Ulf

Make sure you really get plastic that can be glued with the glue you want to use, I was stupid and bought some round no name styrene profiles instead of Plastruct or Evergreen, sure they were cheaper but my usual Revell glue does not bite and hardly even CA glue.

Your Camaro looks promising, you've done a great job with the lights. The little edge on the front fenders at the side of the lights is easy to miss but your prepping looks very good.

Yes, but no integrated sun visor and thats great.

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Thanks for the feedback, sorry I was a bit unclear, he probably wants to darken the brass. I think I have figured out why the parts have not darkened for him, he has turned pieces out of the good to have box and happened to take a more noble alloy. The vapors from cooked eggs apparently darken the surface. It is easy to take what is at hand when you have flow.

A new and challenging level, this will be fun. This kit gives a new meaning to the phrase a golden age for model car kits.

Does anyone here at MCF have experience, knowledge or tips on how to patinate brass ? The parts are polished and very nice but they don't fit with the rest of my friend's big scale all metal build.

Molded in colour. Stockholm Sweden

Yes, it was Wheels magazine, Hans' Model Corner and Tim's US report were different and yes, I remember that Hans also included your pictures. Pat's US report was continuous for quite some time, as I recall. Not even Deeptranslate translates the Swedish word folkbildning correctly, education of the people becomes a sentence, but having said that, I think it is important to point out that Pat's texts were enlightening, it was not just rim width and how many inches the roof was lowered. Since the USA and Sweden are very different countries and cultures, his texts made a deep impression. For almost fifteen years I freelanced for a chopper magazine and some car magazines and I know since that time that 1. if an issue of Wheels magazine did not have two pages of model car kits the subscribers were disappointed and 2. several other major publishers were jealous of Wheels magazine for their continuous model car kit pages. In short, there is a modeler in almost every car guy. As I recall and now add(edit) many of the street rod and chopper builders had models on their shelves. That I like you, Pat and Hans have had the opportunity to photograph, write and be published is one of the things I am most grateful for in life, it led to a thirty years profession (another) and at one time a new employment but that is another story. I will take some pictures if I find an old issue of Wheels magazine.

Great weathering, you have a unique style. The difference (rust) between different panels is spot on.

Pat was a very, very good editor. He wrote in a Swedish car magazine in the late 70s-early 80s, it was pure education, US report something. Among other things, he wrote about NNL, it was the first time I ever read something adult about car kits. Although there was no time or peace then, that text has been safely saved in the memory and popped up sometimes when there was a gap.

The sound of a healthy small block on the street outside added to our delicious breakfast.

Very good, I am very fond of 60-70-80's Peugeot pickups, your Nova feels very obvious as an American equivalent.

Finally, really worth the wait.

Stockholm Sweden long time ago, old plates, new plates came 1972. Try som FB like, https://www.facebook.com/groups/122489487765758/

Even though AMT has a central place in my heart, I am open to the idea that Revell/Monograms are a bit better, one argument for this is that Steve Boutte started from Revell/Monograms and it ended up in Rodders Journal. If you look on Facebook, Steve Boutte Kustoms, there are probably construction pictures.

Stylish notes

WOW ! I’m in.

Interesting, I have only worked with low air speeds and differences in speed between parallel air streams, but if you have the opportunity to measure a Jaguar E-type coupe in both directions, it would be nice to know if there is an ounce of truth in the expression that it has a better Cw value when reversing.

Daylight is your best friend. Daylight also reveals whether the stance is right.

I made the right decision when I decided to retire this year. 🙂

Very good interior. If you choose the salt method, put a layer of clear varnish first to saturate the salt grains, they otherwise absorb the paint so that there are rings around them with more color and varnish hatches and doors separately so that the salt grains are placed in and around the joints more convincingly.

Thanks for asking the question, as I admire your projects, it's really nice to have the chance to vote. First I read 215 carelessly and thought Buick 215, my dream engine in a model car but then I read again and yes, a inline 6 is so incredibly beautiful so 215 is my vote.

Great build, the car I want most from Revell or Moebius.

Painting with acrylic/water-based paints requires a different technique. Firstly, it needs something to stick to, not only to hold it once it has dried but also when it is applied, a primer. I am currently trying to learn how to brush paint Vallejo's primer. The paint itself has to be applied rather than brushed out if you want to benefit from self-leveling. Is it good, is it fun? It's not fast, but it's getting better and better for me. Vallejo primer in the right color helps because the paint is thin. Our beloved cat has problems with his tear ducts so I do not dare to airbrush even though I have suction etc. but it will have to wait until we get to the summer cottage.