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Posted

No doubt about it, you most certainly are the Scale Master.

Many may try, but no one is on the same level of expertise when it comes to scratch building with various materials.

Amazing amount of high quality craftsmanship and scale engineering.

Posted

Serious question from me for once! I notice that the rough finish you put on the parts that would be castings in 1/1 is just a little exaggerated. Will that get toned down a bit with the color coat? Or is it a scale effect that you like? Just curious.

By the way, I was serious about GSL having the trophies engraved for you for next year.

Posted

Not only you build fantastic models, you do it very fast, too! Do you sleep at all :lol: ? The talent in this thread makes me really speechless...Fantastic work.

Posted

Serious question from me for once! I notice that the rough finish you put on the parts that would be castings in 1/1 is just a little exaggerated. Will that get toned down a bit with the color coat? Or is it a scale effect that you like? Just curious.

Some of the texture is exaggerated somewhat so it will be visible when installed into the car in hard to see areas. Also my camera tends to make the texture look a bit more harsh than it looks to the naked eye.

And thanks!

Yes, I sleep, and work, and drink coffee...

Posted

Ok, great, now get back to work! It's been a week since you put any new photos up and I'm starting to show signs of withdrawal! :wacko: Great work Mark. I know I've said this before but this is the show stopper.

Posted

It's not that I haven't been working on it every day Pete, it just takes time make something worth showing.

These are most of the raw acid cut brass lap belt buckles.

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Here is the seatbelt hardware set after it has been “powder coated” semi-gloss black.

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The belts and hardware have been assembled. The shoulder belts have pull down adjusters; the lap belts are the pull up style.

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Posted

I am making a diamond tufted pattern for the seating surfaces. First I cut the pattern of properly spaced diamonds out of vinyl and applied them to a sheet of decal paper. Then I cut another set of diamonds, each about .020 smaller, and applied them individually to the vinyl already on the decal paper. (That is 262 pieces of vinyl per seat.)

In this photo the left (the seat back) shows the two layers of vinyl on the decal paper. On the right is the lower seat cushion, it has a decal I made applied on top of the vinyl texture that contains the red stitching that runs between all the diamonds.

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Here are the textured decals ready to apply.

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Posted

Wait, I want to understand this. So you laid down the two layers of vinyl diamonds on the decal paper, then on top of that you added a separate decal consisting of the overall "vinyl" texture and the red stitching... then you applied that "decal sandwich" to the seats? Am I reading that right? Very ingenious.

Posted

All I can say after going through this 40 page odyssey is WOW! I have always loved AC's Lotus and to have a brother who has an Elan with the Cosworth, I appreciate the great work in reproducing some of the engineering on this model, Well done,

greg

Posted

Hey Mark... not to put too fine a point on it, but once more, explain your method of creating the seat decals. How were you able to lay the top decal over the vinyl diamonds and base decal without the base decal detaching from the paper? Is there just not enough moisture there to disturb the base decal? And once the "decal sandwich" was made, how were you able to wet the sandwich to release it from the base decal's paper without the top decal layer coming off?

Posted

Since there is clear lacquer on the top of the decal paper water won't hurt it. It's getting it wet on the back (paper side) that would activate and release the decal. Once the decal glue from the top layer is dry, the "fresh" glue on the bottom layer lets loose from the paper much easier when it is wetted.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

:blink: :o OMG! I LOVE those seat inserts Mark, they could truly pass as 1:1 in my book. Sensational work mate. :)

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