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Posted

Hey.

Just wondering about some of the challenges you have encountered working with resin kits. I have a bit of experience with them, but I know that there are many modellers who are reluctant to build them because of the various differences between resin and normal kits.

What are some of your gripes over working with resin and what improvements would you like to see that would make them easier to build, for example instructions.

Anyway let me know what you think.

Cheers.

Posted

All of the above. The biggest thing for myself is to remember to clean and clean any and all resin parts before you bring them into your work area. If you are sanding to make the resin part fit with the plastic parts, and you will be sanding a lot, do it outside or far away from your normal work area. The resin part should be cleaned again and again. You will have problems with paint on anything that has resin "dust" on it. Use an automotive type primer for the resin bodies since normal plastic primers don't seem to adhere that well.

Posted

Having a product on my to buy list only to have the manufacturer drop the product or even go out of business before I purchase it.

Posted

All of the above are issues . Patience will overcome the thickness and fitment issues . I have to address the glass issue here . I am not a proponet of attaching styrene glass on styrene with conventional styrene cement . Glass might fog up as some glue might seep into the wrong place . To the exposed surface on the outside is one of these unwanted places . If Super Glue is used = Fogged Glass . I use Elmer's or white glue . It is no problem to remove access . Down the road into the future , I may want to re-do a build . The windows "Tap Out" with ease . Or for the timid as in small glass areas , a quick soak turns the White Glue Soft . . I have many problems with Resin Ragtops and the windshield seperating over time . I recently sprung for Watch Crystal Glue . It is clear and clean up of excess is possible . I have not decided to rework any of those builds as of yet . About the problem of Supply and Demand . I have no fix for either . "You can't always get what you want " . Thanx ..

Posted

I'm in a project with a resin body and interior parts, from two different manufacturers. The body reacts exactly like plastic, the interior pieces are brittle. I had to glue in a reinforcement brace while working with the interior parts. If the body is a nice casting, cutting glass is no big deal. If it's a lump, your work is cut out.

No pun intended…..

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have found the biggest challenge often is getting the body to fit the transkit without major (unforeseen) surgery. it just always seems to pop up, no matter how often I have test fitted pieces. gluing in the windshield and other windows is kind of difficult sometimes too and leaves unexpected clearance problems.

ive never really had a problem with contamination but I always soak resin parts in westleys bleach white for 24 hours, and again after major sanding, which as indicated, can be extensive especially if you are looking to thin major areas of the body, a common procedure. I usually wear a dust mask and keep the work wet so the dust doesn't really blow all over, or better take it outdoors for the brutal grinding to get it near to correct.

jb

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