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AMT 1941 Plymouth Coupe


NOBLNG

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On 2/16/2024 at 2:43 PM, NOBLNG said:

All these great ‘41 Plymouth builds got in my head, so I decided to start mine too.🤪 As always, all comments welcome.😎

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As Jim and Len pointed out, the grill and the shape of the nose and front fenders are the worst looking part of this kit. Once the flash on the nose is filed back to the trim, the grill no longer fits nicely.😕 The chrome was so bad on it anyways that I figured I would modify it. It will eventually get the Revell Chrom treatment.🙂

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Also, the vertical bar on the inner edges of the grill is not correct. So I started modifying it and the opening for a better fit.

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Then I added some styrene to the center edges for an additional depth stop.

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I had to line the passenger side opening With .010” styrene to close the gaps.

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That’s all for now. I want to sand the fender contours a bit, so I will mix up some sprue goo or Milliput to fill in the backside a bit to be safe.

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I like what you have done with the 41 it looked like it was a pain in the ass. I haven't seen this kit I see a lot of kits and I haven't seen before on MCM some of them I would like to have. Big box store do not have them and will not S.O. them and I'm stuck with them to buy they don't ship too PO boxes. Keep up the nice work.

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On 2/16/2024 at 5:43 PM, NOBLNG said:

All these great ‘41 Plymouth builds got in my head, so I decided to start mine too.🤪 As always, all comments welcome.😎

IMG_0720.thumb.jpeg.aea64485cde91d043fe0840e7579921f.jpeg

As Jim and Len pointed out, the grill and the shape of the nose and front fenders are the worst looking part of this kit. Once the flash on the nose is filed back to the trim, the grill no longer fits nicely.😕 The chrome was so bad on it anyways that I figured I would modify it. It will eventually get the Revell Chrom treatment.🙂

IMG_1432.thumb.jpeg.dcc20934e014cce0de6ef72d1b84a156.jpeg

IMG_1435.thumb.jpeg.b81c9680f76aac5930ae42891779e679.jpeg

Also, the vertical bar on the inner edges of the grill is not correct. So I started modifying it and the opening for a better fit.

IMG_0687.thumb.jpeg.0e68f0707d998b4195ab9443177c7e8b.jpeg

IMG_0689.thumb.jpeg.17de97ae75c332c687024c513356bca5.jpeg

Then I added some styrene to the center edges for an additional depth stop.

IMG_0696.thumb.jpeg.9eef74dd8a05bf306a5bd5ff49ad8a4c.jpeg

IMG_0703.thumb.jpeg.af7249fae7d0e00dbf92059fa9be0ed8.jpeg

I had to line the passenger side opening With .010” styrene to close the gaps.

IMG_0704.thumb.jpeg.afd1016c973c81193157462afbe885ce.jpeg

IMG_0714.thumb.jpeg.99aea9597c16c8472bdf3f224468de1b.jpeg

That’s all for now. I want to sand the fender contours a bit, so I will mix up some sprue goo or Milliput to fill in the backside a bit to be safe.

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Greg....fascinating to see how you are approaching this project.  Thanks for sharing the project and the techniques you are using to achieve it!  Cheers...TB 

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Posted (edited)
On 2/25/2024 at 4:20 PM, NOBLNG said:

Thanks Guys! Due to Len and Jims issues with the inner fender fitment, I am using the parts meant for use with the headers to get a better fit as a trial. I trimmed a fair bit off the top, so that they can lean outward under the fenders.

 

I’ve reconsidered the inner fender modification. They don’t need to be leaned out under the outers after all. They just need a little re-contouring at the top edge where they meet the outer fenders, and a little trimming for firewall clearance. I also filed a groove on each side for radiator clearance.

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I got the wheels detailed and mounted.

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The engine is in. I had to make a new upper rad hose, as the kit piece was about 1/8” short at the radiator end. I replaced the square block u-joints🥴with some resin pieces that I cast.

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And I made a new gas cap c/w grommet…just cause I felt like trying it.🤪

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Edited by NOBLNG
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Looking good Greg. But just so you know the u-joints on these cars were enclosed in a housing, not exposed like common u-joints. Don't know if that's what AMT was trying to replicate with their little boxes?

 

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Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, LennyB said:

Looking good Greg. But just so you know the u-joints on these cars were enclosed in a housing, not exposed like common u-joints. Don't know if that's what AMT was trying to replicate with their little boxes?

 

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Well how about that!🤔 I guess when the latest owner had the engine and transmission rebuilt, he replaced the driveshaft too.😜 Edit: I only searched long enough to verify that it wasn’t supposed to be a torque tube setup.

Edited by NOBLNG
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On 2/17/2024 at 12:10 PM, NOBLNG said:

Here is what I used on mine.

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I first made a cut with a razor saw as close to the center of each trough as possible, as a guide for the file.

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Then with short controlled strokes, file each slot to depth. Widen the slot if necessary, my file was just about perfect width. I used the round sanding stick to shape the tips to more of a point, although there is a bit of a flat spot on the 1:1 bars.

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Have you ever thought about cutting out part of the backing on the grill like the real car has it. I use a Hercules 5/0 Jewelers saw blades they are.005 thick .018 wide they're the best with a bench pin (see Teardrop Trailer in one of the photos I'm using a bench pin) that way you can paint back side of bars like the real car. Because I liked what you did.

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Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, Stanward VonDiederichs said:

Have you ever thought about cutting out part of the backing on the grill like the real car has it. I use a Hercules 5/0 Jewelers saw blades they are.005 thick .018 wide they're the best with a bench pin (see Teardrop Trailer in one of the photos I'm using a bench pin) that way you can paint back side of bars like the real car. Because I liked what you did.

I have thought about it, but I only have one grill set and there is a slight possibility that I could destroy it…so I think I will just paint the slots.😕 If I reconsider, I could likely do it with my photo etch saws.🤔

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Edited by NOBLNG
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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, David G. said:

Excellent progress on this Greg!

I really like the wat that the gas cap turned out.

David G.

Thanks David. I rolled a file over a piece of 0.080” evergreen rod to get the knurled edge. Then chucked it in my cordless drill to dome it and cut it off. Then glued it to .020” thick punchout for a “pipe” and a .010” punchout for the gasket.😎It has a pin in it now and I will foil it and paint the grommet before installing it.🙂

Edited by NOBLNG
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2 hours ago, LennyB said:

Looking good Greg, I like the color combo.

 

I've been trying to paint my interior today buy it's raining and nothing wants to dry.

Bummer!😕

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Posted (edited)

I started a bit of sanding on the nose…I ran out of other things to do.🥴 I haven’t gone through to the goo yet, but it’s getting thin. Now to get the other side to look the same.😬I will have to fill the sink marks made by the sprue goo on the drivers fender. I also stripped the bumper chrome and detailed them a bit, then sprayed them and the grills with the Revell Chrom. They are drying in the dehydrator out in the garage.😎

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Edited by NOBLNG
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Posted (edited)

I think I’ve got both sides looking similar now. A coat of primer will tell for sure. Now these headlights are going to take some fiddling with to fit properly. They will need to get stripped too and a bit of Milliput added to fill the gaps I think.🤔 

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Edited by NOBLNG
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On 3/4/2024 at 8:51 PM, alan barton said:

Im taking a lot of notes on this one Greg. Thank you for your detailed explanation of what you are doing with the rework of the nose - and my convertible build will thank you also!

Cheers

Alan

 

On 3/5/2024 at 6:40 AM, David G. said:

The interior looks great, you have some nice detail going on there.

Good progress on smoothing out the front end.

David G. 

Thanks guys!

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Posted (edited)

I believe I would use Milliput instead of the Sprue goo next time for a heavy application. This stuff seems pretty hard now, but I still can smell the solvent a bit….plus, I’m sure this sink mark on the passenger fender was not there when I was shaping it.🤔😡 The one on the drivers side did form before my shaping, but hasn’t gotten any worse. Oh well, it’s back in the dehydrator for now. I will attend to some other projects while it sits.

Edit: The “sink mark” is actually a dent I made while handling it. Likely the one on the drivers side also?  The original styrene has been softened from the solvent in the sprue goo, and is not yet structurally sound. The thick application I used will take some time to solidify completely.😕 I was able to push the dents out from the inside, so no filler will be needed once it is solid enough to sand smooth again.🙂And…it’s back in the dehydrator.😕

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Edited by NOBLNG
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Posted (edited)

On a positive note, I filled the seams between the hood and fenders and re-scribed them with the proper curve more or less. I also added a piece of 0.30” half round to the molding just ahead of the passenger door, and I think I’ll do the drivers side too. The hood is just a tad wide at this point and those moldings being recessed like that make it seem worse.

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I’ve sanded off the original fender welting and when I get back on this I will try to scribe the line for the new welting which will be 0.020” Evergreen rod. I will likely just paint it body color.

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Edited by NOBLNG
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On 2/29/2024 at 9:14 PM, NOBLNG said:

I have thought about it

If you want to give it a try I have a spare grille I would be willing to send to you.

Excellent work on that interior, nice choice of color. I'm really impressed with the body work you are doing.

Edited by TarheelRick
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6 minutes ago, TarheelRick said:

If you want to give it a try I have a spare grille I would be willing to send to you.

Excellent work on that interior, nice choice of color. I'm really impressed with the body work you are doing.

Thanks for the offer and the compliment. I think I am just going to paint the slots black though…there’s not much worth looking at behind there anyways.🙂

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Looks like you're going for broke, Greg 😀. I like it!  I never noticed the cowl/fender line. I was gonna laze out on the interior but you shamed me into adding some detail. As far as the sproo-goo goes, it seemed like a good idea. I got lucky and it didn't sink much. I haven't used Milliput. Maybe I should get some and see what it can do. You're gonna be OK with the .020 fender welt and don't sweat the body color on the welt - it'll be fine. Just don't try to attach the .020 around the high crown curve with solvent because it may break. I started in the flat area with solvent to get a foot hold, letting it set up before pulling it around the curve where I used CA . I learned this the hard way. 🥴

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