Visible lasers as modeling tools

[slownlow]

iI struggled to keep things straight and true on a belly tanker as it has no corners or true circles.  Then I remembered a laser I had from days gone by. This was a Fat Max brand but any laser, even a cat toy, would work.  I traced out the profile on paper and established a center line front to back. Then as components where built their dimension’s be laid out on the paper. Then a line struck at 90 degrees. Now the tanker can be positioned and the laser lined up to transfer the marks to the castings.

[atomicholiday]

That is a great idea.👍

[NOBLNG]

Very clever! 👍

[midlineqb]

Like this idea!

[peteski]

Yes, that looks quite useful.

But laser pointers or cat toys emit a single narrow laser beam which results in a point of light.  It seems that what you are using is one of the lasers which projects a line (like a laser level).

[slownlow]

19 minutes ago, peteski said:

Yes, that looks quite useful.

But laser pointers or cat toys emit a single narrow laser beam which results in a point of light.  It seems that what you are using is one of the lasers which projects a line (like a laser level).

You’re right it does need a line projected. The nice thing about the laser shown is it self levels. No need to fuss with getting it level before turning it on.

[TarheelRick]

Excellent idea, seems like it will also work to verify symmetry when doing custom work: makes sure custom headlights are even with each other, things like that. Thanks for the tip. I bought one from Harbor Freight that has a magnetic base and is designed to be stuck to the tool being used, such as a power saw.  There are two problems with this: 1. most circular/power saws have aluminum bodies, 2. if it is attached to the saw then one slight bobble of the saw will move the laser line in line with the bobble and you are off the mark.  But I think it should work for this since there is no movement involved.

[slownlow]

2 hours ago, TarheelRick said:

Excellent idea, seems like it will also work to verify symmetry when doing custom work: makes sure custom headlights are even with each other, things like that. Thanks for the tip. I bought one from Harbor Freight that has a magnetic base and is designed to be stuck to the tool being used, such as a power saw.  There are two problems with this: 1. most circular/power saws have aluminum bodies, 2. if it is attached to the saw then one slight bobble of the saw will move the laser line in line with the bobble and you are off the mark.  But I think it should work for this since there is no movement involved.

I can see how it would be a problem with a hand held saw but I’ve used compound miter saws with them and they help there. 

[Ulf]

Great idea, thanks for sharing.

This is how I solved the problem this time, I also had trouble keeping the coupe as if yours is like a lemon, mine is like a pear. The plate is foam board as well as the blocks on which the chassis rests, cheap, light and quiet, a little damping which was unexpectedly good. Now I can take reference measurements with one.

Edited December 20, 2023 by Ulf
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On 12/20/2023 at 10:43 AM, Ulf said:

Great idea, thanks for sharing.

This is how I solved the problem this time, I also had trouble keeping the coupe as if yours is like a lemon, mine is like a pear. The plate is foam board as well as the blocks on which the chassis rests, cheap, light and quiet, a little damping which was unexpectedly good. Now I can take reference measurements with one.

 

Ulf, Thats a great Idea, I use the grid paper too. I lay it on a piece of 0.125" X 9" X 12" Cold Rolled Steel that I can use magnets, machinist's blocks, and small angle irons to get things squared up with everything else. It's the next best thing to a chassis table, which yours looks the part as well. As long as you use a stable flat (or dead flat) surface to base everything else off of and carry that into going vertical things are going to stay that way. Granted, most of us never, ever went to such an extent with our models when we were a whole lot younger, for the most part they looked OK. However, this type of system is what is used in a model shop where they turn out museum quality work, nothing wrong with adding precision into the mix to get a better model in the end!