Resin to Plastic glue options???

[WillyBilly]

I purchased a so-called Modelhaus resin wagon body for Revell Caprice/Impala SS models. I am not sure if it was or not, but it needed far too much work up front to work and look right. I have had more than a few Jimmy Flintstone bodies, and they are not bad at all. This thing was horrible. I said if I could take the part of the sedan body that is the same as the wagon, and the wagon specific part of the resin body that would be my best bet. So after much deliberation, I stuck it back in the box for a couple years. Yesterday I decided to see if I could cut the resin body up without destroying it beyond use. I think I did an ok job. I still have some sanding to do to get the two to mate up as they should. On the real car, the back is wider starting at the C-pillar, so the back doors bow outward a bit. This seems to be about the same with the model. The gap on the roof will come together once the doors line up with the quarters.

My big question is: Should I use Superglue to mate the two parts together, or is there another glue better suited for what I am looking to do?

[64SS350]

I would say yes to CA (super glue) being the best option. That should make a nice ride.

[Can-Con]

I'd say super glue too. 

sounds like your skeptical about it being a Modelhaus body. I would be too as I've never seen anything done by Modelhaus that WASN'T top quality.

Looks like the tail light trim is molded to the body? All the Modelhaus ones I've seen don't have that. 

Seems that now that they're out of business their kits have become like "original Vette 327s" transplanted to other cars back in the '70s and '80s, about 10 times more then ever were actually made.🙄😉

[Shark]

After super glue, I would reinforce the seam with a two part epoxy glue in an unnoticed place

[WillyBilly]

So I purchased this tonight. I have superglue, but wanted something a little thicker, and less runny for this.  

[peteski]

That should work. I also want to mention that I never spray the accelerator on anything, I use micro-brushes to apply it to the glued areas. I little goes a long way.

[Bugatti Fan]

As Shark mentioned, Epoxy Adhesive would be best for strength.

[NOBLNG]

If the material is thick enough, you could drill and pin it in a few spots for added strength.

[bobss396]

I like the Slo-Gap CA glue. It gives more time to position parts. 

Pinning is a great method. Join the 2 sections with styrene bar where it will be hidden and not in the way. Fill the pin holes later.

I use those Suisse fingernail wraps, it makes the spliced area very strong. Soak it with thin CA glue after it is placed. It has adhesive on 1 side. 

[WillyBilly]

My normal method for stretching cabs is to put styrene plates behind the joining points. I glue to one side, let it dry, then I have a holding point for the other side to bring the two halves together.

I will do the same here by supergluing plates/bars to both sides and roof on the resin side, followed by epoxy to make sure they stay put, then I will glue the plastic side to the plates with a fine bead along the seam from inside where I can. Other than the roof, the rest is a panel line, so I have to keep that in mind as I join the two sides.

Pic is how I have done it in the past when I am just dealing with styrene. The pic shows before the two halves are brought together.

Thanks for all the advice. I am feeling better about how this will come together now.

[Bills72sj]

I am following this. I have spliced semi truck frames. I have not attempted a body yet.