Rolls-Royce No Chemicals, No Paint, No Harmful Glues

[Anglia105E]

I have been diagnosed as having a lung condition known as Bronchiectasis, which is affecting my right lung only . . . A senior respiratory physician at the Derby Royal Hospital has sent a letter to my local GP doctor which includes these words ' I have strongly encouraged Mr. Watson to avoid his hobby of model car making. '

I cannot stop building model cars, and I do not want to stop building model cars . . . The consultant doctor has warned me of the dangers of using chemicals such as acetone, spray paints, enamel thinners, resins and strong glues. During the past seven years I have been wearing a mask (FFP3) while working in my loft room with the VELUX window fully open, and this has usually been for only ten minutes or so, and then leaving the room where fumes might have accumulated . . .

Now I have had an idea, and I don't know if this can work, or indeed if it is even possible . . . I intend to build a 1:24 scale Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud from a Revell kit or a Minicraft kit, using parts that I have already, so I don't need to purchase another kit. My plan is to use washable PVA glue that is child friendly, also the bare black plastic of the body panels will be highly polished with no paint applied whatsoever. I can use BMF for any chrome work, so no Molotow Liquid Chrome or silver or chrome paint. The interior seats upholstery can be given a coat of PVA glue to simulate the leather material, and then coated with water based emulsion paint to provide the chosen colour.

The PVA glue does take a long while to set fully, but when it does set this glue does achieve quite a strong bond if handled with care. The polish that I intend to use will be Meguiars Carnauba Wax, or alternatively natural Beeswax, so no toxic chemicals. There are only 26 parts in the kit and I can scratch make clear plastic window glass, as well as any other modified parts that are required for this build . . .

I would be very interested to hear the thoughts and opinions from fellow MCM Forums members regarding this project, and maybe this idea has been attempted previously?

David Watson

[Bainford]

2 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

A senior respiratory physician at the Derby Royal Hospital has sent a letter to my local GP doctor which includes these words ' I have strongly encouraged Mr. Watson to avoid his hobby of model car making. '

Cripes, David, that is a doctor's order one does not want ever want to hear. Very sorry to hear about your condition, and I hope things go smoothly for you from here on out.

As for the build, I like it! Roll with the punches, work with what you have. Once one digs into it, there are probably a lot of non-toxic solutions for many of the procedures we take for granted. I am looking forward to seeing how this project progresses. Cheers.

[Anglia105E]

6 minutes ago, Bainford said:

Cripes, David, that is a doctor's order one does not want ever want to hear. Very sorry to hear about your condition, and I hope things go smoothly for you from here on out.

As for the build, I like it! Roll with the punches, work with what you have. Once one digs into it, there are probably a lot of non-toxic solutions for many of the procedures we take for granted. I am looking forward to seeing how this project progresses. Cheers.

Thanks a lot Trevor . . . I am hoping that I can find ways round the obvious applications, as you say. Over in the W.I.P. Dioramas section I have posted a copy of this new topic. This is under the title of The Bungalow in Foamboard, which is the project that I have been working on over the previous 7 months. That one was completed using foam board, PVA glue and emulsion paint primarily . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

This evening I sat down at the table and conducted a feasibility study, to determine if I have the necessary parts to build this car . . .

Here are some photos that show the instruction sheets for both Revell and Minicraft, as well as the parts that I have managed to find so far.

What I don't seem to have is 5 wheels and 2 tyres, also one front bumper and one fog lamp. Otherwise it is all there . . .

I checked on Ebay, and there are no Silver Cloud kits listed in 1:24 scale, apart from several Hubley kits in France which are quite expensive, with high shipping costs to the UK . . .

There is one more box in the loft that I need to look in tomorrow, which should contain some further Rolls-Royce parts.

David

[Pierre Rivard]

Sorry about the bad news David. I love your fighting spirit. May I suggest moving to acrylics for paint? I've spent considerable time developing ways to brush on Vallejo acrylics (all layers) and pretty happy with the results, and no harmful solvents. I'm taking the liberty to post a picture as an example of what is possible with a bit of  a learning curve.

 

[TopherMcGinnis]

That is quite a kick to the gut. I really like Createx paints for bodies. It's all water based and doesn't have a chemical smell. As mentioned by Pierre, Vallejo acrylics are great to work with. I've found that priming first helps with their adhesion, and Vallejo primers work well. 

 

You seem to have a love for the Silver Cloud 👍

[Anglia105E]

3 hours ago, TopherMcGinnis said:

That is quite a kick to the gut. I really like Createx paints for bodies. It's all water based and doesn't have a chemical smell. As mentioned by Pierre, Vallejo acrylics are great to work with. I've found that priming first helps with their adhesion, and Vallejo primers work well. 

 

You seem to have a love for the Silver Cloud 👍

Thanks Topher . . . I do have a collection of Vallejo acrylics, but what I found was that you cannot simply wash the brush out with water. I had to use Isopropyl Alcohol to fully clean the brush. There is no way my lung can get anywhere near that chemical. Do you know if some acrylic paints can be fully cleaned with just water ?

Oh yes, I do have quite an obsession with the Silver Cloud, especially 1955 - 1959 . . . I have built 8 of them over the past 7 years, so this one will be 9, and as well as the kit built ones I have several Franklin Mint diecast versions of the car, and an original Hubley promo . . . For one of the kits I moulded and cast a resin body shell and chassis, which turned out really well. I am not able to use resin mixing materials nowadays of course.

David

[Anglia105E]

4 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Sorry about the bad news David. I love your fighting spirit. May I suggest moving to acrylics for paint? I've spent considerable time developing ways to brush on Vallejo acrylics (all layers) and pretty happy with the results, and no harmful solvents. I'm taking the liberty to post a picture as an example of what is possible with a bit of  a learning curve.

 

Thanks a lot for your concern Pierre . . .   I do have a collection of Vallejo acrylics, but what I found was that you cannot simply wash the brush out with water. I had to use Isopropyl Alcohol to fully clean the brush. There is no way my lung can get anywhere near that chemical. Do you know if some acrylic paints can be fully cleaned with just water ? . . . Maybe the Tamiya spray acrylics could be an option ?

David

[TopherMcGinnis]

I use water and regular Dawn dish soap with no issues. Even with the Createx.

[Anglia105E]

28 minutes ago, TopherMcGinnis said:

I use water and regular Dawn dish soap with no issues. Even with the Createx.

Okay fair enough . . . Understood, thanks Topher.

David

[Mattilacken]

Sad to hear about your condition but glad to hear your spirit! I do also use Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics( tamiya are smelly) but the Vallejo cleans out nicely with water, sure over time I might get buildup of paint in the upper part of the brush. But soaking them and wipe them on paper works very good. Keep the build going! Will be following! 

[Brizio]

That's sad news. But you have a good spirity and will find a way to keep building! 
This hobby expose you to a lot of chemical, even some that we thingk ara "safe" like CA glue, could make reaction down the line.
In the instruction I saw 3D printed 6 cyl engine, 3D printed parts are safe for your situation? After cured, but I'm not sure before. 

Can you use Pledge, if so it is a good sealing after paint job is completed.
Maybe also you can get one color decals sheet and cover the body of the car, instead of painting it.

 

[Anglia105E]

10 hours ago, Brizio said:

That's sad news. But you have a good spirity and will find a way to keep building! 
This hobby expose you to a lot of chemical, even some that we thingk ara "safe" like CA glue, could make reaction down the line.
In the instruction I saw 3D printed 6 cyl engine, 3D printed parts are safe for your situation? After cured, but I'm not sure before. 

Can you use Pledge, if so it is a good sealing after paint job is completed.
Maybe also you can get one color decals sheet and cover the body of the car, instead of painting it.

 

Thank you Fabrizio . . . The Rolls-Royce straight 6 cylinder engine was 3D printed by Shapeways in Holland around 3 years ago now, and at that time I primer painted the engine, as well as fully painting the engine also . . . This engine has been sitting on my shelf in the loft workshop for more than 2 years, so I the part should be safe to handle now !

You are right in saying that super glue ( CA ) is harmful to someone like me who has a lung infection, so this is why I am attempting to use PVA for the assembly of this plastic model car. As other members have pointed out, the PVA may not work with plastic properly . . .

Again, if possible I will not be using paint on the bodywork of this car, unless I can use Vallejo acrylics brushed on . . .

Thanks for reading my topic Fabrizio,

David

[Anglia105E]

12 hours ago, Mattilacken said:

Sad to hear about your condition but glad to hear your spirit! I do also use Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics( tamiya are smelly) but the Vallejo cleans out nicely with water, sure over time I might get buildup of paint in the upper part of the brush. But soaking them and wipe them on paper works very good. Keep the build going! Will be following! 

Thanks Anton . . . I might try using Vallejo acrylic paints for this project at some point. The body parts of this model are moulded in black plastic, so I thought maybe painting the body in black might not be absolutely necessary. I would like to try polishing the body to begin with, and see how it looks . . . This could involve using Meguiars Carnauba Wax if it does not contain any harmful chemicals, or perhaps natural beeswax polish, applied with micro fibre cloths . . .

David

[Pierre Rivard]

18 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Thanks a lot for your concern Pierre . . .   I do have a collection of Vallejo acrylics, but what I found was that you cannot simply wash the brush out with water. I had to use Isopropyl Alcohol to fully clean the brush. There is no way my lung can get anywhere near that chemical. Do you know if some acrylic paints can be fully cleaned with just water ? . . . Maybe the Tamiya spray acrylics could be an option ?

David

Hi David, I clean my brushes with dishwasher liquid then tap water. Also want to mention I do extensive thinning with acrylic thinner, which in essence is water+ flow additives+ binders. My favorite is the one from Green Stuff World. Do your research about Tamiya. Their acrylics are not 100% waterbased and do have a portion of co-solvent.

[johnyrotten]

David, sorry to hear about your condition. I have used craft acrylics thinned with createx 4011 or 4021 reducer,  brush painted with success. Found that little gem of knowledge here on the forum. I use it mainly for weathering and interior work. Soap and water clean up. No real odor that I can smell, though I'm aware a mask should be used when spraying createx products. It seems to help the paint flow out as well as with adhesion. 

[Anglia105E]

1 minute ago, johnyrotten said:

David, sorry to hear about your condition. I have used craft acrylics thinned with createx 4011 or 4021 reducer,  brush painted with success. Found that little gem of knowledge here on the forum. I use it mainly for weathering and interior work. Soap and water clean up. No real odor that I can smell, though I'm aware a mask should be used when spraying createx products. It seems to help the paint flow out as well as with adhesion. 

Many thanks John . . . We don't seem to have Createx products here in the UK, but the Vallejo paint products are widely available here for sure.

I shall be carrying out a few experimental applications during the coming weeks . . .

Thanks for following this topic.

David

[Ace-Garageguy]

Sorry to hear about your health issue, and applause for your attitude towards finding a way to continue doing what you obviously enjoy very much in spite of it.

I have no experience with using "safe" materials, other than using PVA glue to hold clear parts in place, which I've found to be entirely adequate if sufficient drying time is given.

Best wishes and good luck to you.

[johnyrotten]

5 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

Many thanks John . . . We don't seem to have Createx products here in the UK, but the Vallejo paint products are widely available here for sure.

I shall be carrying out a few experimental applications during the coming weeks . . .

Thanks for following this topic.

David

You're welcome,  I had a run in with legionnaires in 2019, a month in the hospital, 22 days of which was a medical coma so I understand the severity of your situation. I bounced back as I'm a younger guy, but it was that wake up call for me.

[David G.]

Maybe the reason you're having difficulty finding any more of those old Minicraft Rolls kits, David is because you have most of the ones still in existence! 

 

For paint have you considered Tamiya acrylics? I know they're a solvent based acrylic but their solvent is essentially the same as glass cleaner. Though I'm not sure if even that is within your safety zone. 

David G.

[Anglia105E]

9 minutes ago, David G. said:

Maybe the reason you're having difficulty finding any more of those old Minicraft Rolls kits, David is because you have most of the ones still in existence! 

 

For paint have you considered Tamiya acrylics? I know they're a solvent based acrylic but their solvent is essentially the same as glass cleaner. Though I'm not sure if even that is within your safety zone. 

David G.

Ha, Ha . . . You are not far wrong there David . . . Even more surprising is that I cannot find any Revell kits for the Silver Cloud either. Apart from those three Hubley kits sitting there in France, there are no RRSC kits anywhere in the World . . . Those kits in France have been on Ebay for around three years at least, and the prices have not come down in all that time. The sellers haven't even changed their listing from ' Buy it Now ' to ' Make an Offer ' . . . How can items on Ebay be posted Free from China, and yet they want £20.00 GBP to post from France to UK ? ( £20.00 GBP is US$. 26.88 )

Someone on MCM mentioned that Tamiya acrylics do contain a harmful solvent ingredient, which is a shame because they are nice paints. They also have a strong smell, which my wife would pick up in the house and give me a severe telling off !

David W.

[Anglia105E]

46 minutes ago, johnyrotten said:

You're welcome,  I had a run in with legionnaires in 2019, a month in the hospital, 22 days of which was a medical coma so I understand the severity of your situation. I bounced back as I'm a younger guy, but it was that wake up call for me.

Goodness me John, you were lucky to survive that experience, and I am pleased to hear that you are okay now . . . I shall be 72 years of age this October, so I have to take precautions and follow my doctor's expert advice . . .

David

[rattle can man]

The best way to find out what is in a specific glue or paint is to look up the Safety Data Sheet. (SDS) manufacturers have to provide these if their product contains something that is hazardous.  In the us stores are required to have them available for customers and employees. If they don't have them, try the MFG website or online SDS (or MSDS, the old acronym).

As a side note, labeling is not always straight forward. Farmers use ammonia as a fertilizer. It is marked and categorized as a non-poisonous, non-flammable gas (in the US, but other countries classify it differently). But the Emergency Response Guide Book, SDS, and every other safe handling guidance you can find state otherwise.

[Mark W]

I’m sorry to about your bad news Dave. I admire your perseverance and wish you the best in the future.

[Big Messer]

Many moons ago I did one of this, but the Hubley version. Same kit but lower quality... if that is possible. Got it a a messed up build with missing parts. And had a Car and Driver page of cartoons. So I made this. I made all decals in an ALPS printed that, for my eternal regret, sold. It has blinking LEDs and the sign is lighted.

Edited yesterday at 04:53 AM by Big Messer
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