Twokidsnosleep Posted March 6, 2015 Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) If you need a wood dash cut out from a pattern let me know.....I have a scroll saw and two somewhat able hands Edited March 6, 2015 by Twokidsnosleep
bobthehobbyguy Posted March 6, 2015 Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) I think the dash looks great. Its a good match to the photo of the real dash. Doesn't look like you are cutting corners to me. Edited March 6, 2015 by bobthehobbyguy
sjordan2 Posted March 6, 2015 Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) Even though the kit scale is a large 1/8. I think Cato's burlwood technique is a far superior choice to real wood, and is particularly valuable in smaller scales. - You can find, scale and adjust the wood / pattern you want. In this case, real burlwood patterns are much larger than would look real on a model. - Most classics of the era have heavily lacquered/varnished dashes that hide any visible 3D wood texture, so what's the point of real wood? - Most cars of the era had thin veneers over a thicker, different wood substrate, not to be seen. I haven't seen many, or any, better wood dash applications than this. You can find thousands of wood varieties to download at https://www.certainlywood.com/ Edited March 6, 2015 by sjordan2
Belugawrx Posted March 6, 2015 Posted March 6, 2015 I agree with Skip To use real burled walnut at this scale,...you would end up with 1/4 of a burl, in that size dash,... Cato I think your Sedanca is looking great!! Cheers
Cato Posted March 7, 2015 Author Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) Best I could do... Went ahead to the bitter end and now I'll live with it. Made some changes, adjustments and more details. Only thing missing is rear mirror stanchion and I'll get that gem from MMC. Hopefully that will improve this sows ear. Pics purposely slightly overexposed. It looks mostly 'orange' but honest, it has the red and dark swirls of the burl. Shot with the leather and carpet, I think they all work OK color-wise. Remember you're seeing it from a lower angle than it will display in the car. Looks better from upper vantage point. I can live with it but learned a lesson about cutting corners. I just feel that I didn't approach the visual impact of the more life-like engine / chassis combo. Well done wood would have done that but I don't know if I could have done it so well. It was important to me to obtain an overall level of presentation of the project without 'uneven' areas of assembly or detail. I hope I don't have other let-downs in the subsequent work: Edited March 7, 2015 by Cato
sjordan2 Posted March 7, 2015 Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) I repeat. You didn't cut corners, you made an original improvement for a unique and better-looking model. That is one of the best-looking dashes I've seen on a classic model, including any Pocher. Except for Harry's more rustic brass-era cars, I think it's totally realistic, more than real wood would have provided, and could not have been achieved otherwise for a burl wood finish. Edited March 7, 2015 by sjordan2
bobthehobbyguy Posted March 8, 2015 Posted March 8, 2015 I repeat. You didn't cut corners, you made an original improvement for a unique and better-looking model. That is one of the best-looking dashes I've seen on a classic model, including any Pocher. Except for Harry's more rustic brass-era cars, I think it's totally realistic, more than real wood would have provided, and could not have been achieved otherwise for a burl wood finish. I agree with Skip you are not cutting corners. The quality of the dash matches what you have done on the chassis and engine. Keep up the good work.
bbowser Posted March 8, 2015 Posted March 8, 2015 I agree with Skip you are not cutting corners. The quality of the dash matches what you have done on the chassis and engine. Keep up the good work. X3. We are often our own worst critics, but then that's how it should be. Great work.
southpier Posted March 9, 2015 Posted March 9, 2015 yeah; you gotta chill. this is 10x better than most. let's put everything in perspective, now. and remember ....... breathe!
Cato Posted March 10, 2015 Author Posted March 10, 2015 X3. We are often our own worst critics, but then that's how it should be. Great work. Bruce has me correct; I'm my own worst enemy and own worst critic. You other guys are great too; the encouragement and support is welcomed. Thanks
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2015 Posted March 10, 2015 I haven't checked in here for a while... just seeing/reading the dash and seat comments/photos for the first time. I have to agree with Skip and others... real burled wood would not have been to scale. Plus, as Skip noted, the finish on these dashes was glass-smooth lacquer... there was absolutely no woodgrain visible, so using real wood in this case would actually not have worked as well (and been a lot more labor-intensive) than using your photographic technique. I really don't see any way to make your dash look any better... it's right up there as far as quality goes with the rest of the model (engine and chassis). Also the leather upholstered seat looks great! Again, hard to criticize anything I see here. I say take a deep breath and relax. You are doing spectacular work.
Cato Posted March 10, 2015 Author Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) ... it's right up there as far as quality goes with the rest of the model (engine and chassis). Also the leather upholstered seat looks great! Again, hard to criticize anything I see here. Great to see you back in action Harry. Your comments most appreciated. Your quote above was the thing I was most worried for; letting-down anything good I might have done before. I want an even over-all presentation of detail and feared paper might let that down. If others like the technique, feel free to use it. It's not 'simple,' but tons easier than marquetry. And the results apparently get by. I'm currently trying another brain-storm and it's a corner-cutter too. Show you in a day or two......... EDIT: I am mildly surprised by your acceptance of my faux wood idea; You famously stated earlier in my thread that 'nothing looks like wood more than real wood' - or words of substance. I think it was where I did the underside floorboards in ply. Wacky; the cabin where you see it is fake and the bottom which you will only see in a mirror is real... Edited March 10, 2015 by Cato
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2015 Posted March 10, 2015 I still stand by my "nothing looks more like real wood than real wood" comment... it holds true most of the time. But in this particular case–trying to replicate burled wood–using actual burled wood would probably: A. Looked out of scale, B. Been tough to work with (compared to clear basswood, for example), and C. Required a ton of sealing/lacquering/polishing, etc. until it was glass smooth and absolutely no grain shows. Sure you could have used real wood, but given the end result you were after in this case, "cutting corners" was definitely the way to go here. So in this particular application, your technique is the way to go. For the floorboards you did, real wood was the way to go, because basswood has almost no visible grain and can be stained and weathered to look like almost any other wood (except burled wood, obviously!). And I use real wood for the firewall/dash on my brass-era cars, again because the real wood (basswood that I stain and varnish) looks "right" to me at that scale (1/16). When I finally get around to doing my 1/8 Rolls woody, I'll be using real wood. Structural pieces for the framework, and sheet/veneer for the panels. All basswood, stained and varnished to look like maple and mahogany (both of which don't have a strong grain pattern in real life).
Cato Posted March 10, 2015 Author Posted March 10, 2015 When I finally get around to doing my 1/8 Rolls woody, I'll be using real wood. Structural pieces for the framework, and sheet/veneer for the panels. All basswood, stained and varnished to look like maple and mahogany (both of which don't have a strong grain pattern in real life). Bring it on Harry...
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2015 Posted March 10, 2015 Bring it on Harry... I really should. I've been thinking about this one for literally years now. Time to actually get on with it...
Cato Posted March 10, 2015 Author Posted March 10, 2015 I really should. I've been thinking about this one for literally years now. Time to actually get on with it... You must. It's a combination of a car and a stagecoach. And you've done one of those!
Twokidsnosleep Posted March 10, 2015 Posted March 10, 2015 Harry's done a stagecoach??! I was just looking at a kit for one of those
Twokidsnosleep Posted March 10, 2015 Posted March 10, 2015 Love it Now how about some hand carved horses! I want to get one that fits the scale of some moulded horses, just to complete it You never cease to amaze me
sjordan2 Posted March 11, 2015 Posted March 11, 2015 I really should. I've been thinking about this one for literally years now. Time to actually get on with it... Please. I'm not getting any younger.
Harry P. Posted March 11, 2015 Posted March 11, 2015 Please. I'm not getting any younger. Me neither!
Cato Posted March 12, 2015 Author Posted March 12, 2015 Next short-cut... Again looking for a subassembly that wouldn't be epic in length, I decided to try my hand at the cabin carpet. Have to pick and choose my available time to work. I had previously purchased a great fabric carpet from a doll house supply house. It's a cotton / velour blend with a low nap and nice sturdy backing; perfect I felt for 1/8 scale. The color was close to what I wanted for my combination. To start, I made a tape template of the floor pan area which would be carpeted. Then I made a stronger but thin (.016") template from ply: While working on the tape, I came across the 'secret' to this brain-storm; electrical shrink tube. About .075" wide, I saw it had two folded edges. I wondered if trimming close to those edges but leaving the 90 degree fold would give me carpet edging or binding. Prior to this I had nightmares about folding a strip of leather or worse yet, piping around that edge of carpet. Don't get me wrong, I've seen plenty of RR's with beautiful leather or piped edging; done by far more skilled builders than myself. Since I'd already set a precedent for slacking with my 'wood' IP, I was more at ease cheating here too. I experimented with widths and settled on 2 - 3mm as what I could reasonably work with. This gave me a roughly 5/8" 1;1 size which I thought was acceptable. Toughest job; cutting mitered corners that matched. Best glue to use; Loctite Gel CA: Here is the combination mocked-in place; nothing glued yet as the step plates and door jambs still require paint (c'mon warm weather) and some small final trimming around the pedal openings. The carpet will lay completely flat after gluing as I trimmed off the Pocher locating ribs in the center and back edge of the floor pan: Same view only with seats blocking all that hard work. I will NOT use these Pocher front seats which I never liked in any models I've seen; too upright for my taste: Seen up close, the color combinations are close to what I wanted. I found that a light rubbing on the shrink tube with 320 grit (or gray scuff pad) produced a gray very close to the seat leather and not a harsh black edge. The tubing has a nice supple black finish which sands easily - a happy accident. Some touches of burl wood on the door tops and maybe near the rear seat sides will carry the theme through the cabin - I hope:
southpier Posted March 12, 2015 Posted March 12, 2015 (edited) that's flippin' genus (sic)!!! ps: i'm stealing that idea for fan belts Edited March 12, 2015 by southpier
Twokidsnosleep Posted March 12, 2015 Posted March 12, 2015 Oh man, you rolled out the red carpet for your Rolls! Awesome stuff, looks perfect I am stealing that idea for edging AND the fan belt idea too from Joe Nice ones guys Ps are you making front seats???
Cato Posted March 12, 2015 Author Posted March 12, 2015 Steal away guys - glad you approve. I WILL make front seats after; A. I have an opportunity. B. Figger out how the heck I can.
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