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  2. 40 years huh? Glad to know I am not the only one. Mine was started when I was 12, now I am 53. Keeps getting stalled.
  3. 1970 Chaparral Camaro Trans-Am - I started this project a few years ago and after doing the initial work to convert the front end to full bumper configuration it got shelved. With the prospect of the release of a full bumper kit I figured I would wait until I could get one of those before resuming this project. I have recently learned the release of the new kit has been significantly delayed apparently due to some tooling issues. This project is the last one on my list of started but not completed builds and I needed something to work on so I am back at. Up front I managed to approximate the full bumper grill area by mounting the grill upside down. The small inner headlights were filled. The center section of the bumper started as 1970 Mustang piece. The parking light area under the bumpers were cut open and then filled. For the flared wheel-wells, I first cut of the stock lip. I then cut away the body to match the shape of the inner wheel-wells. To this I glued sheet styrene and then reattached the lip after which the whole area was puttied. The wheels and tires are from Replicas & Miniatures.
  4. Those colors go well together Tom.
  5. Correct grill? Isn't it too narrow? Designed to fit in the '73 Mustang grill opening, which in turn is set up to accommodate the large squarish headlamp bezels the '73 Mustangs had? It's those headlamp surrounds that bothered me the most in converting my AMT '71 Boss 351 into a '71 Mach I. As you can see, I painted the chrome headlamp bezels flat black, which helped. But, it's still not really right. For either a '71 Boss 351, or a '71 and '72 Mach I.
  6. Which takes us back to the Deora kit - later issues have those baby moon reversed wheels. Plus you get a nicely dressed-up Slant Six in the bargain.
  7. I hear you. The backgrounds depicted here so far are very nice, but as you say, not enough time in the day. It gives me heart palpitations to think that the weeks spent making a back drop could have been spent on working on one of my models. But hats off to the guys who will take the time. Steve
  8. The sticker on the box lid in the video says - New 4 Piece Body. One would hope that means NEW NEW, and not "New"ly reissued thing we tooled up previously.
  9. I am not waiting. The grill area was turned upside down, the small inner lights filled, the parking light area under the bumpers cut opened and filled, the center part of the bumper from a 70 Mustang. I am building the Chaparral Trans Am racecar.
  10. What a sweet little roadster !! Love everything about it especially that it's built from spare parts. 👍👍👍
  11. I completely agree the engine on of the 2013 kit is by far better.. Cost wise, what would it be for the complete package? What I would do is, not use the blower or the intake. (2013) I'd fill that with plastic, As on the 2014 kit, (top of the engine) and use the intake cover from the 2014 kit. What I want to accomplish is.... https://www.rkmotors.com/vehicles/2107/1967-ford-mustang-gt Hopefully, that all makes sense. Trevor
  12. Painting has resumed. I thought that I would try using a darker base of Duplicolor garnet red to see if it would darken the finish a bit. Doesn't appear to have done much, but that's okay. I was perfectly happy with the color anyway. So, a couple of quick coats of dark red, followed by a couple of Sunfire Red is where I stand until my next order of Scale Finishes paint arrives. A couple more light coats should do the trick. With any luck I can avoid the paint issues that arose last time. Steve
  13. I've added some additional signage since this pic was taken. The base is a display case so it has a clear plastic cover that fits over it to keep it nice and clean.... -RRR
  14. Thank you very much, Coming from you it means a lot! I've been following your D100 and I am just amazed at the quality and precision you are displaying in this project. The machining is great but it's your basic modeling skills that I find exceptional and together the results are spectacular.
  15. Looks good cleaned up, and I really like that red. Stylists seemed to be groping about quite a bit for 58 models by all the US car makers!
  16. Thanks for all the nice replies everyone! This technique is only really sensible when you’re trying to emulate light flames over a dark base, honestly...trying to cover black with light colors can easily result in a lot of paint build up that you have to then cover with a lot of clear to get level again, and obviously the more clear you add the more you’re hiding details and filling in panel gaps and so on. Doing it this way allows the absolute minimum number of layers - and, provided you can visualize how it’s MEANT to look at the end works ok I think! Definitely more thinking required than just masking the flames in a conventional way though... I design and cut the masks myself - I’m just using the basic Silhouette cutter and Oramask masking film which is pretty cheap and easy to get hold of. The same trick works for just drawing (or tracing) them out on some tape and cutting them by hand though, which is how I used to do it. Lazy Modeler sells some great looking masks on eBay - I actually started selling a range myself but there’s a lot of scammers on eBay and eBay is quick to refund everyone for every little problem so I’ve stopped doing that. I was getting, like, “paint bled under the mask when I used a spray can - I want a refund” and “I tore the mask putting it on the car, I want a refund” and “I ordered these and posted pictures of them on my Instagram but they never arrived so I want a refund”...so, yeah, leave that to Lazy Modeler 🙄😂. Just a cheap one from eBay, same as this; https://www.ebay.com/itm/164127624071 Ive never had a brand name one so I can’t compare, but these work ok for what I’m doing now just fine! Ditto my little $40 compressor - no fancy tools here, aside from the vinyl cutter that I like for masks. Createx is generally fine to airbrush right out of the bottle, but they sell a thinner that I’ll use occasionally too. Their paint is fairly thick out of the bottle but it lays down great, doesn’t seem to hide all the detail and doesn’t normally need more than a drop or two of thinner depending on how you like to paint. I’ve got pretty ok at spraying it right as it comes I think, but if you’re used to regular lacquers you’ll definitely notice the difference in how it flows. Main thing is, even painting it “wrong” and not thinning it so it’s watery like a lot of people seem to do it atomizes great and lays down fine for me!
  17. Today
  18. Amazing how much the red stripe adds to those wheels! Nice build.
  19. Thanks for your kind words Speez! Maybe I'll bring it to a model car show in the Montreal area (when this thing is over of course ...) then you would be able to see it in person if you participate in this type of event. Take care, Francis Not sure yet, dyno tests will be done later but maybe 25 times slower than its 1:1 counterpart... LOL! Take care, Francis
  20. The Boss 351 has a correct grill but the wrong bumper (73) and it did NOT have a Boss 351 engine of course. So a grille and some decals and that was about it. The 007 kit may or may not have the turn signals below the bumper - we shall see. Anyone know the release date?
  21. I agree on your points about the stance; you're almost there! Pretty attractive wheel choice, too. I remember fondly some of the 80s hot rod aesthetic, and a clean, monochromatic paint scheme on a shaved body can really make a statement. I would add that blacking out the remaining chrome trim was a popular "euro" look over here as well. By all means, smoke the the rear windows, and paint the engine block/heads the color of the car!
  22. I started by prepping all of the mold lines, applied a lacquer primer. Spazstix silver basecoat was then applied. I cut a piece of masking paper 1/8” smaller than the trunk decal, and used small loops of tape to stand off of the trunk for a soft edge. I applied the hood decal before the Kandy coat was applied. I used 4 coats of Kandy blue SpazStix On the entire body . After it cured I removed the paper and tape , then applied the trunk decal . I added the foil before sealing it all in with Nason 497-00 clear coat and a fast hardener. For the roof I used testors textured interior tan spray paint .
  23. The major surgery on the ramp bed is complete. If I use the kit fuel tanks, the bed would be that far back. I still have the exhaust stacks to go in the gap between the cab and the bed and figured I could fab a rack for a couple spares for the truck on the front wall of the ramp bed. Keep thinking it would look better with the bed closer to the cab.
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