Tamyia TS-13 is back

[Danno]

Testors Wet Look is much better. Duplicolor Clear is pretty equal to TS13. Some people just think it* must be better because it* costs a lot more.

*= Tamiya.

Edited July 2, 2014 by Danno

[Dragline]

Duplicolor for me as well.

That Tamiya stuff is so HOT and tends to crack for me as well.

Glad to see those that love it have it again.

Bob

[Exotics_Builder]

I decant my TS-13 Clear as well. I just push down on the nozzle and aim toward the model car body and it works great!

[martinfan5]

I personally have never used it, and probably wont when it comes back into stock, I will stick with Mr Super Clear and Testors One Coat Wet

[Harry P.]

I've heard good things about the Testors One Coat. Gotta try that.

[Harry P.]

A related question... the fact that the Tamiya stuff was pulled from the market, and now it's back... does that suggest maybe a change in formulation? Otherwise why stop selling it and then start again? Maybe they've addressed the bubbling problem. Just a guess.

[jbwelda]

I doubt very much it was "pulled from the market"...more likely they (Tamiya Japan) stopped distributing it to the USA...was it still available via HobbyLink Japan? The USA is a fringe market for Tamiya. They probably had to relabel it or something stupid for the yanks so little johnny would know not to stick the nozzle up his nostril without "protection".

Tamiya clear gives a really nice smooth thin clear...not a "wet look" phony clear look, just a nice thin clear mostly to protect the finish and decals. I use it all the time and never ever have had a problem with it that wasn't of my own making. never cracks chips or attacks the finish like most of the cheap stuff (cough duplicolor cough) seems to do every time I have used it. Nor does it seem to have problems over other company's paint. perhaps problems come when you try to simulate a wet look by really dumping it on, but in light to moderate coats...never had a problem.

so I think its a great thing it has or will return (to the US market). there is nothing similar if you want a gloss clear without the super gloss wet look...and I find myself wanting that all the time.

jb

[Harry P.]

there is nothing similar if you want a gloss clear without the super gloss wet look...

[slusher]

Not exactly a rave review.

So again, I wonder... what makes this stuff so worthy of all the gushing and giddiness with some people, given the fact that there are tons of clears out there, most of which sell for a lot less per ounce?

What makes it so special? Not trying to be a jerk, I'm seriously asking, because I've never used it, but have used Duplicolor clear and been perfectly satisfied.

I have some friends who swear by it. I have never used it and I like testors clear coats..

Edited July 2, 2014 by slusher

[Ramfins59]

I've never had any problems with Duplicolor clear and I've been using it for years, plus, you get a LOT more in the larger can...... usually enough for 3 or more models depending on how many coats you apply.

[heinz74]

i always use two pack ..and don't even think about enamel paint nowadays..

but i used to use Duplicolor in the past..it did the trick everytime..

[Daddyfink]

I use Tamiya and Testors Wet and I like them both, but, Tamiya does have an edge over it. Tamiya has to be mastered a bit, but once you figure it out, it is well worth it.

As for the bubbling problem, the fix is to not press on the nozzle too long! Smooth and quick strokes are what is needed when applying Tamiya paints. Otherwise you will start loading up and getting sags, runs and bubbles. The paint is nice and thin and it comes out of the can rather quickly. If you can't handle that, then stick to the slower stuff.

One of the biggest reasons Tamiya paint keeps going away is due to the EPA. I don't know how many times they have to keep re-labeling their products to meet their ever changing policies.

[Austin T]

I use Tamiya and Testors Wet and I like them both, but, Tamiya does have an edge over it. Tamiya has to be mastered a bit, but once you figure it out, it is well worth it.

As for the bubbling problem, the fix is to not press on the nozzle too long! Smooth and quick strokes are what is needed when applying Tamiya paints. Otherwise you will start loading up and getting sags, runs and bubbles. The paint is nice and thin and it comes out of the can rather quickly. If you can't handle that, then stick to the slower stuff.

One of the biggest reasons Tamiya paint keeps going away is due to the EPA. I don't know how many times they have to keep re-labeling their products to meet their ever changing policies.

Hopefully we don't have another episode of what happened ages ago when Tamiya pulled all their paints out of the USA for a year because of that. I had a friend that lived in Buffalo NY at the time and would make routine trips into Canada just for Tamiya paints.

Edited July 2, 2014 by Austin T

[freakshow12]

I had terrible luck with Tamiya cans for a long time but now my last 2 builds I must have figured it out. My mach I used orange and it's thin and shrinks BUT after a few days I applied one more coat and it came out perfect with no clear. Quick polish and it was a winner. My cuda I used the met blue and covered with testors wet look. Quick polish and I think I may have another great model. The key is a little heat in the can and some practice

[Daddyfink]

Hopefully we don't have another episode of what happened ages ago when Tamiya pulled all their paints out of the USA for a year because of that. I had a friend that lived in Buffalo NY at the time and would make routine trips into Canada just for Tamiya paints.

I have cans with the stick on labels they had to do in a hurry to keep the stuff in the U.S. At one of the Tamiya Con shows, they where giving the paint away so they did not have to label it again! I easily went home with a few hundred bucks worth of paints!

They have pulled other products as well just because of labeling issues with the EPA. Even their polishing compounds where once held back.

[Harry P.]

They have pulled other products as well just because of labeling issues with the EPA.

Labeling issues? Or content issues?

[Daddyfink]

Labeling issues? Or content issues?

Labeling issues, and that is going from what I was told by the Tamiya folks. I have used their products before and after and have never noticed any changes in how the product worked.

Edited July 2, 2014 by Daddyfink

[caine440]

I tried lots of different clears some with really bad results. I have settled on Testors wet look and have never had a cracking issue or problems going over decals.

[Pete J.]

Being an "imported" paint seems to be a issue for Tamiya. There are so many government agencies involved, I a surprised they put up with the nonsense, but glad that they do. Mostly it is a matter of labeling. I remember Tamiya America having to hire a bunch of temp workers to go to the warehouse and stick labels on thousands of cans of paint so they could sell the stock they had on hand. There are differences in labeling requirements for "hobby" paints because of how they are sold and to whom. Can't tell you the specifics but it is our government protecting children, even though they really don't participate in this hobby so much.

Having said that, Tamiya paint is excellent quality. As to those who prefer it or not, it is like any other tool. There is a learning curve. Most modelers prefer the paint they use because they are familiar with application methods and know how to get the look they want. "Better" is in the eye of the beholder(I told you to use safety glasses ). I use Tamiya, DuPont Lucite, HOK and Alsa paints. Not because they are better than others, but because I know how to get a great finish using them. They give me consistent results and that is what I need. Trying them should involve testing them with your methods. Switching paints frequently, is a recipe for problems.

[Scuderia]

In a related, but not-so related note; I've never used the Tamiya but I do enjoy Wet-look A LOT right now... What is the duplicolor some of you speak of?

[mikemodeler]

Harry,

The labeling issues mentioned in this topic are related to many chemicals, not just Tamiya. Many automotive chemicals require special labeling and some are made specifically for certain markets like California. It has to do with air and water pollution and as we all know, once it starts in California, it spreads to the rest of the country!

One of the latest things to hit the automotive market is removing copper from brake pads as the dust from them can pollute our water when the runoff from rain enters the ecosystem.

As to the "love" of TS-13, as others have mentioned if you master the application of it (and all Tamiya paints), then you can get some nice results. I have been using the Testors clear and am generally satisfied with the look, but will pick up a can of TS-13 soon and check it out as it has been at least 4 years since I last used it.

[Harry P.]

What is the duplicolor some of you speak of?

Duplicolor is automotive touch-up paint. Available in any auto parts store.

[moparfarmer]

I use Duplicolor acrylic enamel(smells and dries like lacquer) very good results..Can is $7.99 here in Canada at Canadian Tire/Parts Source stores..Get the can with the black label...Bigger can and lasts longer..No cracks etc after use(years)..Models look to have very deep finishes with it..Highly recommended...

[tim boyd]

I use Tamiya and Testors Wet and I like them both, but, Tamiya does have an edge over it. Tamiya has to be mastered a bit, but once you figure it out, it is well worth it.

As for the bubbling problem, the fix is to not press on the nozzle too long! Smooth and quick strokes are what is needed when applying Tamiya paints. Otherwise you will start loading up and getting sags, runs and bubbles. The paint is nice and thin and it comes out of the can rather quickly. If you can't handle that, then stick to the slower stuff.

One of the biggest reasons Tamiya paint keeps going away is due to the EPA. I don't know how many times they have to keep re-labeling their products to meet their ever changing policies.

I agree that the issue with bubbling can be correlated with putting on too much paint at once, but I think it also correlates with getting the sprayhead too close to the model (which may trap some of the aerosol propellant on the body surface before it has time to evaporate as it leaves the sprayhead. Between this and the tendency it has to attack the basecoat (causing it to pull away from seams, door lines, etc.), which yielded multiple messed up paint jobs for me that had to be subsequently "rescued", I finally migrated to the Testors Wet Look Clear. But if you can master the process to deliver consistent good results, TS-13 is the way to go.

TB

Edited July 2, 2014 by tim boyd

[Harry P.]

Are these two the same thing?