Monty Posted January 12 Posted January 12 1) You'd think I would know this at this point, but it seems things have changed over the years, so... Going back decades ago, some innovative people discovered that putting a clear substance (clear enamel, epoxy etc) over the faces of individual gauges made them look more like the 1:1 units. While this still holds true in principle, the use of many of these substances eventually diminished because they would yellow over time. What are you guys using that has stood the test of time by keeping its original clarity? 2) This is the stock gauge cluster and surround for a 1980 Corvette I want to replicate my old 'Vette using a 1/25 MPC kit, but the gauge thing has me stymied. Are there correct (black) decal gauges that will fit in these holes and still be fairly legible?
rattle can man Posted January 12 Posted January 12 Gauge decals are available from Gopher Racing, other decal companies, and also on that auction site we all hate. You might have to search their websites for the specific gauges and sizes you need. As for clear covers, how about using punches and clear plastic sheet? 3
Shark Posted January 12 Posted January 12 I have been using Testors canopy/window glue. It is a white color and dries clear. Not supposed to yellow, but I haven't been using it long enough to notice any changes.
mr moto Posted January 12 Posted January 12 Tamiya clear acrylic works well for gage faces and it's also available in three different gloss levels. 1
rattle can man Posted January 12 Posted January 12 I have used canopy glue to make "glass" windows for mode RR structures and after three years it has not yellowed. Clear paints are an option. Just avoid enamels because they tend to yellow with age.
Bills72sj Posted January 12 Posted January 12 2 hours ago, Shark said: I have been using Testors canopy/window glue. It is a white color and dries clear. Not supposed to yellow, but I haven't been using it long enough to notice any changes. I do the same. Carve out the back of the dash to create an opening. trim and glue the decals still on their backing paper. It keeps them stiff and flat. Then apply Testors Window maker (canopy glue) with a toothpick to just the right depth. It wicks into the gaps around the edges and dries crystal clear. I have used this glue on many models over the years. No yellowing noted. 1
Perspect Scale Modelworks Posted January 12 Posted January 12 Bestmodelcarparts (on ebay) has a set of gauges for 1978 corvettes. Looks the same as 1980. His gauges are not decals. You cut them out and glue in place. 1
stitchdup Posted January 12 Posted January 12 i've got a leather punch for making belts. it has six sizes of hole and keeps the centre flat when its removed which fit most gauges. a drop f white glue to hold them and jobs a goodun 1
PappyD340 Posted January 12 Posted January 12 I've always used a drop or two of 5 minute epoxy for gauge lenses and have never had any yellowing issues!
Steamboat Posted January 12 Posted January 12 10 hours ago, PappyD340 said: I've always used a drop or two of 5 minute epoxy for gauge lenses and have never had any yellowing issues! I do the same. If the epoxy yellows, by that time my model has already been given to the thrift store!
Straightliner59 Posted January 13 Posted January 13 I have punches in many sizes. I just find the right size, and make some clear plastic discs to fit. That said, I most frequently just build my gauges, so I am able to use/make stuff that fits together (proper sized "glass" for the opening).
rattle can man Posted January 13 Posted January 13 drill out the gauge faces back the openings with clear sheet and then glue gauge faces behind? If your model is not a convertible, will any yellowing be very obvious?
Monty Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 10 hours ago, rattle can man said: If your model is not a convertible, will any yellowing be very obvious? The gauges in the kit's center cluster are fairly small, so I'd like to avoid using anything that might make them harder to see. Think back to what old-school Testors clear lacquer would do to a white paint job over time.
peteski Posted January 16 Posted January 16 On 1/12/2025 at 7:40 AM, PappyD340 said: I've always used a drop or two of 5 minute epoxy for gauge lenses and have never had any yellowing issues! My experience (over the last 30+ years) is exactly opposite. I have used multiple brands of 5-minute epoxies for "glass" and other tasks (even the ones where the liquid hardener looks clear, not slightly amber like others), and after few years they *ALL* turned darker amber. If someone wants their model to look good after several years, I strongly discourage using 5-minute epoxies to represent gauge "glass" or any other item which is supposed to be clear.
Straightliner59 Posted January 16 Posted January 16 I wonder how UV activated resin would stand the test of time. It would certainly be clear and glass-slick, at the start. It might be worth a shot.
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