Ulf

Rarely have you heard a car manufacturer speak so relaxed and openly without filters, YouTube's translation function will help you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMPTxmI2_t0

I held a 3D printed Duett (210) body in my hand last year (someone else bought it before me) and it really wasn't ready for painting right away, but the shape of the body is quite forgiving for sanding actually. The orange one you posted was originally ordered by Televerket, the state telephone company, they had the little squeezy extra side window on the right side. I realize now that I probably missed looking at whether the characteristic threshold box was correct as in the picture but it can be fixed yourself. PV444: Introduced in 1947, the PV444 was one of Volvo's first volume models. It had a simple, robust design and quickly became popular. Self-supporting body. PV544: An updated version of the PV444 launched in 1958. It had a more modern design, including an arched windshield, and was offered with stronger engines. Self-supporting body. Volvo Duett (PV445 & P210): PV445: Based on the PV444 chassis and launched in 1953, it was available as a station wagon, a van and in smaller numbers as a chassis for special bodies. Separate frame, the pickups have very short doors = larger bed. In fact, I think the pickups cabs are made by other smaller workshops. The first picture is probably a Swedish doodle bug. P210: A later version of the Duett, introduced in 1960. It got the same updated windshield and dashboard as the PV544. Separate frame.

Stockholm Sweden, great store if you like fish.

Look great, perfect truck for a top chop.

Update, I put a chromed part from Round2 directly into Tamiya's lacquer thinner and after 18 hours I just had to brush it lightly with a toothbrush and the chrome flakes flew like light snowflakes. Now I will skip the mess with my decanted oven cleaner as long as the Croweparts fit in the thinnerjar.

Nice, you can save the box by brushing it with Pledge floor polish, I have glued some stiff paper on the inside too.

Thank you for a very good point, I seem to remember reading that the Camaro was made at four different factories and that at two of them the torpedo wall was painted black. Even though they were large series there was variation.

You are absolutely right about this. No discussion about cars being painted black both on top and underneath and models as well but as you write, you can save both chalk white and deep black for extreme accents. In the usual 1/1 life, I run a small lobbying movement against the random use of deep black in the street environment, some have at least listened.

I just learnd that some baby powder in the paint give a suede texture, I have not tried yet.

No but I have decided that from the next project I start to not only write notes about colors and brands but also have a better plan from day one. Circumstances have resulted in me now having a handful( ok ok two) of projects in two locations. A psychologist would probably explain it as a liberation from my structured professional self(retired) that drove questions about project plans and project goals. Today it is frustrating to think about what shade of gray I painted with two or three years ago.

Great that you are up and build. My TROG project has also been put on hold for life due to some health issues and I have ordered myself to build on other things until I am fully back on track.

The big challenge is the joint in the body. My somewhat amateurish advice is to choose good quality two-component adhesives that take a long time (24h) to cure because they are generally better. An episode of the Youtube channel Model Car Muse is about a gentleman who modified diecasts, there you may find some knowledge.

Se my edit.

After the owen cleaner, Tamiya lacquer thinner take the undercoat away over nigth. A Wood toothpick does the last whitout scratching the parts. Edit: I have stripped old Monogram and new Round2 overnight and even a couple of nights without problems but you should probably test with a piece of the sprue to be sure. Happiness is taking parts out of the oven cleaner and see that there was no undercoat..

Very nice build. “I couldn't go to bed with that issue unresolved”, it felt very familiar.

This is how it turned out, I glued the inner box upside down in the outer box before soaking the box in Pledge. A new inner box I made of 2 mm cardboard which also got a layer of Pledge. Now I can fully enjoy the box art. The width of the compartments is just right for zip bags and a small special so that the steering wheel on the steering column can be stored safely during construction.

That it is your favorite car is really understandable, they had much of what we lack today, low weight. Curb weight 907 kg (2,000 lb), not even low power affects the driving feel when a car is so light.

Thank you, I would not have wanted to miss that. First of all, it's great to see how well Steve has recovered but of course it's also great to see the Jo-Han kit being built. Steve builds both very strictly and well while the cars are extreme. His moodboards are something I should probably emulate.

This protractor with grooves to cut into.The straight scale has grooves every 5 mm. Without having tried this tool feels very promising.

Welcome, I saw your builds, very nice.

Cool, don't forget to add another scale to your forum profile.😀

MPC Chevy Chevette

Wow

Just the box, I will repair, reinforce and varnish with Pledge before using it for ongoing projects. It will be so much nicer on the workbench no matter what I build.

The Aluma Coupe and the Chezom tires were known to crack after a short time, unfortunately long enough for many builders to glue the wheels on....