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fseva

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Everything posted by fseva

  1. I have a project of which 2 of the tires were pretty banged up right inside the box. I started by sanding them using 600 grit, and then didn't like the really flat look they left me with. So, I tried Future, and it worked pretty good - just restored enough shine and seemed to eliminate the "fuzzies"...
  2. I don't remember seeing any bluish cast to the stainless steel Metalizer; so, you should be OK. Of course, if you chose polished aluminum, every one I've tried has never looked anything but silver, and would also not give you a problem with a transparent yellow over it.
  3. Well, here's something to could happen... some stainless steels have a significant quantity of blue in them... combine that with yellow and you get green.
  4. Is that BMF on the rear windshield surround? If it is, that's quite a nice gold for foil - I don't think it ever looked that good in ads for the product!
  5. Here's the photo from the Alclad website... looks more like silver than gold to me...
  6. OK - please let me know how it works out for you! Thanks again!
  7. fseva

    Chevy Nomad -55

    Your car is very pretty, but you probably shouldn't have used braided line for your radiator hoses.
  8. I don't believe Gold Titanium is a solid gold color... if you look at titanium by any mfr, it looks more like silver, and mixing it with gold would surely diminish the gold component. I have had excellent results with Testors Inca Gold and Pure Gold (needs to be built up more than the first).
  9. Steve - thanks for the warning! I'll keep using my rattle cans of One-Coat clear for now...
  10. 1. You're just giving the body some "tooth", so I generally don't use anything but 600. 2. 1 coat of primer is sufficient - just make sure the primer is consistently applied and opaque. 3. I do not sand between paint layers. 4. I do not sand between clear coats. 5. The product is best referred to as "compound", at least when it comes to Tamiya's polishing creams. 6. You're going to achieve an excellent finish, but you have a lot of work and time put into the project. You may find that you can scale back your expectations and still achieve a wonderful, shiny finish!
  11. Yes, that's the one, and I was thinking about how long 32oz would last me! Steve, did you have to thin it for use with an airbrush?
  12. Try NailFiles.com... They are a wholesale manufacturer, and I especially like their Sterifiles which also come tapered with 2 grits per file Sterifiles Tapered. The most useful for me are the 100/180 and the 180/240. You can also get generic files 240/400 and 180/320 Mylar. The tapered files are useful because the end that is narrow is easier to get into cramped spaces. The dual grits allow you to have one side for rough sanding and the other for putting a polish back on the spot.
  13. This is available from Amazon in a quart can for app $23. Has anyone used this? I tried Dupli-Color clear in the blue rattle can over a Scale Finishes metallic acrylic enamel, and it went on beautifully! So, I'm wondering if the quart can would be a good deal (it would save me having to decant a spray can)...
  14. I don't have a link to a tutorial, but I will give you my procedure and you can decide for yourself if it is sufficient for you: Prime: Tamiya or Testors gray or white depending on color choice - bright/light colors use white; all else use gray Color coat: Tamiya or Testors lacquers (One-Coat and Auto System), both of which are available in rattle cans and can be sprayed direct from the can, with care, or decant and use an airbrush. Finish: Testors One-Coat Clear Wet Look Polish: Tamiya 3-Step Compounds - not all 3 are always necessary - for example, if your Finish coat is nice and shiny, you could just use #1 Finish, or #2 Fine. I use a Shop Towel (paper) to apply and rub out. Hope this helps!
  15. I was getting Error 404 when I was attempting to link a new build in "Under Glass" with my Photobucket account. However, I just tried a test entry and it's working fine again. WRONGO! Unfortunately, when I attempted to edit the post that I wanted to change over to Photobucket, when I got all done with the edit and all the photos were now linked to Photobucket, upon attempting to save, I got the dreaded Error 404 again! And now my post won't accept ANY changes - everything I try results in an error, and my post is photoless... bummer...
  16. Don't bother with Iwata - the largest needle/nozzle they currently have installed in their cheaper airbrushes is .5mm. You can get a Badger Anthem with a .75mm installed, or a Patriot and a .75mm accessory needle/nozzle, and you'll be all set for spraying acrylics. The smaller the n/n, the more pressure or the thinner acrylics have to be to get proper atomization.
  17. One extra tip - if you'd prefer not to get compound in your panel lines, place a small amount on your polishing rag/towel and spread it out so that there are no big globs. Then, polish away... any compound that gets into the panel lines will be minimal.
  18. I bought some of these and they weren't that great... they throw strands of fabric all over the place, as if they aren't glued well enough to the core!
  19. Wouldn't it be wonderful if they decided to do a modern tooling of it?!
  20. While "white glue" will dry clear, you can still see it if it oozed out behind your clear windshield. For this reason, I use Micromark's PSA. Just wait until it's dry and the oozing problem is minimized before installing that clear windshield. You can always follow up with a stronger glue later, because PSA will loosen up under tension.
  21. I use Model Master glue with the metal needle... The other day, I needed to remove the paint from the area where a headlight bucket was going to be installed. I had the chrome removed, and I wanted to remove the paint where it would be installed. So, I put a little glue on a q-tip and used it as a "remover".
  22. Or, simply remove the glue with some glue on a q-tip!
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