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'32 Ford roadster gluebomb rework. April 26: back on track


Ace-Garageguy

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On 6/17/2012 at 9:12 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

 

Yes, Williams has a pair in 1/32, both the R-1 and the Z. They also make some other important racing planes of the period. Nice kits.

Not to hijack your thread, but is this the most recent version of the Lindberg kit you are referring too? 

Lindberg Coca Cola Gee Bee Racer 1:32 Scale Model Kit

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1 hour ago, Mr. Metallic said:

Not to hijack your thread, but is this the most recent version of the Lindberg kit you are referring too? 

To the best of my knowledge, that's a re-branded "Coke" repop of the approximately 1/26 scale model I refer to, and show, earlier in the thread.

The Lindberg kit was always INCORRECTLY labeled as 1/32, a mistake endlessly rebleated on the interdwerbs, when in fact it is 1/26 (determined by using very simple arithmetic after measuring the model's wingspan).

The tiny little pilot figure in the Lindberg kit is 1/32. The rest of the kit is 1/26.

Numbers and grade-school arithmetic have apparently been exceptionally difficult for "professional" adults for decades.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 11 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Nothing to see here. I decided to respray the body with Duplicolor "Universal Black", 'cause I couldn't get the hardware store can of black lacquer to spray, and the Duplicolor lacquer is darker and cleaner anyway.

So after scuffing the body and prepping the hood, rad shell, and deckid again, I shot everything.

It looked great, flowed out real nice...and then the paint on the body started cracking. I did NOT expect that, putting lacquer over old lacquer, but it happened and I'll have to fix it.

Maybe I can still get her done by the end of the year, but for this weekend's show, fuggedaboudit.

 

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15 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Nothing to see here. I decided to respray the body with Duplicolor "Universal Black", 'cause I couldn't get the hardware store can of black lacquer to spray, and the Duplicolor lacquer is darker and cleaner anyway.

So after scuffing the body and prepping the hood, rad shell, and deckid again, I shot everything.

It looked great, flowed out real nice...and then the paint on the body started cracking. I did NOT expect that, putting lacquer over old lacquer, but it happened and I'll have to fix it.

Maybe I can still get her done by the end of the year, but for this weekend's show, fuggedaboudit.

 

Man that sucks, and added to another reason on my list for not trusting old paint. When I wandered down the rebuilder path, I made it a habit to fully strip old painted parts. 
I got bitten once and that was enough. 

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Yeah, well, thing is I'd painted it with hardware store "lacquer" not that many years ago, and I've never had any problem shooting lacquer over lacquer, ever, since the dawn of time.

But I suspect the Duplicolor stuff's a whole lot hotter than the hardware store stuff. It looks like I can possibly sand the cracked areas, then build up coats of Duplicolor slowly, plenty of flash time between. Maybe. We'll see.

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  • 6 months later...
13 hours ago, Calb56 said:

Just got sent this link... now I want to see it done.

:D  Me too.

Every couple of weeks, I'll sand the body and try to shoot more Duplicolor lacquer over the cracks...but every time, more open up.

I'm trying to avoid stripping it, as there is bodywork that'll have to be redone if I do.

Like I said above, I assumed shooting Duplicolor lacquer over hardware store lacquer that had been dry for years would be safe.

Wrong.  🎻

 

 

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2 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

:D  Me too.

Every couple of weeks, I'll sand the body and try to shoot more Duplicolor lacquer over the cracks...but every time, more open up.

I'm trying to avoid stripping it, as there is bodywork that'll have to be redone if I do.

Like I said above, I assumed shooting Duplicolor lacquer over hardware store lacquer that had been dry for years would be safe.

Wrong.  🎻

 

 

Use 2K primer. It is available in most Autozones and it will solve all your problems once and for all You can shoot whatever you want over it. Another really cool thing is that putty will bond perfectly to it, but will never sag plastic, no matter how much you put on. Also it makes automotive bondo usable as it also bonds well to it. 

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Lacquer dries by evaporation of the thinner and other volatiles in the paint but remains more or less soluble.  The same holds true for lacquer spot putty or most model building fillers that we use around here. Repeating the same steps, no matter how much time elapses, will probably create the same issue.  As the thinner in the new paint reacts to the old paint, it may also get to the plastic and bodywork below. Adding a good layer of sealer or primer-sealer will create a barrier between old and new lacquer.  Sometimes it takes a couple of good coats of sealer, but most sealers are very thin and spray straight form the can.

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21 hours ago, mrm said:

Use 2K primer...

 

7 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Lacquer dries by evaporation of the thinner and other volatiles in the paint but remains more or less soluble...

I appreciate the input, but much of my own experience dates back to paint work on real cars when lacquer was still in general use.

Recoating lacquer with lacquer during repairs was very rarely an issue, and was pretty much SOP.

In the case of this particular model, the hardware store lacquer cracked up because it couldn't withstand the hot solvents in the Duplicolor product (which has never cracked when I've recoated it with more Duplicolor, by the way).

As a general rule, I don't like "sealers"...not on real cars either. And I don't want to bury the thing in more and more layers of stuff anyway.

If I can't 'trick' the finish into cooperating, which IS quite likely based on what I've been able to pull off in the past, I'll just strip the body and do it in Duplicolor from the git go.

One aside...most of this build was intentionally done with vintage parts and materials that would have been available to modelers back in the '60s. Not everyone had access to model-specific paints, and my initial hardware store black lacquer job looked just fine. But that can aged out during a lull in the work, could not be made so spray, I didn't wat to decant it at the time, and the replacement hardware-store paint wasn't a good match. That's when I decided to just get on with it and shoot it all in Duplicolor.

That's where we are today, and if I have to strip it to achieve the quality I expect, so be it.  B)

 

 

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  • 4 months later...
19 hours ago, Bullybeef said:

Well on the subject of dragging your builds to the forefront, and chance of seeing progress in this one Bill? 

Since you asked...I've been carefully sanding off the cracked layer of Duplicolor lacquer over hardware store "lacquer" to get back down to the Duplicolor primer on the main body shell.

Then I'll re-prime with Duplicolor, re-scribe the panel lines, and finish with Duplicolor or Tamiya.

Not much to see right now, but she should look like something by year's end.   :D

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14 hours ago, Bullybeef said:

Here’s hoping the paint Plays nicely this time. 

Thanks. I hope so too...but if it doesn't, I'll just keep reworking it until it's right. 

The only problem is on the body shell itself, and it's not a very large body.

Stripping is out, as there's bodywork I don't want to have to re-do, so sanding is the only way to go.  :D

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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