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Posted

The last couple of times that I have used aftermarket ready to spray paint including acrylic paint I get this Blow Back. I don't have this problem using de-canted paint I clean my Talon after each time that I use it and make sure that everything is tight before I use it again. 

Any advice?

Mike

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Posted

Have you tried spraying decanted paint again after the problem manifested itself? If so and it works fine…maybe try contacting Paasche directly. They also have manuals you can download on their website. Sorry I don’t have any more specific advice.
 

Posted

A little more detailed info on this 'blow back' problem would be helpful. By 'blow back', are you referring to bubbles in your paint cup. I am not familiar with the Paasche Talon, but on many airbrushes this is an indication the head or nozzle seal has been compromised.

  • Like 1
Posted

What a mess! did you happen to pour paint in the cup with no needle installed?

If not then the needle bearing, or what ever Paasche calls it must have failed.  It keeps paint from flowing backwards, which is what appeared to happen here.  Or the nozzle is so badly clogged the only place the paint has to go is backwards?

  • Like 1
Posted

^^^ Either the nozzle is blocked completely, or the needle seals are gone, or both. Somehow, the air is forcing the paint backwards through the brush instead of out the nozzle… which should be the path of least resistance. I don’t think it has anything to do with decanted versus “ready to spray”. If the latter is acrylic I suspect it has gunged up the nozzle and now you have gone back to decanted the thinner paint has pushed past the seals. You are gonna have to take the whole thing apart and thoroughly clean it, I reckon…

best,

M.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Other than a blockage in the nozzle, the packing nut (TAL-8) is possibly not tight enough. In my Iwata it has to be tight enough to squash the ptfe enough to seal against the needle. If it’s too loose it won’t seal. If it’s too tight the trigger may be stiff or not return.

More Info:https://www.everythingairbrush.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Paasche-Talon-TG-Manual-English.pdf

IMG_5326.webp

Edited by NOBLNG
  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/30/2024 at 11:02 AM, Mike 1017 said:

The last couple of times that I have used aftermarket ready to spray paint including acrylic paint I get this Blow Back. I don't have this problem using de-canted paint I clean my Talon after each time that I use it and make sure that everything is tight before I use it again. 

Any advice?

Mike

IMG_0002-Copy.thumb.JPG.56227614f1f99159ed5cdd11cba74aa5.JPG

IMG_0003-Copy.thumb.JPG.e5d48be03d582923b1eb086df6c6af75.JPG

Glad you posted this. I'm having the same issue with mine to the point I stopped using it a couple of months ago. I had the issue with RTS as well but haven't tried decanted in it, as I typically run that thru my H. Mine is only a year old.

Posted

Usually if you experience bubbling in the cup it might be one of two things. The nozzle is experiencing a leak where it joins with the airbrush body. If the nozzle has a seal (o-ring) attached, you might just need to replace the o-ring. If there is no seal on the nozzle, some bees wax on the nozzle threads will seal it. If the nozzle is damaged (think cracked or chipped), you will need to replace it. As said before, the air and paint are finding the path of least resistance. With the evidence of paint getting back to the trigger mechanism, that would indicate to me that the needle packing (TAL-8) needs to be tightened or replaced. Tightening is not that difficult if you have a small slot blade screwdriver. Some needle packings are a brass fitting which compresses a separate ptfe o-ring (or other material). Others are an integral unit with o-ring attached to brass fitting.

Posted
On 10/30/2024 at 12:41 PM, Bainford said:

A little more detailed info on this 'blow back' problem would be helpful. By 'blow back', are you referring to bubbles in your paint cup. I am not familiar with the Paasche Talon, but on many airbrushes this is an indication the head or nozzle seal has been compromised.

By blow back I mean that the paint blows from the cup back to part # TAL 17.

Posted

First off, I want to thank everyone for the advice and comments. On You Tube I found a tutorial on rebuilding the Talon Airbrush. The narrator specifically said, "That the Teflon part TAL 8 prevents the paint from blowing back". I hope that this works .I ordered the part today and I will post the results.

Thanks again

MikeTAL-8$00.jpg?resizeid=5&resizeh=1200&resizew=1200

 

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Mike 1017 said:

First off, I want to thank everyone for the advice and comments. On You Tube I found a tutorial on rebuilding the Talon Airbrush. The narrator specifically said, "That the Teflon part TAL 8 prevents the paint from blowing back". I hope that this works .I ordered the part today and I will post the results.

Thanks again

Mike

 

Make sure you have a flat screwdriver small enough to remove and install it.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

Make sure you have a flat screwdriver small enough to remove and install it.

I would second this, and if you have a hollow ground driver, all the better. Brass is soft, not that this should be super tight or anything 

Posted
14 hours ago, Rick L said:

Be sure not to over tighten when installing. That may have been the cause of your original problem. 

Thanks Rick. I never touched it. I did not even know that part existed.

Mike

Posted (edited)

Installing the replacement TAL-8 to get it to effectively seal against the needle is a trial and error process. Installing it too tight will cause this new needle packing to fail again sooner than it should. Once initially installed, hold your airbrush vertically with the nozzle end pointing up. Then take your needle, with the non business end barely inside the airbrush body, and let the needle drop. If it falls right through the airbrush, then the needle packing is not tight enough and doing its job. Tighten the needle packing a little more, think about 1/8th of a turn. Try the needle drop again. Keep repeating this process until the needle does not fall through. When it gets "held" by the needle packing, then the needle packing is doing its job and is adjusted correctly / tight enough.

Edited by Bill Eh?
clarity
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Mike 1017 said:

Thanks Rick. I never touched it. I did not even know that part existed.

Mike

You may only need to tighten it slightly to solve the problem. The brass nut tightens against the ptfe seal and squashes it slightly to seal against the needle.

Oops, I see Bill has stated the adjustment procedure….doesn’t hurt to have a spare anyway.

Edited by NOBLNG
  • Like 1

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