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Posted

I think the kit is detailed enough and tooling is in good shape that a new tool isn't needed. Kit is accurate and detailed and builds a decent replica. Easy enough to cut of the roof and do a convertible with the included boot. The interior is already the convertible version. Modelhaus offers all 6 turbo parts and the '66 Corsa convertible body/interior. A 1966 Monza can be built by using the kit body w/o the side marker lights, a modelhaus '66 interior with the kit dash. They also offer dash and transaxle parts to make a powerglide car. What would be great is either a pe set or Keith Mark's decal set to cover the emblems and scripts for all 1960 - 69 Monza, Spyder, and Corsa versions with Yenko and Sprint covered as well. The only missing resin conversions would be a 1966 Corsa HT, and all 1965 Monza and Corsa variants.

Posted

I think the kit is detailed enough and tooling is in good shape that a new tool isn't needed. Kit is accurate and detailed and builds a decent replica. Easy enough to cut of the roof and do a convertible with the included boot. The interior is already the convertible version. Modelhaus offers all 6 turbo parts and the '66 Corsa convertible body/interior. A 1966 Monza can be built by using the kit body w/o the side marker lights, a modelhaus '66 interior with the kit dash. They also offer dash and transaxle parts to make a powerglide car. What would be great is either a pe set or Keith Mark's decal set to cover the emblems and scripts for all 1960 - 69 Monza, Spyder, and Corsa versions with Yenko and Sprint covered as well. The only missing resin conversions would be a 1966 Corsa HT, and all 1965 Monza and Corsa variants.

A separate front suspension and separate door panels for the interior would make it a far better kit. Those are my biggest beefs with it.

Posted (edited)

I think the kit is detailed enough and tooling is in good shape that a new tool isn't needed. Kit is accurate and detailed and builds a decent replica. Easy enough to cut of the roof and do a convertible with the included boot. The interior is already the convertible version. Modelhaus offers all 6 turbo parts and the '66 Corsa convertible body/interior. A 1966 Monza can be built by using the kit body w/o the side marker lights, a modelhaus '66 interior with the kit dash. They also offer dash and transaxle parts to make a powerglide car. What would be great is either a pe set or Keith Mark's decal set to cover the emblems and scripts for all 1960 - 69 Monza, Spyder, and Corsa versions with Yenko and Sprint covered as well. The only missing resin conversions would be a 1966 Corsa HT, and all 1965 Monza and Corsa variants.

A Keith Marks decal set would be AWESOME for this kit.

Edited by 250 Testa Rossa
Posted

I just got the '69 Corvair today. I could tell by the bottom of the box; turbo kit is missing (last seen in the 1967 version).

The box is very nice. Except for included convertible boot, this kit is the same as all the issues from 1968 annual until now with side marker lights.

Posted

Well, aside from the funnycar version, you could build a "late" Corvair to replicate one with the "Kelmark" or "Crown" mid-engine V-8 conversion.

One of my 1:1 Corvairs had the Kelmark kit with bored-out Chevy 283 coupled with the original Corvair transaxle. The kit included a special adapter plate to mate the V-8 with the Vair transaxle.

I've seen a few models over the years where someone has stuck a V-8 in a Corvair, but I've never seen one where it's been a "proper" one with the Corvair transaxle. I have one in the works, but too many projects, too little time.

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Back when I was a kid a friend of my fathers built a V8'Vair with a 427 in the back, I built a model of it the best I could at that time. And yes, I used the "Vair tranaxle. I'm going to try another one now.

Posted

A separate front suspension and separate door panels for the interior would make it a far better kit. Those are my biggest beefs with it.

I was just looking at a complete Corvair front suspension in an old R&C magazine. I think if you really wanted to, you could convincingly fake it with parts (A-arms, shocks, springs) from a first-gen Camaro, such as the Revell '69. Just an idea for you. B)

Posted

I was just looking at a complete Corvair front suspension in an old R&C magazine. I think if you really wanted to, you could convincingly fake it with parts (A-arms, shocks, springs) from a first-gen Camaro, such as the Revell '69. Just an idea for you. B)

Pretty much what I have in mind.

Posted

A separate front suspension and separate door panels for the interior would make it a far better kit. Those are my biggest beefs with it.

I see the molded-in door panels as an advantage because I've had a hard time adding flocking to interiors without molded-in door panels.

Posted (edited)

I see the molded-in door panels as an advantage because I've had a hard time adding flocking to interiors without molded-in door panels.

What :blink: ?

I think it's almost impossible to do a clean flocking job if door panels are molded in. Even if I hide the door panels with masking tape when I spray some paint to the floor and add the flocking, once I take the tape off a lot of flocking will stick to the door panels and they are almost impossible to keep clean. Also foiling the chrome trim on molded in door panels is a real pain in the... Well you know where.

That's why I never use flocking if door panels are molded in. If they're not, I will. Of course if someone has good tips how to keep those door panels clean of flocking, I'd highly appreciate it.

Edited by W-409
Posted

I'll probably grab one to build a Modelhaus 4-door hardtop.

I saw these on the shelf last Friday at Hobby Emporium in Tyngsborough, Ma. while grabbing some train stuff.

Charlie Larkin

Posted

What :blink: ?

I think it's almost impossible to do a clean flocking job if door panels are molded in. Even if I hide the door panels with masking tape when I spray some paint to the floor and add the flocking, once I take the tape off a lot of flocking will stick to the door panels and they are almost impossible to keep clean. Also foiling the chrome trim on molded in door panels is a real pain in the... Well you know where.

That's why I never use flocking if door panels are molded in. If they're not, I will. Of course if someone has good tips how to keep those door panels clean of flocking, I'd highly appreciate it.

I use a paintbrush to apply paint and then quickly flock the interior.

Posted

that's what I was going to say: I think your problem might be the spray painting of the interior. I usually spray the whole thing the predominant color I am going to want it to be and then do the floor mats with flocking by brushing on either paint, or more usually, thinned down white glue, and then adding the flocking. it might still get a bit on the side panels due to my sloppy brushing "technique" but not much and that can be removed with a q tip pretty easy. I would agree though its a lot easier without the side panels molded on.

jb

Posted

I've tried with a paint brush, too. Anyway the door panels are full of flocking material before and after painting them. I've tried with and without masking tape... Maybe it's just me :lol: .

Posted (edited)

I wouldn't have any problem using some of the Modelhaus items available for this kit. They do offer an up top and Automatic transmission conversion.

Edited by 250 Testa Rossa

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