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About StevenGuthmiller
- Birthday 11/27/1962
Previous Fields
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Are You Human?
yes
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Scale I Build
1/25th-1/24th
Contact Methods
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Website URL
http://stevenguthmiller@yahoo.com
Profile Information
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Full Name
Steven Wade Guthmiller
StevenGuthmiller's Achievements
MCM Ohana (6/6)
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Looking For A Special Glue
StevenGuthmiller replied to oldcarfan's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Generally yes. The particular epoxy that I use can sit for at least 5 minutes before it begins to tack up. Depending on the particular assembly that needs to be performed, I’ll either apply the glue and then immediately mate the parts if it’s a pretty secure connection, followed by a check after about 10 minutes to be certain that the positioning is correct, or else I’ll mix the glue, apply it to one of the surfaces to be mated, and then let it sit for 5 minutes or so, after which I’ll check for tackiness. If the glue is sufficiently tacky to hold the part securely in position without sliding around, then I’ll assemble the parts, and again, return probably ten minutes later to verify that it’s still in position. I’ll usually continue to make periodic positioning checks until the remaining glue on the mixing card is completely hardened, which probably takes about 15 or 20 minutes. Steve -
How do you prep your glue surfaces???
StevenGuthmiller replied to Vinny G's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
There is that. Most small exterior parts, (ie, door handles, mirrors, antennas, etc, and sometimes interior parts such as window cranks) get pinned.......although I don't deal much with metal for this, or any other purpose. I use primarily thin plastic rod, or stretched sprue for this purpose. But in any event, it not only helps in the strength department, but it makes the parts much easier to locate and glue into place, eliminating any problems with parts sliding around and smearing glue all over the place. Takes a little more time and forethought, but it makes for a cleaner model in the end. Steve -
How do you prep your glue surfaces???
StevenGuthmiller replied to Vinny G's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I agree. Since I’ve begun using the glues that I use, joint strength has never been a problem. As a matter of fact, my models generally get handled quite a bit initially, and often get dragged 300 miles or so, one way, multiple times during a season to a number of shows, and in all honesty, over the past ten years or so since I’ve begun going to shows, I’ve never once had a part fall off in transit. Apparently the paint and glue bond is pretty good to be able to withstand 600 miles of bouncing around on bad Minnesota roads, and that’s just one trip of several. Sometimes I think glue joint strength gets a little over emphasized. We build static models that aren’t supposed to get a lot of rough handling anyway, so how strong does it need to be? Steve -
How do you prep your glue surfaces???
StevenGuthmiller replied to Vinny G's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I don’t scrape anything. Haven’t for probably 40 years. I use MEK glue for bare plastic prior to paint, and 2-part epoxy for virtually all assembly processes, and have no issues. Steve -
MCW *Enamel* Paints
StevenGuthmiller replied to 1972coronet's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
All that I can talk you is that I thinned a custom mix of MCW enamels to do the interior in my ‘64 Bonneville with plain old lacquer thinner, and it worked just fine. I had a little left over, but I haven’t checked to see what kind of shape it’s in now. Enamels can be really quirky once thinned, and will some times gel up depending on the thinning medium. Steve -
What exactly is lacquer paint?
StevenGuthmiller replied to D.Pack's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Good grief! This is exactly what we need. More confusion on this subject! Everyone has their own definitions of what this is, and what that is, and then we get the official versions from the paint wonks and industry experts with all of the technical, chemical mumbo-jumbo. and our eyes begin to glaze over! For our purposes, at least for mine, it's pretty simple. If it says "Enamel" on the can or bottle, it's going to dry slow, go on thicker, dry harder, dry shinier, and can only be over coated with enamel or acrylic as a rule. If it says "Lacquer", it dries extremely fast, is able to be built up in multiple layers, in most cases will dry duller, but will be able to be sprayed over with virtually any other type of paint. Acrylic seems to be the sticking point because everyone in the business apparently likes that word, and uses it freely on pretty much everything. If you're using acrylic, you're just going to have to get down in the gutter with the paint wonks if you want to know exactly what properties each acrylic has, because it can be almost anything. Steve -
If I could make one suggestion Anders? A wash of some sort on the wire wheels would add another level of realism. Steve
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Absolutely gorgeous! Beautiful example of the “first” American muscle car! Steve
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What Did You Have for Dinner?
StevenGuthmiller replied to StevenGuthmiller's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
Pretty sure that you can find the Boetje's in most grocery stores. If I can find it in Fargo North Dakota, you can find it anywhere! I like it because it's a little "sweeter" than a lot of mustards. By that I mean the vinegar level seems to be lower so that the mustard flavor seems more pronounced. It's also got a lot of heat, so you have to go light.....unless you need to really clean out the sinuses! Steve -
Yup. Not hard to make a windshield for a Mopar '68-'70 B-body. Back glass is a little tougher, but also possible if you're patient. Steve
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What Did You Have for Dinner?
StevenGuthmiller replied to StevenGuthmiller's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
Did you forget the Boetje's mustard? I love this stuff!!! Steve -
440 Engine question?
StevenGuthmiller replied to slusher's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
One thing that I’ve always hated was the propensity for many people to replace original interiors with generic looking tan leather throughout. In my opinion, one of the most endearing and coolest aspects of most old cars is the character of the interior treatments. Replacing a vibrant ‘55 Chevy interior with it’s wide variety of colors, textures and materials with a drab, monochrome, tan leather interior is a sin as far as I’m concerned. For as much time as most guys spend in the driver’s seat of their classic car, it can’t possibly be that detrimental to their delicate behinds to have to sit on vinyl for a little while. As far as having to let my Grand Prix warm up for a little while, I’m fine with it. I’m in no hurry whatsoever when I’m taking it out for a drive. Steve -
Repainting question
StevenGuthmiller replied to JerseeJerry55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
As long as you’re not concerned about detail hide, there’s no reason that you can’t spray over it, especially with enamel. But yes, I would re-prime just for the sake of even color coverage. Steve -
Repainting question
StevenGuthmiller replied to JerseeJerry55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Did you prime it before paint? And if so, what primer did you use? Steve