois is can do with an elderly kit.

I am looking forward to seeing the next project, your Pocher Rolls Royce renovation.

Regarding thin leather for upholstery, a number of years ago I bought a batch of assorted off cuts of thin ladies glove leather from a UK factory named Pittards. They sold off cuts in mixed bundles for people into the leather craft hobby. For the Rolls it might be worth looking to see if any US or Canadian glove factory does the same.

François · May 20, 2024

On 3/27/2024 at 4:12 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

That beat up old Pocher Rolls looks interesting Francois.

You might find John Haddock's website JDH Models a really useful source of information about the Pocher Rolls that he built and super detailed. John is well into 3D design like yourself.

Also, there is a company named Scale Motorcars who specialise in old Pocher replacement parts etc. HTH.

Thank you for the tip Bugatti fan, I contacted John Haddock and he gave me some very nice original drawings of the Phantom engine. I now have all I need to make a working valve train... eventually. I just need to finish the bentley first.

Bugatti Fan · May 21, 2024

John and yourself take modelling to a completely higher level than most of us as you are both very good at 3D programming and printing all those intricate details for your models, even the working internal parts.

I thought that you would get on well with John as you both have a similar approach to your builds. I can see more collaboration between you both in the future.

Those Rolls engine drawings look very interesting Francois. It is always good to refer to factory originals.

Edited May 21, 2024 by Bugatti Fan

Big John · May 21, 2024

Do they have the correct cam lobe profiles and sequence?

François · May 21, 2024

John, not sure on both but I don't think the lobe profile is all that important for this. If I can get movement of the valve I'll consider it a victory even if they don't open or close at the correct time during the stroke. As for the sequence, John Haddock seems to have a good sequence description in his doc. I didn't take the time to verify it yet but I'm confident it is ok.

Edited May 22, 2024 by François

François · May 23, 2024

I made a few more soft top test and with each try, I'm getting closer to something I like. It's a game of compromise, I want a material that looks good but it also needs to be thin and soft enough to fold down.

This first test was made using a black coton canvas that looks really good but is a bit stiff.

The second test I made with a thinner and softer black polyester and coton blend. It fits better but is a bit sheer.

The toughest part is to figure out the shape and where to make the seams.

François · May 24, 2024

Here is the third soft top test. I think I got the shape and the assembly method. Instead of making it out of one piece like the previous tops, I made this one out of 3. One center piece front to back and 2 side pieces. I think it give the top a cleaner line and the joint are more like the real top. I'm still not 100% satisfied with the glue up. I'm using a glue called Speed-sew, it really works well but any overspills are just about none removable. So I might redo it one last time being more careful of the glue application. I still need to figure out how l will attach it to the front bar and to the rear.

Top up

And down

François · May 28, 2024

I made the rear window for the top. I printed a window surround and also cut a plastic window.

Then I drilled a 0.6mm dia hole in the center of the foldable frame pivot screws and inserted a small brass nail to simulate a snap to hold down the sides of the soft top.

And finally I drilled small holes on the end of the tub and inserted brass nails thru the soft top to hold it in place. Now all that is left to do is to glue the front of the top to the header bar.

François · May 28, 2024

I found a drawing of à bentley with the top up and it's a bit different from what I made.

Since I couldn't find any pictures showing my ref car with the top up, I decided to modify my top to look a bit more like the drawing. As a bonus, it will better show the foldable top frame.

François · May 29, 2024

The soft top is finished. I'll eventually make a cover for it when it is down. The final step will be the dashboard but I might take a little break before. In the meantime, here are some pictures of the car so far.

Edited May 29, 2024 by François

Anglia105E · May 29, 2024

Brilliant work on the soft top Francois, and I can see that was not an easy task . . . You deserve the break having got this far !

Nice set of photos . . .

David

François · June 8, 2024

Ok, break's over, time to finish this thing. I completed the 3d model of the dashboard. Nick, from Britmodeler, gave me his gauge facia art work. I'll send him some 3d files of a few parts I'm pretty sure he did not model yet in exchange. So that's one problem solved. The next hurdle is the dash aluminium face plate. It has an engine turning pattern on it. I came up with a (possible) solution to create the pattern without the aid of sophisticated equipement such as a milling machine or cnc. I designed a multi stage jig that should help me do the pattern manually. More on that later on.

Here is the completed 3d model of the dashboard.

A real dashboard

I also made the last of the 3 filler spouts.

Bugatti Fan · June 8, 2024

Almost there Francois! Great model making that you have been sharing with us.

Nice to see your cooperation with Nick sharing 3D files as well. Two brilliant modellers working together.

The jig you are making for doing engine turned patterns sounds very interesting and will be looking out for that.

François · June 11, 2024

Ok, dashboard update time.

I've read alot about engine turning and one thing I've learned is that at this scale, it's call jewelling or 'perlage' in french and is a finish found on high end watches. Engine turning for much larger applications. Both methods are identical except jewelling will requier a very small tool. Here's what jewelling looks like.

My idea of a multi stage jig didn't work, it was too complicated. The idea was to have a plate that held an aluminium sheet in place while also locating the different drilling jig, 4 in all (thus the multi stage). Each drill jig had a different hole pattern that guided the jewelling tool. Once all 4 jig used, I would have the jewelling pattern. The main problem was that the holes could only receive a certain diameter tool. A change in diameter meant 4 new jig to reprint. It was also difficult to see what I was doing.

Here's the jig

Instead, I designed a simple 2 part tooling. A lower plate that has .09" dia pins spaced at .72" (8×.09) intervals and a upper plate that has a .09" diameter notch every .09". A total of 33 notchs. Why a .09" pitch? I wanted a pattern that would look good at 1/12 scale so I opted for .09". The tooling is mounted on my small xy table. So by moving the upper plate from notch to notch, I create a line of jewelling exactly spaced by .09". Once a row is done, I move the 'X' and 'Y' axis by half a pitch (.045") and start another row. With this method, the tool diameter is less important since it doesn't have to fit in a hole.

Here's the fixture. (It's printed in clear resin)

I made several jewelling tool test. I tried a fine grit sand paper glued to the end of a steel dowel but it was very difficult to get the right pressure. I tried a wooden dowel, same difficulty. I then tried a very old and dried up pencil eraser and that seemed to work. But it was too big. After a bit of research, I found a eraser pencil. It's a pencil that has an eraser core instead of a lead core. It can be easily sharpen to get the point diameter I want.

Here's the eraser pencil( the gray is the eraser)

and here's the setup in action

And the final result

I then applied a paper template on it to drill all the gage mounting holes and to pre trim.

I printed a profiling jig to get the final shape by following the outside of the jig.

and after profiling

The the final result

So this is how I made a jewelled (engine turned) dashboard plate without sophisticated machinery.

absmiami · June 11, 2024

Thats really cool …

kensar · June 11, 2024

Nice looking engine turning.

Can you tell me more about the X-Y table? Where you got it and the height from the bottom of the base to the top of the table?

François · June 11, 2024

Kensar, I bought it on Amazon 2 years ago. A bit cheap but it works for me. It's 78mm from under base to top of Table.

TEXALAN Multifunction Worktable Milling Working Cross Table Compound Drilling Slide Table for Bench Drill Adjustment X-Y 310X90MM

Big John · June 11, 2024

Outstanding results Francois. Thanks for the demo, I bet the erasure pencil would be soft enough for BMF too.

François · June 13, 2024

All the dashboard parts are printed and painted. All that is left to do is to cut the gage facia, install them and to glue all the components in place. Here's a few pictures.

The gage facia artwork ready to be cut (again, thanks to Nick from Britmodeller)

and a few shots of the dashboard assembly ( not glued up yet)

And the real thing

François · June 14, 2024

Well, the dashboard is done and with it, so is this build. Took me a little over 1 year but I think it was well worth the effort. I still need to finish the display case and to do a good dusting of the model. I'll eventually take some nicer pictures of the complete setup but until then, here are a few shots of the finished dashboard.

Vs the real thing

thank you for following my build, hope you enjoyed it.

absmiami · June 14, 2024

You are welcome - and you saved the best for last -

Pierre Rivard · June 14, 2024

Extraordinary build Francois. You have proven that with with immense talent, creativity, persistence, combined with 3D printing technology, the perfect model can be crafted.

The best I have ever seen, period!