Ulf

Hi David Your house looks great. Interesting that you also chose to build houses in foamboard. I have come to the conclusion that the contact adhesive in the picture works best, but that since it is a contact adhesive, it does not provide any opportunities for adjustments. Vallejo's slightly funny putty works well as well as MIG's structure paste. Regardless of the above, my experience so far is that foamboard is not only much cheaper than plasticard. My previous attempts to build houses in plasticard have been very fragile without being very detailed, brittle and sensitive to impact. My project is based on a card model in a Revell kit but it, like the rest of my projects, will have to wait until the bone is healed.

The love for Monograms kits.

A lot of money but but but if you have a plan, read, dare to ask here on MCF and restrain yourself from impulse buying, it can feel more reasonable. I took a screenshot of your recipe, thanks. Projects that one feels like generally get done.

Could this be something? (I'm lying on the couch with a broken leg in a cast, doing theoretical modeling)

An impressive build, this Tamiya kit is not as many think either a regular Porsche or a shake and bake kit. I know it is difficult to mount the windshield because the glass is insignificantly larger than the opening. You are absolutely right in your admonition not to postpone modeling, it was an essential part of the overall arguments for me to retire earlier (modeling had no place when I was working). Now that I finally have the opportunity, some other conditions for building have also changed but I take it based on the conditions offered. I will follow your build in to Under glass.

I have repaired a broken A-pillar in the upper corner once, if it wasn't a Jo-han Oldsmobile kit I wouldn't have done it, phew what a lot of work ! I sawed a 1/16 groove into the roof actually and glued a piece of flat styrene that was quite hard(plasticard was too soft). When the glue dried I filed to the shape including the edge of the windshield because the roof post was a little thicker. I took a picture just now to show the angle of how I sawed (blue tape), the styrene piece was very well machined at the end that was glued to the post while the other end stuck up so I could hold it with a piang, the paper piece has about the same shape. I then glued with Tenax (much like Tamiya's glue) and filled (sculpted) with Milliput. Was it good or perfect ? It was ok but a vinylroof Mary have hidden some… Give the glue long time to set. Edit: It's not a bit ironic that I was going to write that the bonding is the weakest point much like a broken bone but I didn’t. A couple of hours later I slipped and broke my ankle in two places and now surgery and months of convalescence await. A light in the darkness was all the help I got from people when it happened and the nurses who picked me up in the ambulance. Now I guess I'll plant and fantasize about what to build. The operation next week is to screw stainless steel plate over one of the breaks and screw or two screws to steady it up, in short a bit like my plastic piece across when I mended my Jo-han kit once.

It's a jungle, front axles are an interesting subject, my best advice to not end up where I ended up is to try different ones until it looks harmonious. See the last posts in my attached build thread, I don't want to end up there again, a glued on front axle with no shocks. I'm not completely happy with how it turned out but now it is as it is. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/187992-ford-34-a-street-hot-rod-who-did-not-reach-the-finish-line/ 1932 Ford: Wheelbase : 106.0 in | 2692 mm. Front Track : 55.2 in | 1402 mm. Rear Track : 56.7 in | 1440 mm. ie the middle of the tires. A dropped original axle will be a little narrower when dropped, how much depends on which method and which professional. One factor that affects is actually the wheelbase, many rods have the front axle mounted a little further forward than original and since the frame narrows, it becomes a little more difficult to get this good in 1/25 scale. I have seen a very promising build that is half finished where the builder chose the front axle from Monograms 32 incl hairpins and brake shields, the advantage was according to him that the shock absorbers are molded into the front axle. That build looks very right.

Hi Mike I am in the same situation as you for slightly different reasons, season and sensitive cat mainly. My learning curve with Vallejo is at least pointing upwards, an important insight was that Vallejo's primer, which is available in different colors, is more durable but also a little different from the colors. See picture, the primer is polyurethane. A piece of Tamiya tape on the primer bottles makes it easier to tell them apart in the box…

Fantastic build, a curious question, do you brush the primer too or do you use spray can type Warhammer ?

No kitcrome actually attracts me, Revell may well release their 32s in an ”unplated edition”, u as in Ulf.

Very, if not incredibly interesting, but a little surprising that no pickup truck is in the top ten.

I really appreciate your projects and your articulate answers to our questions. I once talked to a model builder who was dreading the day his life project would be finished. Projects completed over a long period of time often have one thing in common, they have the right stance, that's something you can see if you let it take time.

Life has taught me to avoid criticizing anyone as much as possible, you know so little about your fellow human beings. I left judging others on my desk in my professional life when I left. Model Car Muse every second saturday is a highlight, I like the positive attitude.

Very nicely built, I have followed your build thread and the interior was as I remember it from childhood, incredibly plenty of space if with the K70 has neither cardan tunnel or center console. Do you feel ready for any of the others in the serie from Heller now, Leyland Princess? The cars that Heller made in 1/43 are really so iconic that they are worthy of a larger scale.

You have done a fantastic job getting the windshield on this car, that is an achievement in itself. Sometimes white lines on clear parts can be less visible if you paint the edge black or silver but that said sometimes.

A good lunch became even better, I realized that I need to build Tamiya's CV2.

Many thanks ! //Ulf

Beautiful slick, a curious question, what glue do you use and do you glue the entire surface or only the edges or in the middle first and when the vapors are out (glue dried) then the edges?

Very nice build, not an easy kit either for that matter. You have really captured the feel of the early buggies. Fifteen years ago I was asked if I might be interested in a genuine Meyers body but at the time there was no room or funds.

Yes, this one. Ten years ago I was given a couple of kits by a very meticulous builder, tires and rims were missing in both kits and in the remaining ten in his studio. He is focused on Swedish street cars, street machines late 70's-early 80's and to these builds goes his ate. I'm pretty sure he evaluated all possibilities before buying a twelve pack.

This one might just be confusing but I hope it inspires somebody at MCF. The text in the magazine is pretty bland but it is a mix with Chrysler 1960. One of four 1960 DeSoto convertibles, all built outside the factory. It’s a nice car.

Very nice detailing, fun to see more builds with this engine.

Incredibly nice build, mc kits are not easy to build, you have succeeded very well. Nice to see your Shovelhead, I had a 73 a few years later than you, today I have a soft spot for the style of your bike but I only a Harley parked in the garage of dreams.

Gorgeous, I love the finish, what have you paint with ? It looks really real, like the Jag that is parked in my dream garage..

Great build with a classic kit, model building at its best.