fractalign Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Hey. Just wondering about some of the challenges you have encountered working with resin kits. I have a bit of experience with them, but I know that there are many modellers who are reluctant to build them because of the various differences between resin and normal kits. What are some of your gripes over working with resin and what improvements would you like to see that would make them easier to build, for example instructions. Anyway let me know what you think. Cheers.
Craig Irwin Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Thinning bodys that are too thick for the kit parts to fit. It's not hard, just time consuming.
Danno Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Not being able to afford all the terrific resin products out there!
espo Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 All of the above. The biggest thing for myself is to remember to clean and clean any and all resin parts before you bring them into your work area. If you are sanding to make the resin part fit with the plastic parts, and you will be sanding a lot, do it outside or far away from your normal work area. The resin part should be cleaned again and again. You will have problems with paint on anything that has resin "dust" on it. Use an automotive type primer for the resin bodies since normal plastic primers don't seem to adhere that well.
iBorg Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Having a product on my to buy list only to have the manufacturer drop the product or even go out of business before I purchase it.
rickcaps55 Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 I love resin kits but the two bad points for me is the GLASS and not being able to use plain old glue.!!!!!
Daddyfink Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Buying it and then having the Model companies make a plastic one!
dimaxion Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 All of the above are issues . Patience will overcome the thickness and fitment issues . I have to address the glass issue here . I am not a proponet of attaching styrene glass on styrene with conventional styrene cement . Glass might fog up as some glue might seep into the wrong place . To the exposed surface on the outside is one of these unwanted places . If Super Glue is used = Fogged Glass . I use Elmer's or white glue . It is no problem to remove access . Down the road into the future , I may want to re-do a build . The windows "Tap Out" with ease . Or for the timid as in small glass areas , a quick soak turns the White Glue Soft . . I have many problems with Resin Ragtops and the windshield seperating over time . I recently sprung for Watch Crystal Glue . It is clear and clean up of excess is possible . I have not decided to rework any of those builds as of yet . About the problem of Supply and Demand . I have no fix for either . "You can't always get what you want " . Thanx ..
FASTBACK340 Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 I'm in a project with a resin body and interior parts, from two different manufacturers. The body reacts exactly like plastic, the interior pieces are brittle. I had to glue in a reinforcement brace while working with the interior parts. If the body is a nice casting, cutting glass is no big deal. If it's a lump, your work is cut out. No pun intended…..
Sixx Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 Cutting, fitting, and gluing the "glass" in and keeping it smudge free
my80malibu Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 Warping is a huge disappointment in working with resin. Extensive clean up sucks too.
caine440 Posted January 11, 2014 Posted January 11, 2014 Making the glass can be a pain but not that big of deal to me. I seem to fight warped hoods the most . lol
jbwelda Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 I have found the biggest challenge often is getting the body to fit the transkit without major (unforeseen) surgery. it just always seems to pop up, no matter how often I have test fitted pieces. gluing in the windshield and other windows is kind of difficult sometimes too and leaves unexpected clearance problems. ive never really had a problem with contamination but I always soak resin parts in westleys bleach white for 24 hours, and again after major sanding, which as indicated, can be extensive especially if you are looking to thin major areas of the body, a common procedure. I usually wear a dust mask and keep the work wet so the dust doesn't really blow all over, or better take it outdoors for the brutal grinding to get it near to correct. jb
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