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ShakyCraftsman

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Everything posted by ShakyCraftsman

  1. Hey Bren As I said in my previous posts I got them from Micromark. They are the same hinges that Redneckrigger used on his link belt crane build. He listed the number in his post, mine didn't have a number on them. They are doll house hinges. Ron G
  2. If you are talking about the fittings they are these. They are from CTM (Czech Truck Models) I got them from Paul at ST Supply. If you were talking about the hinges they are from Micromark. I don't have a number, they didn't have one. They are the ones redneckrigger used on his link belt crane build. He listed the number. Check his post for number. Ron G
  3. Hey all Got some more work done on this build. Started the front steering system plumbing. This view shows the floor that I added to the kit interior bucket. This view shows what the floor looks like on the truck. This view shows the parts I'm using to plumb the front steering mechanism. They are from CTM. This view shows the steering box control valves that I added. This view shows the different front wheel centers I'm thinking about using. I'm going with the oil center cap, on the right. This view shows the rear wheel center caps I'm going to use. This is the winch headache rack I'm going to be using. This view shows the headache rack. It's from 3D Concepts. This view shows the two tan hydraulic fittings I added to the front hydraulic steering assist cylinder. Also the bolt heads I added to the front steering mechanism. This view shows the hydraulic fittings I added to the hydraulic pump. This view shows the plumbing on the front steering system. I can't add more till the truck is further along. This view shows the radiator to cab bracing rods. This view shows the hood in place and open on the truck. Well that's it for now I'll be back soon with more updates. Ron G
  4. Hello all I'm trying to find one, possibly two of P&P resin works 1/25 scale Cummins KTA 600 engines. Does anyone know if Eric is still selling these? I tried to email him but it wouldn't go through. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Ron G
  5. Hey Tom I know exactly what you mean. No matter how good I do something it just doesn't meet my vision, to much of a perfectionist I guess.😆 It can be a curse, but also a good thing, because it makes us better modelers. Keep up the outstanding work you are doing I definitely want to see this done. Ron G
  6. Yeah, I tought it was a little big, but it looks okay on your build, doesn't stand out. If you look at my Autocar build I used the little hinges (forgot what #) to make a long piano hinge for my hoods center hinge. I then used two on each side for the side hinges, worked out perfectly. All this was inspired by you and your build. Thanks Ron G
  7. This is absolutely astounding! When you are done with this it should be in a museum for everyone to look at. Fantastic work on this, and thanks for the hinge information, it came in very handy on my Autocar build. Ron G
  8. Hey all Well let's try this again. I added the side pieces to the hood. As I tried to say in my previous post this was inspired by redneckriggers link belt crane build. This view shows the hood closed. This view shows the hoods left side open. This view shows the hoods right side open. We'll that's it for now be back soon with more Ron G
  9. Hello Why can't I edit my posts? It's in the large truck WIP section. It ket me load the pictures, then when I went to added text (edit) It said I could no longer edit it. Said it might have been moved or timed out. Why is this happening. If this keeps up your going to loose people. Respectfully Ronald G Gardner
  10. Hey all This forum won't let me edit my post.🤬😡 Sorry everyone,I tried to add to my post but it won't let me.🤨 Ron G
  11. Hey all Okay, this update is on Redneckrigger. He inspired me to attempt this. I am going to make the hood on the Autocar work! That's right a fully working hood. So let's get i to this. This view shows the little hinges
  12. Hey Brenton I meant the Revell spray chrome, not the kit chrome. Ron G
  13. Hey all Got some more work done on this build. Here are some pictures for yous all to look at. This view shows the Italeri rear backing plates I added to the front axle. They will represent the brake drums. It's all you can see when the wheels are attached. This view shows the kits axle pin retainers This view shows them mounted to the axle. This will allow the W/T's to rotate. This view shows the front axle looking down on it. This view shows the new front floats that I'm going to use. They are Bridgestones from Paul at ST Supply. This view shows them temperaly in place on the front axle. This is a mock-up picture of the truck. Another mock-up view with the engine, cab & tank. Bottom view of the front axle and the Italeri front shocks I added. (Black items) This view shows the front steering mechanism added. I've done this so it looks like it's attached to the front axle, but it's not, this way the steering still works. You can see the front shocks I added in this picture also. Top down picture of the frame and the rear brake chambers that I added. They are the ones from Paul at ST Supply. (Revell level 5 copys) This view shows the brake chambers I added better. Well that's it for now be back soon with more updates. Ron G
  14. Hey Brenton Glad you want to get an airbrush, but that Revell chrome looks just as good or better then Alclad. And it's way easier to do with out screwing it up. Alclad takes alot of practice to get right, just saying. Ron G
  15. Hey Brenton If you want to chrome something and you don't have an airbrush you can use Revell spray chrome in a can. I know it's kinda pricey at $39.00 + a can, but the results are as close as you are going to get with out an airbrush. Ron G
  16. English Imperial all the same. Potato patato. Depends on what country, county, city you are from. No problems only part. Ron G
  17. Hey Gary Yes, those are the kit axles (rear) I added the bolt heads to them. Front axle is a CTM axle. Ron G
  18. Hey everyone Got some more work done on this Autocar DK-64B tractor. The rolling chassis is about 80% done. I have the frame and suspension finished all I have to do is add the battery box, fuel tanks, etc. I added bolt heads to the bell housing. I still need to make a top cover with bolt heads and shifter tower. Another view of the bell housing bolt heads. I added bolt heads to the rear axle housings. I also added some more bolt heads to the rest of the rear ends. I also added the two thin pieces on each side to the axle housing that trap the rear springs. These were missing from the kit. This view shows the rear ends together with the rear springs and drive shaft. Drivers side air tank installed. This view shows the air tank fittings. This is how I'm going to plumb the tanks. Another view of the right and left air tanks. I added some Tichy bolts to the front springs. Another view of the front springs. This view shows the fifth wheel set up I'm going to use for this build. This view shows the peices to the fifth wheel. I bought this for my Mack build. It says it's a dropped axle but it was a regular straight axle. So I'm going to use it for this build. View looking down on the front axle. This view shows the front axle turned to the left. This view shows the front axle in place on the front springs and frame. This view shows the rolling chassis temporarily together. This is a little mock-up of what the finished truck will look like. Well that's it for today be back soon with more. Ron G
  19. Yeah, I did it in English units because most of the tires were in English. So for those that don't know if you have English dimensions multiply by 25.4 and you get metric dimensions. And with Metric dimensions divide by 25.4 to get English dimensions. I did this all day long when I was doing auto engineering, 40 years ago. Ron G
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