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Roadkill 56 Chevy


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I watch a show on Motortrend TV called Roadkill. These 2 guys take an old beat up, torn up junk car and get in running again. They put effort into the engine/trans and suspension but don't bother with making the exterior or the interior look good. And some of the ones they do are really ragged out. So I'm going to try my hand at building this 56 in that style. It will be my first attempt at weathering a body and interior, so this may be a disaster. The guys always name their creation, they once got a 69 Barracuda that was burnt to a crisp in one of the big California fires, got it running and named it BBQuda. So I'll call this one Roadkill.

The bucket seats on the kit don't have backs, so I made some and will trim to fit. The custom engine in the kit looks to be a SBC, maybe a 283, but it comes with a blower and 2 4's. I am going to try the white glue method on weathering the body. I'll see how this works out.

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Oooo....I gotta get my sorry back-side to Ollie's 😯  I built one of these Monogram kits and it's not the greatest but it's worth the price at the very least. "My" Ollie's had the '57 Nomad kits a couple of months ago so I grabbed one. That one has the fuelly small block. It's gonna make a nice El Nomado. 🙃.  If you're going "patina", get a few different colors of primer down first. Just sanding through different colors makes a nice effect. I've never tried white glue, but I've used salt. Will there be rust 🙂? This can be great fun. Your engine looks nice,, Jim...could be a 265? 

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Now if you had a Hemi James you could replicate their "Blasphemi" gasser. Yeah, I know theirs is a 55, but close enough.

Jim, yeas ago I bought both the 56 and the 57 Nomad. Guess what, I have a half made 56 Nomad up in the attic.

 

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Cool this will be cool. So I just watched the cupple episodes on this car. It started out in hot rod garage where they restored this cars frame and drive train. The body was trash and that's where roadkill got involved. They put a solid body on this car and went racing! And they named it the 56 chevy Feild car.20181126-225129-5d0c5b856c6b1c2b304cb0a7f140d469.jpg.bec12b84ad4d8402b3df4f0045382a23.jpg

This cars got a lot of patina on it. And I would really only say surface rust, also a lot of different coats of paint. This car would really test your patina skills. I also like how this car has skinny cregars on bias plys.

Here's my favorite shot of the car.Screenshot_20240318_183818_Chrome.jpg.cc3090b82728883d521554e12ac25f79.jpg

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I kinda like the "I just escaped from the crusher" look. The car looks solid enough so you don't need to do a lot of dremel work on the inside of the bottom sheet metal.  But that's a lot of fun, though 😉. Not much foiling either. That's a plus 🙂. The "thousand mile stare" is a nice touch.

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I just saw the episode featuring the 56. That's what gave me idea because I knew I had the 56 I got at Ollie's. I also have the Nomad. I'm not going to try and replicate their 56, I just want to try my hand at weathering a body and interior. I have weathered a chassis before, but that was just dirt and grime.

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I, personally, would not use the white glue thing based on a video I watched. I think the salt method works quite well. The salt is just acting as a making device. And you can do it over and over till you are happy with it. Layering different colors and using real rust (Sophisticated Finishes) gets you a pretty convincing patina. This is real fun, James. These attempts of mine below are not the greatest but I was experimenting. OK, they're a bit over the top but your first one is an experiment and a learning experience.  Watch some videos! Have fun with it!

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This should be cool. I envy you weathering guys, I have not tried any yet.

Be sure to adjust the wheelbase, the front tires are to far back. You can slide the entire chassis about an 1/8" and kinda fix it

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Like the theme of your build. The Roadkill car is a '56 Chevy 210 two door post body if that is even important to you on this build. Hardtops got misused just as much as any other body style. On the surface rust you might experiment with hair spray as well as the salt method. Maybe even use both depending on what type of paint you're exposing underneath giving you even more of a variation in the finial finish.

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11 hours ago, Sledsel said:

This should be cool. I envy you weathering guys, I have not tried any yet.

Be sure to adjust the wheelbase, the front tires are to far back. You can slide the entire chassis about an 1/8" and kinda fix it

Thanks. I envy the weathering guys too, this will be my first attempt. I may be throwing to whole thing in the can before it finished.

 

7 hours ago, Zippi said:

Pretty kewl project you got gonin on there James.  Wish our Ollie's would get some kits in.  Never see any there so I stopped going.

Thanks Bob. I have a couple Ollie's I check from time to time. They usually have a few.

 

3 hours ago, espo said:

Like the theme of your build. The Roadkill car is a '56 Chevy 210 two door post body if that is even important to you on this build. Hardtops got misused just as much as any other body style. On the surface rust you might experiment with hair spray as well as the salt method. Maybe even use both depending on what type of paint you're exposing underneath giving you even more of a variation in the finial finish.

Thanks David. I'm not going to try and replicate the show car, just gonna try something new to me.

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James, a good way to get started might be to remove one or two trim pieces and drill the holes. It's simple and it says a lot. A single edge razor blade or a 1/2" chisel-point xacto blade will do the trick.  Band-aids optional.

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1 hour ago, ksnow said:

Engine looks good. Looking forward to seeing your weathering process.

Thanks.

 

3 minutes ago, customline said:

James, a good way to get started might be to remove one or two trim pieces and drill the holes. It's simple and it says a lot. A single edge razor blade or a 1/2" chisel-point xacto blade will do the trick.  Band-aids optional.

Jim, I been thinking about what I need to do with the trim. I don't think I want to remove any, never tried that before. But I don't want to foil it either. Not sure how would be the best way to handle it, maybe go over it with a dull silver pencil or something. And when is the best stage to do it. I want to start the glue stage, then shoot some dullcote on it, then the final color before I start removing the glue. Not sure when I should do the trim work.

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35 minutes ago, bluestringer said:

Thanks.

 

Jim, I been thinking about what I need to do with the trim. I don't think I want to remove any, never tried that before. But I don't want to foil it either. Not sure how would be the best way to handle it, maybe go over it with a dull silver pencil or something. And when is the best stage to do it. I want to start the glue stage, then shoot some dullcote on it, then the final color before I start removing the glue. Not sure when I should do the trim work.

This car has very prominent trim and you have got to figure out how to deal with it. If it was a 1:1, you could leave it alone, remove it, or paint over it. In the case of a roach like the one pictured above(the Road Kill Chevy), each panel tells a different story. I like the way that looks because I've seen a lot of cars like that. They will have, say, a door off a junker and a different color hood, missing trim, cracked quarter glass, etc.  If you're going to do this, maybe look at the "RUST" thread. Know what? I'll drag it out.  Look for it in "cars" in "under glass"

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Very good interior.
If you choose the salt method, put a layer of clear varnish first to saturate the salt grains, they otherwise absorb the paint so that there are rings around them with more color and varnish hatches and doors separately so that the salt grains are placed in and around the joints more convincingly.

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On 3/23/2024 at 2:54 PM, Ulf said:

Very good interior.
If you choose the salt method, put a layer of clear varnish first to saturate the salt grains, they otherwise absorb the paint so that there are rings around them with more color and varnish hatches and doors separately so that the salt grains are placed in and around the joints more convincingly.

Thanks. I am going to try the white glue method.

 

On 3/23/2024 at 9:36 PM, slusher said:

Nice work James!

Thanks Carl.

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I have removed the front fender trim on the drivers side and the door trim on the passenger side. I painted the hood a ugly flat black like it was just picked up and put on, (forgot to take picture). I also removed the front emblem from it. I sprayed on another coat of the rust base coat, and then sprayed on a good coat of dullcote over it. I weathered all of the chassis except the suspension, rear end/drivehaft and the exhaust system. I wanted those to look just replaced. I'll start the glue stage in a couple of days. The color will be a flat green, I may paint one of the doors another color to make it look like a replacement. My first time doing a build like this so not sure how it will turn out, but I'm having fun with it.

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I'm going to take a chance and post these photos that I found out in the ether. They will possibly help you with hole locations where you removed the trim pieces. You'll need to zoom, of course, to see some of the holes.  I will take them down if you wish. 

R-55.jpg.2c209ecc1a7babea0f2ad56c0fa1208d.jpgR-56.jpg.667f1c1bb9ecd20fe30143bb3434a0cf.jpgneeds-total-restoration-1956-chevrolet-210-project-for-sale-2020-11-29-1.jpg.9c6ac9a2ce071e1ac0edd59b7f2a0204.jpg1956-chevy-bel-air-post-project-car-4.jpg.0ac58c693ffed716d4dce46ce7f8a00e.jpg

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