landman Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 They are "aluminum". Maybe paint them aluminum instead of BMF & rub off the black?
mustang1989 Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 That'd be the way I'd do it. That's a clean 1:1 ride you've got there from the looks of that interior Pat.
Tom Geiger Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Tom, will the BMF stretch down into each groove without tearing? Yes. Cut a piece large than you need and lay it flat across the area. Then start tamping it down from the center, pushing the BMF into the grooves, moving both to the top and bottom directions. That isn't that deep a groove, but as long as you hadn't pulled the BMF taut it should work. And the beauty of it is, if you screw up, just pull it off and do it again.
Tom Geiger Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Any preferred tamping tool Tom? Q-tip? That's a good choice. I generally start out with my finger, then a Q-tip or dull tooth pick depending on the surface and what nooks you need to get it into.
vamach1 Posted January 6, 2015 Posted January 6, 2015 Here is how I decided to handle the rear seat problem. I am making the seats from the 65 Revell/Monogram convertible fit in the 67 AMT kit. It is not a simple swap and required a lot of modification to get it to fit. While I was at it I've been tinkering with a 67 Coupe and a 67 Lil Shelby coupe.
microwheel Posted January 6, 2015 Posted January 6, 2015 Been following along with you Rex, your stang is really coming along. Looking forward to more.
landman Posted January 7, 2015 Author Posted January 7, 2015 67must 001 (2).jpg67must 002 (2).jpgHere is how I decided to handle the rear seat problem. I am making the seats from the 65 Revell/Monogram convertible fit in the 67 AMT kit. It is not a simple swap and required a lot of modification to get it to fit. While I was at it I've been tinkering with a 67 Coupe and a 67 Lil Shelby coupe. Nice stable.
landman Posted January 7, 2015 Author Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) Whew!!!!! That is hard work and I'm not so sure I like the results. But here goes anyway. Edited December 12, 2020 by landman
mustang1989 Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 You're right about that Pat. Those IP's are a tremendous amount of work if you want one to look even presentable and it looks like you've put that kind of work here. Looks great man.
landman Posted January 7, 2015 Author Posted January 7, 2015 I am almost ready to prime the body and I have a sequencing question. The engine compartment is black and the car is red. Which do I do first? I assime the black, then mask it. Easier to touch up right?I might also put some things like Mr.Obsessive put on his to hold the windows. I wonder if his were undercut?
landman Posted January 8, 2015 Author Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) Checked Bill's thread. He did undercut his window channels. Added the trim around the grille opening. Tried out Bill's method of holding "glass". 4 cardboard windshields later, I'm getting close. Edited December 12, 2020 by landman
landman Posted January 9, 2015 Author Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) A few more things done. Edited December 12, 2020 by landman
landman Posted January 10, 2015 Author Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) The rear seat in a convertible is narrower. I narrowed the resin coupe seat but it looks odd. I think I should have narrowed it in the inserts to keep the middle part wider. But that would have been beyond my skills. The fastback's seat fits but is obviously incorrect. I may have to talk to Vamach1 to see how he did his. I had forgotten the window cranks and ashtray covers so I cobbled some. They look awful in the photo but from a distance they don't look too bad.In 1;1 parlance a car with a so-so paintjob is called a 20 footer. Looks good from 20 feet. Anything closer the defects become visible. This model may well become a 15 incher. Edited December 12, 2020 by landman
landman Posted January 10, 2015 Author Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) That second photo should be this one. When I click edit. I get a flash of the posting then an empty box. I tried. Edited December 12, 2020 by landman
landman Posted January 13, 2015 Author Posted January 13, 2015 Took the Trans Am body I had primed the other day along with the airbrush, the can of paint that was in the trunk of the Mustang and set up un top of the router table. Hooked up the dust collector to it and went at it. This is my first use of the airbrush in at least 15 years other than trying it out the other day. I got this result, glossy orange peel along with a very unpleasant buzz. And that was with the dust collector sucking the overspray and wearing an organic vapors rated respirator. So that will definitely not be the paint I'll use. Rummaging session coming up.
landman Posted January 18, 2015 Author Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) Gave the car a good sanding, filled a few scratches. I'll give it another coat of primer. I've been told to use a darker one with the red. After several cardboard windshields that I couldn't get to fit, I gave up on the acetate idea and will use the one from the fastback kit. tried it in the resin body and it is good enough for me. Also, the boot came in from Modelhaus. Edited December 12, 2020 by landman
landman Posted January 18, 2015 Author Posted January 18, 2015 There are so many variables that can cause orange peel. But I would check your pressure(may be too high) or he paint is too thick. That's usually what it is for me.you may have a point there.It was thin enough for the gun but maybe not for the airbrush.
Maindrian Pace Posted January 18, 2015 Posted January 18, 2015 This is coming along well. I'd like to point out that a convertible has a different windshield frame than a coupe or fastback. It's covered completely with stainless trim, and doesn't have rain gutter or closed car trim detail. Some minor filling and sanding will sort it all out. -MJS
landman Posted January 18, 2015 Author Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) This is coming along well. I'd like to point out that a convertible has a different windshield frame than a coupe or fastback. It's covered completely with stainless trim, and doesn't have rain gutter or closed car trim detail. Some minor filling and sanding will sort it all out. -MJS Edited January 18, 2015 by landman
landman Posted January 18, 2015 Author Posted January 18, 2015 This quote thing is driving me nuts. Thanks Mike, I had forgotten about that.
mustang1989 Posted January 18, 2015 Posted January 18, 2015 I use extra kit parts all the time Pat and it looks like you made it work with the windshield here Pat. In fact I make it a common practice (after several experiences with hacking aircraft kits up to display the "guts" of the airframe) to buy an extra kit for just the reason you used for the w/s. Invariably I need a part on my modified kits and it's nice to have it already there. Lookin' good so far and hope you get your orange peel problem dealt with. I tend to agree with Ben on the paint thickness as I've had that bite me in the hiny a couple of times. lol
landman Posted January 18, 2015 Author Posted January 18, 2015 Joe, I found four reds in my stash, all of them pretty close. So I might practice on the Trans Am until I get it right and then have a go at it. I definitely won't be using the "real" car paint. Too dangerous without the proper equipment.
mustang1989 Posted January 18, 2015 Posted January 18, 2015 LOL! There's enough stuff in those paints to kill a good n' healthy guy over twice without the PPE!! lol
Bad Nickle Posted January 18, 2015 Posted January 18, 2015 You wouldn't happen to have the glass from that t/a would you. I bought one at a show with no glass!! Pm me if you do
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