The "new" '32 Revell Roadster

[customline]

On 7/31/2025 at 1:47 PM, Mr. Metallic said:

You can bring the rear down by simply shaving the top off the airbags. You'll still have that heavy rake, but it will close up the gap. You may have to do a little massaging with the coilovers, but there's no attachment point for them on the chassis so you can let them land where they land.

After much internal debate, fear, weeping, and denial, I came to the conclusion that I needed to bite the dam bullet (a wad cutter, thankfully) and rip the rear end out and cut those stupid air bags down. You talked me into it, Craig 😪

This could have gone south on me pretty quick but it must be my lucky day.

I drilled out the air bag posts from the top side and shaved a few mms off of them.

I drilled them for new posts and cleaned up the CA from the contact points.  I knew the wheels were not centered and that's what made my mind up.  Assembling the rear axle and radius arms without the wheels mounted is to do it blind. That's how I did it. 🥴  now I get to correct it!  The thing is, when the wheels are centered, the drive shaft is too long. I had to move it forward to center the wheels and everything should fit, right? Nope. That's why the big fat posts sticking out of the air bags.  They fit through the drilled out holes in the floor pan. So with the wheels on, the axle in place, the body in place, I centered the wheels. I then removed the body (very carefully ) and dropped the CA on the posts and kicked it.

And this is what she looks like now. 👇

The radius of the fender and that of the tire are equidistant throughout the curve. That's a win.  It's not a heck of a lot lower but it's much better to my eye. I will still darken the wells.  The big victim in all this is the drive shift.

Thank for helping. You know who you are 😉

Edited yesterday at 01:58 AM by customline

[NOBLNG]

2 hours ago, customline said:

And this is what she looks like now. 👇

 

Thank for helping. You know who you are 😉

 

It definitely looks better with the wheels centered under the fenders.👍 What is that device that the driveshaft is sitting on?

[Zippi]

That's looking real good there Jim.  I'm liking it.

[customline]

8 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

It definitely looks better with the wheels centered under the fenders.👍 What is that device that the driveshaft is sitting on?

The device is a mini-vise I got from  Micro-Mark many moons ago. It helps to cut a square end on small stuff like the driveshaft.

In other news....

This is my deuce body with the deuce frame from a '29 or '30 kit snuggled inside like they were made for each other. My firewall is in place, otherwise it would go through at the cowl. Some minor tweaking of the inner fenders might be needed.  A deuce frame that's already pinched for a  Model A highboy or a channelled deuce. Cool, huh? I love those extra frames. 🙂

Edited yesterday at 12:18 PM by customline

[customline]

1 hour ago, Zippi said:

That's looking real good there Jim.  I'm liking it.

Yup, thanks, Bob. I do listen to y'all.  Sometimes. 😌

[customline]

WDYT about adding styrene rod to the rear fenders to create a rolled-over lip. This would reduce the radius evenly and shrink that unsightly void over the tire? 😏

[Can-Con]

2 hours ago, customline said:

WDYT about adding styrene rod to the rear fenders to create a rolled-over lip. This would reduce the radius evenly and shrink that unsightly void over the tire? 😏

Definitely need to fill some of that gap up somehow. I think that would help a lot.

 

BTW ,,, a bit late with this but I think your distributor looks about the right size compared to the one on my T/A.

[customline]

.

1 hour ago, Can-Con said:

Definitely need to fill some of that gap up somehow. I think that would help a lot.

 

BTW ,,, a bit late with this but I think your distributor looks about the right size compared to the one on my T/A.

...And why can't they all be like that? 

[customline]

I stopped  by the body shop for a bit of custom work.

It's a little awkward to hold cold-curled 5/64 rod while gluing and kicking but I managed to do so without my fingers becoming part of the fender.

Bondo time!

My cheese grater 👇

The inside needs some love too. Just some quick work with sanding drums to eliminate the roll-under and make it look like a normal fender. 

This should make everyone happier now. 😉

Thanks for sticking around if you did. If you didn't, well.....you missed it!

[customline]

Took it out to the paint shop for some primer. The first two shots are for you. 😯

The other four are for me. Gotta zoom for a look at what I need to do to smooth it out. You may as well see it too. 😕

Taking suggestions on interior colors, y'all. 🤠

[TopherMcGinnis]

Sand, sand, sand, sand......sand, sand.....prime it again.

[FoMoCo66]

Looking good, your can never go wrong with a white interior with body color accents. Did it on my 32 tudor.

[customline]

1 hour ago, TopherMcGinnis said:

Sand, sand, sand, sand......sand, sand.....prime it again.

😩

[bill-e-boy]

Just caught up with this build thread and I am liking a whole lot of what I am seeing. Definitely some points to remember like the engine seams and the bobbed guard treatment. I dont have this kit, only the original release that I have a couple of. Will need to hunt one down. Unfortunately we don't have an Ollies or anything like it down these ways so will have to fork out big money for it. Typically Revell 32's are about $85-95 NZ dollars so we tend to spend wisely (mostly)

And the Mica red suits the 32's well - it is what I used on my recently completed 32 Tudor build - must get it to Under Glass. Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow which is a light tan is another option for the interior. Gloss it up a bit with SG clear.

 

[customline]

1 hour ago, bill-e-boy said:

Just caught up with this build thread and I am liking a whole lot of what I am seeing. Definitely some points to remember like the engine seams and the bobbed guard treatment. I dont have this kit, only the original release that I have a couple of. Will need to hunt one down. Unfortunately we don't have an Ollies or anything like it down these ways so will have to fork out big money for it. Typically Revell 32's are about $85-95 NZ dollars so we tend to spend wisely (mostly)

And the Mica red suits the 32's well - it is what I used on my recently completed 32 Tudor build - must get it to Under Glass. Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow which is a light tan is another option for the interior. Gloss it up a bit with SG clear.

 

I'm glad you like my "skinning" idea. A broken clock is correct twice daily 😌

Thanks for the suggestion on the interior. I have nice light tan in a can but I may venture out today. I also have "Corinthian White" which is a....well.... light tan.  More like cream in some light. 

 

[bluestringer]

Looking really nice Jim.