1955 Chevy Nomad

[Zippi]

29 minutes ago, slusher said:

I don’t know why I bother Bob…

?

[Zippi]

I wet sanded the body & spoon with 2000 grit and did a little test shot with some clear this morning even though the humidity is a little to high.  This was just a test to see if the grainy look would cover up with the Tamiya X-22 clear.  It looks pretty good and should look better on a day with less humidity and polished out.    

Edited July 27, 2023 by Zippi

[TransAmMike]

Yep my Friend, looks good. 

[Zippi]

40 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Yep my Friend, looks good. 

Thanks Buddy.  I appreciate ya.

[Wolf]

Hi Bob,

Not to overstate the obvious but there’s definitely something wrong. I’ve been decanting Tamiya’s lacquer spray paints for years now and have never experienced the grainy finish you have. One thing you mentioned is that you sprayed the decanted paint without adding thinner. From experience, I always thin it a bit more with lacquer thinner before it goes into the airbrush. I’ve also found that warming the paint up a bit before spraying helps it level out much nicer. Put the container you’ve put the decanted and thinned paint in to some nice warm water for a few minutes beforehand. I use a small glass dish filled with water and set on a coffee cup warmer.

Judging from your photo I don’t think your clear coat is going to hide the rough texture of your base paint. You’ll either have to sand/polish it out more or strip and start again. I also use Tamiya’s Fine White primer as you have so that’s definitely not part of the problem unless the primer finish wasn’t smooth as well.

This is the front fender of a 1/12 Tamiya bike I’m working on using Tamiya’s TS-95 Pure Metallic Red decanted, thinned, and sprayed over their white primer.

I hope you don’t mind me butting in on your thread. Good luck with your Nomad. My favourite year too.

Cheers,     
Wolf

 

[Zippi]

55 minutes ago, Wolf said:

Hi Bob,

Not to overstate the obvious but there’s definitely something wrong. I’ve been decanting Tamiya’s lacquer spray paints for years now and have never experienced the grainy finish you have. One thing you mentioned is that you sprayed the decanted paint without adding thinner. From experience, I always thin it a bit more with lacquer thinner before it goes into the airbrush. I’ve also found that warming the paint up a bit before spraying helps it level out much nicer. Put the container you’ve put the decanted and thinned paint in to some nice warm water for a few minutes beforehand. I use a small glass dish filled with water and set on a coffee cup warmer.

Judging from your photo I don’t think your clear coat is going to hide the rough texture of your base paint. You’ll either have to sand/polish it out more or strip and start again. I also use Tamiya’s Fine White primer as you have so that’s definitely not part of the problem unless the primer finish wasn’t smooth as well.

This is the front fender of a 1/12 Tamiya bike I’m working on using Tamiya’s TS-95 Pure Metallic Red decanted, thinned, and sprayed over their white primer.

I hope you don’t mind me butting in on your thread. Good luck with your Nomad. My favourite year too.

Cheers,     
Wolf

 

Thanks Wolf.  The Tamiya white surface primer was smooth.  After decanting the paint and letting it set a few days is was still pretty thin.  So thin that it needed no thinner.  I sprayed it at about 20 psi with 3 light coats and two med coats letting it flash about 5 min between coat.  The humidity that morning was 56% if memory serves me correct.  This was my first time decanting paint and shooting it through my airbrush so I was not sure what to expect so at this point I'm not sure what happened.  Maybe the TS paints like to go on wet instead of the way I sprayed it.

[Wolf]

Hi Bob, 

I would still thin it a bit. Put on light coats to get your coverage and then spray it on wet. Thinning it a bit more helps it to atomize better. Obviously you’re going to have to play around with it a bit more to get what works best for you in your climate. If you have an old paint mule it would be an ideal way to experiment.

Cheers,    
Wolf

[Zippi]

2 hours ago, Wolf said:

Hi Bob, 

I would still thin it a bit. Put on light coats to get your coverage and then spray it on wet. Thinning it a bit more helps it to atomize better. Obviously you’re going to have to play around with it a bit more to get what works best for you in your climate. If you have an old paint mule it would be an ideal way to experiment.

Cheers,    
Wolf

I hear ya Wolf.  I experimented most of last summer with paint and don't car to go back there.  If once I put the clear on and it's not to my liking I'll just strip it and move on I guess.

[Wolf]

Bob,

I’m waving my lucky rabbit’s foot in your direction. It’ll all work out fine now.

Cheers,    
Wolf

[Zippi]

2 minutes ago, Wolf said:

Bob,

I’m waving my lucky rabbit’s foot in your direction. It’ll all work out fine now.

Cheers,    
Wolf

Haha...I think I need a rabbits foot, 4 leaf clover, and a whole lot more.

[slusher]

On 7/27/2023 at 8:13 AM, Zippi said:

?

 well now I know how you feel about my comments on your threads…

Edited July 29, 2023 by slusher
Changed reply.

[Zippi]

5 hours ago, slusher said:

 well now I know how you feel about my comments on your threads…

Sorry man.  Just hard to keep up.

[Zippi]

I got out in the garage this morning taking a look at the paint on the 55 and made a decision.  

[ModelcarJR]

Good call, Bob! After almost 30 years of painting and building, I have yet to diagnose what happened to a paint job after the fact. Some work out fine and some don't. I'm sure your next shot at this one will be fine! ?

[Zippi]

58 minutes ago, ModelcarJR said:

Good call, Bob! After almost 30 years of painting and building, I have yet to diagnose what happened to a paint job after the fact. Some work out fine and some don't. I'm sure your next shot at this one will be fine! ?

Thanks John.  I already have the engine built and painted the maroon.  There are no other maroon colors available locally except a wine color in the Anita's craft pain.  I'm heading out to get a bottle now.

[espo]

It hurts to have to strip a paint job, but sometimes it's best to start over and not try and keep covering a paint job that goes bad. The color does look good though. 

[Zippi]

31 minutes ago, espo said:

It hurts to have to strip a paint job, but sometimes it's best to start over and not try and keep covering a paint job that goes bad. The color does look good though. 

I hear ya David.  Just got back from HL and picked up some paint that might be a good replacement.

[bobthehobbyguy]

I think the issue with the decanted Tamiya paints is that the final coats need to be wet. The technique is mist coats to start and then wet final coats.

[Zippi]

2 hours ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

I think the issue with the decanted Tamiya paints is that the final coats need to be wet. The technique is mist coats to start and then wet final coats.

Thanks.  I may play around with it down the road.

[OldNYJim]

On 7/29/2023 at 6:46 AM, Zippi said:

Sorry man.  Just hard to keep up.

Yeah, you have to reply to all those comments otherwise you get a passive aggressive response back ?

Question: when you got the body out of the dunk-tank had that paint pitted the surface or was it smooth still?  That lumpy finish looked a bit like the paint being too hot for the styrene, perhaps…

Wicked Colors is easy to lay down though, very forgiving…but it WILL need a primer for proper adhesion

[Zippi]

I hear ya.  I'll probably use the Tamiya gray surface primer.  

[Andy Oldenburg]

Hi Bob, this project is starting good! Those cool wheels just have to fit, they will give you the extra points in the end. Waiting for the next pics.

[Zippi]

35 minutes ago, Andy Oldenburg said:

Hi Bob, this project is starting good! Those cool wheels just have to fit, they will give you the extra points in the end. Waiting for the next pics.

Thanks Andreas.  I hit a road block with having to strip the paint and it's not going as planned.  

[Zippi]

I thought the 91% Isopropyl Alcohol would remove this Tamiya TS rattle can paint.  This is the second morning I've pulled it out of the tank and went over it with a toothbrush but it doesn't seem to be doing much.  Maybe I was thinking about the Tamiya acrylic paint I normally use.  I did get the Torque Thrust wheels and headers airbrushed with the Molotow chrome.

Edited July 31, 2023 by Zippi

[SpikeSchumacher]

Hi Bob, I have had success using Castrol Super Clean to remove Tamiya rattle can paint. It does take a bit though...