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'67 Triumph TR4A 4-17-18 Mirror update


Foxer

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I have been really hyped to progress on this build since getting the 3D Printed turn signals and they are all primed and ready for Alclad black and chrome. But, with a pile of small parts for this and other builds all mounted and hanging around, the TR4A bumpers have gone on vacation ... searched far and wide but they haven't shown up yet. I vaguely remember pulling all the parts needing chrome out with the intention of putting them all in one place ... where did I figure THAT place should be??

I think my mind is going .. :(

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Well, the bumpers have surfaced ... sitting in a metal bowl I recently got to put small parts in right on my bench!  ... not to find my glasses .. :lol:

I didn't go right to the Alclad as Shapeways has a new material that I ordered the turn signals in called Black High Definition Acrylate. High Definition Acrylate is made of a photo-reactive resin. It is printed using Direct Light Projection (DLP) technology which provides excellent resolution and accuracy. It is capable of fine details and is therefore ideal for miniatures and models trains. Additionally, the DLP process produces a smooth surface, making it well suited for painting. The material is heat resistant up to 120°C and is printed at 50 micron layer thickness.

It seems like the new Go To for small model parts without the layer roughness ... we'll see when I get them back.

 

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Well, the bumpers have surfaced ... sitting in a metal bowl I recently got to put small parts in right on my bench!  ... not to find my glasses .. :lol:

I didn't go right to the Alclad as Shapeways has a new material that I ordered the turn signals in called Black High Definition Acrylate. High Definition Acrylate is made of a photo-reactive resin. It is printed using Direct Light Projection (DLP) technology which provides excellent resolution and accuracy. It is capable of fine details and is therefore ideal for miniatures and models trains. Additionally, the DLP process produces a smooth surface, making it well suited for painting. The material is heat resistant up to 120°C and is printed at 50 micron layer thickness.

It seems like the new Go To for small model parts without the layer roughness ... we'll see when I get them back.

 

Sounds great, looking forward to see how it looks when you get it!

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I got the signals in the Black High Def Acrylate and they look good. There is a sort of ribbing on some sides and all along the bar connecting the two lights. Maybe just the orientation as I doesn't appear to be layer lines. I did a little sanding and it seemed to respond ... have to primer to see. The material had lots of very fine wisps off various places. I expect hitting with sand paper will knock them off. I is more like a rubber than the other material I tried.

TR4A%20Black%20Hi-Def%20Acrylate%20DSC_2

TR4A%20Black%20Hi-Def%20Acrylate%20DSC_2

TR4A%20Black%20Hi-Def%20Acrylate%20DSC_2

These photos are extreme close ups. Most of what you see can't be seen with the naked eye. They look smooth.

Edited by Foxer
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Here's a couple of shots of the turn signals and sears as they progress thru my creeping assemble line .. The grey turn signals are the Frosted Extreme Detail material and the black is the new Black High Def Acrylate. I decided to prep both and apply Alclad to see who wins in the end. Despite the 'roughness' of the black in my photos they smoothed out much easier.

The seats have one application of the white gel piping. Another will sharpen it so it really stands out.

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  • 7 months later...

I finished a Subaru project (!) and it's time to tidy this TR4A up! I used a Molotow chrome pen on the 3D Printed Turn Signals. The chrome is smooth and shiny ... these pens are a heavy weight addition to my arsenal! I just clipped them in place for a photo to see how they look.

I used a sharpie to color the orange lens, but There is a clear conical light cone right at the front. I'm considering just some white paint to add contrast. I've used various clears on chrome headlights for contrast, but I think these are just too small. The lights are less than 1/16 diameter.  Other suggestions would be welcome.

The body work is done and this may see some paint soon!

TR4A%20turn%20signals%20DSC_2258_zpsxlft

image.png.3358ec9e42acaa73de5d4c251de5825c.png

 

Edited by Foxer
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Ahhhh Very Nice Mike! I too am a big believer in those Molotow pens, as I just used them on an outside mirror for my Porsche 356 rescue project. Only quibble I have is that the paint seems to not like handling too soon..........I may try drying them hard with the dehydrator. You can't beat the reflective quality though short of sending them out to be chromed. ;)

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Ahhhh Very Nice Mike! I too am a big believer in those Molotow pens, as I just used them on an outside mirror for my Porsche 356 rescue project. Only quibble I have is that the paint seems to not like handling too soon..........I may try drying them hard with the dehydrator. You can't beat the reflective quality though short of sending them out to be chromed. ;)

In my 60 years I've never applied any liquid to a model that just flowed so well to itself ... it is seamless in addition to it's magical chrome properties!

Yes, it doesn't dry as fast as Metalizers ... I just treat it like regular paint and it can be handled in a day or two. The dehydrator sounds like a good idea.

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Great to see your TR on the front page again Mike! Been following your build and looking forward your next posts. Your attention to detail and presentation is top notch!

Edited by Misha
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I have a soft spot for TR4s as well.  I drove this car at Sebring in 1968.  We did well until about 8PM (race over at 10PM) and the car had somehow gotten too lean a mixture and holed a piston, putting an end to the effort. The team was 2nd in class with this car in a previous year.  It had a Laycock overdrive and would go about 135 on the long straights.

Nice work on the model.  Glad to know there is a kit out there.

 

TR4 Sebring 1968 (1468 x 1164).jpg

Although MGBs were my passion (or poison), I always thought the TR4 was a much better car ... if only for its chassis.  The TR6 was a wonderful car for a club racer ... I think Paul Newman started in TR6's.  Thank you for the picture.

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Thinks are now moving WAY too fast for me! Was above 90 yesterday in the Berkshires and today ... been out soaking up the sun!

But, I tried the Molotow chrome pen on a bumper to see how it comes out. I like it, but maybe I should sand smoother ... debating that. The bumper was painted a gloss black ready for Alclad. Shows how good these pens cover. Looks like the left side needs to go up a speck.

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Chrome%20pen%20bumper%20DSC_2273_zpsb6m1

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The interior side panels need some detailing. These are kit pieces. There are PE brackets and handle for to door pull. The crank and open handles are going to be replaces .. just too open with a vert. I need to find something close ... anyone got a lead after looking at the 1:1 photo below?

1965-triumph-tr4-steering-wheel_zpseisir

interior%20sides%20DSC_2275_zpsaeiyhzps.

 

 

Edited by Foxer
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  • 2 weeks later...

I chromed the rear bumper after smoothing the black waiting for Alclad. Then did the pen. The bumper flexed a lot making the application awkward. I'll probably reapply on top.

Bumper%20rear%20DSC_2284_zpsi1tm2uop.jpg

 

I'll been fussing over the exposed interior with the door handles. These are some Parts Box exterior handles reconfigured for the interior. Just some filing for the button handle and a small rod on the end of another for the crank. Punched disks are the door handle faceplates.

interior%20handles%20DSC_2283_zpsjob8vyf

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  • 10 months later...

I'm getting an itch to get back to my TR4A as the weather slowly comes out of Winter. I needed a outside rear view mirror and, after polling the forum on where to find one, I just went down as recommended and made one. Here's a shot of the mirror in question ...

image.png.9048e52dcbc42ff04c4df9cfeeef3945.png

I used a chunk of sprew in the drill and shaped the main body. The large sprew even had a center void to allow drilling a hole down the middle for a brass pin! I found an old beadlight bucket in to Old Parts box and flattened the end after drilling a center hole. This is it at this stage and I believe it will look close to the 1:1. It's going to be tricky sawing the bucket to a small sliver, but a lot of filing may be in store near the end. I'll cut a disk to insert for the mirror in the end. The hole in the main cone will get a pin with a slot like the original.

Then. a brass pin where the arm is and trapped between a couple .02" flats which will be sanded to shape.

Where's my Molotow Pen? 

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This was to last missing piece. I worked on refining the clear red taillights that will be trimmed with Molotow Chrome. Did a little paint pickout on the chassis and got the wheel metal axle mounts fixed in place. I ordered interior door handles from R&M so it will be a bit before they are placed ... maybe right at the end I hope. :)

image.png.37b00ff4677e0ea0074df23aece6c2fc.png

image.png

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Good luck with replicating the mirror. It is definitely hard to find one on another kit that looks right. One of the nicest I have seen is on the Italeri and Tamiya Mercedes 300SL kits but you might not want to rob them from those kits but you could possibly take a resin cast.

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18 hours ago, Phildaupho said:

Good luck with replicating the mirror. It is definitely hard to find one on another kit that looks right. One of the nicest I have seen is on the Italeri and Tamiya Mercedes 300SL kits but you might not want to rob them from those kits but you could possibly take a resin cast.

I looked and that is very close, but I'd have to buy a kit. I'm making progress and it's god as done if I can get a good slice of the bucket end.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress on mirrors ...  The body is done and I am very satisfied with how it looks.

image.png.9387768599389f97a3fc6263c9eaff37.png

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For the mounting arm. I first tried gluing two strips around a pin and sanded to shape. Both got too thin and failed. This pic shows the two pieces before destruction. I also worked refining the red tail light lenses to receive some Molotow chrome.

image.thumb.png.607e48f860250d652126f6951cd2fb76.png

 

Then I just used a round piece and made it a bit oval. I used Molotow but it didn't come out well. Maybe needs better washing and some finer sandpaper on it.

image.thumb.png.a7cd585242c60abd54d57ed1b692b46a.png

 

 

 

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