Revell '57 Chevy Re-issue

[TransAmMike]

Recently got the Revell '57 Belair 2-door sedan and just opened it up. 

The tops of the front fenders are supposed to be a peak from front to back. Instead as, you can see in the pics, the peak is flat. 

Anyone else have this kit? 

If so, what does the tops of the fenders look like on yours? 

I'll be interest in your replies. 

Thanks, Mike

[1972coronet]

Are there separate , plated 'spears' for those peaks? 

Are those peaks exclusive to the Bel Air model ? (i.e., the 150 and 210 being less embellished trim levels).

[TransAmMike]

4 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

Are there separate , plated 'spears' for those peaks? 

Are those peaks exclusive to the Bel Air model ? (i.e., the 150 and 210 being less embellished trim levels).

All had them, and no there was never a "spear". 

[TransAmMike]

?No one has this model? 

Edited November 15, 2024 by TransAmMike

[Exotics_Builder]

This is the California Wheels issue from a few years ago.

 

Edited November 16, 2024 by Exotics_Builder

[RichCostello]

7 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

?No one has this model? 

I've got the California Wheels kit from 2009 and it is the same as yours. It's almost more of an indentation than a peak. Must be a Revell thing, but I really like the kit.

[Force]

It's most likely where the mold itself parts to get the body out and if it's some play there it can happen.

[TransAmMike]

Thanks guy's.  I'm guessing I will just sand it flat. Won't be like the actual car but don't know what else to do. 

I contacted Revell and they are sending a replacement body, but will probably be the same issue. We shall see. 

[blizzy63]

The top of 1957 Chevrolet front fenders do have a peak.

The recent Revell '57 Chevy kits have the peak as well as the body mold part line just to the outside of the peak.

Those mold lines need to be sanded away for an accurate depiction model.

[TransAmMike]

20 hours ago, blizzy63 said:

The top of 1957 Chevrolet front fenders do have a peak.

The recent Revell '57 Chevy kits have the peak as well as the body mold part line just to the outside of the peak.

Those mold lines need to be sanded away for an accurate depiction model.

Got cha Robert.  I'll see what the replacement body will look line and at some point while I'm waiting for it, may work on the one I have.

[TransAmMike]

Got the replacement '57 Chevy BelAir replacement body I requested from the.   

Well, I guess the old mould is shot as this one is the same as the one that was in the kit.  Actually, it's a bit worse.

I have to decide if I just want to send the "peak" down on the top of the fender and it not be accurate. 

 

Edited November 23, 2024 by TransAmMike

[Dave G.]

15 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Got the replacement '57 Chevy BelAir replacement body I requested from the.   

Well, I guess the old mould is shot as this one is the same as the one that was in the kit.  Actually, it's a bit worse.

I have to decide if I just want to send the "peak" down on the top of the fender and it not be accurate. 

 

Build it up with a little ridge of putty and sand to shape. Worth a shot. That's how I'd do it anyway, not saying it would be perfect but to me, better than none.

[TransAmMike]

1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

Build it up with a little ridge of putty and sand to shape. Worth a shot. That's how I'd do it anyway, not saying it would be perfect but to me, better than none.

I have never had success with puttying.  The "peak" along the top of the fender is mostly there and I agree not too fond of the idea of sanding it smooth.  The other issue is there is a mold line that runs parallel to the "peak" maybe 1/32" close to it.  On the original body I was able to carefully and the mold line down but still a bit of a work in progress.

Thanks for the suggestion.

[espo]

An idea if someone is trying to shape a small ridge on a body with just putty. Consider gluing a very small styrene strip to form the ridge on the body. I have used something in the .010 range with pretty good luck. Very little if any putty if any would be needed to blend the styrene. Usually, a good coat of primer and then a light smooth sanding will make a smooth enough transition between the added strip and the body and leave no noticeable seem. 

[TransAmMike]

1 hour ago, espo said:

An idea if someone is trying to shape a small ridge on a body with just putty. Consider gluing a very small styrene strip to form the ridge on the body. I have used something in the .010 range with pretty good luck. Very little if any putty if any would be needed to blend the styrene. Usually, a good coat of primer and then a light smooth sanding will make a smooth enough transition between the added strip and the body and leave no noticeable seem. 

Hmmm David.  Since I actually have a spare body now, I might have to try that.

Thanks

[Exotics_Builder]

I haven't looked at the model that much as the 57 is my least favorite of the tri-5's.  But I would look at using Evergreen triangle rod in the smallest size to build the peak and then putty/sand as needed.

[TransAmMike]

22 minutes ago, Exotics_Builder said:

I haven't looked at the model that much as the 57 is my least favorite of the tri-5's.  But I would look at using Evergreen triangle rod in the smallest size to build the peak and then putty/sand as needed.

Well Gerry, that's sure interesting. 

Thanks

[NOBLNG]

This is what Plastruct has to offer. I don’t see triangle shapes on Evergreens site and I believe .020” is the smallest round they have.

[Exotics_Builder]

4 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

This is what Plastruct has to offer. I don’t see triangle shapes on Evergreens site and I believe .020” is the smallest round they have.

I've got some downstairs.  I'll have to check who they are from and size.

[Exotics_Builder]

Well I had the .040 out (I think I also have the .030) but I just taped it to the Revell 57 for an idea.  Would need to spend more time thinking on it, but not in the near term

[TransAmMike]

19 hours ago, Exotics_Builder said:

Well I had the .040 out (I think I also have the .030) but I just taped it to the Revell 57 for an idea.  Would need to spend more time thinking on it, but not in the near term

Thinking the. 030 would be just right. 

[Exotics_Builder]

4 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Thinking the. 030 would be just right. 

Used up the .030 so can't show.  Would still need some "massaging"

[Dave G.]

Mike, as far as that extra mold line, I'd use the lady's nail file stick on that personally. Then the finer pads to follow. With either those sticks or the pads you can get right up near the main ridge and not damage it. I've also scraped out mold lines by sliding an X acto along it, then sand to smooth it. Work slow and steady, be persistent, you'll get it out of there.

[TransAmMike]

4 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Mike, as far as that extra mold line, I'd use the lady's nail file stick on that personally. Then the finer pads to follow. With either those sticks or the pads you can get right up near the main ridge and not damage it. I've also scraped out mold lines by sliding an X acto along it, then sand to smooth it. Work slow and steady, be persistent, you'll get it out of there.

Hi Dave....I have been able to pretty much get the mold line off with a narrow emery board but it still needs a bit more work.  I used masking tape to cover the "peak".  Problem is what I call the "peak" is not very well defined for the whole length on the top of the fender.

[Fat Brian]

You might want to look into a triangular fret dressing file. It's made with smooth edges to be able to rub on a surface without damaging it.