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Bernard Kron

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Everything posted by Bernard Kron

  1. This summer I got the Modelist Russian repack of the Academy Ferrari 250 LM kit off of eBay. It was well priced but actually came from Russia and so it took 6-7 weeks to get to me. According to the seller, due to Covid, there are currently no direct cargo flights between Russia and the USA. Things must be shipped via western Europe and , for ordinary parcel post, it has added a solid 4 weeks or more to shipping time. It’s a simple kit, a curbside with a well detailed interior and a nicely molded body. It comes with surprisingly convincing molded plastic wire wheels but the cover illustration on the Modelist release is of what appears to be a modern street version of a 250LM with contemporary rear view mirrors and the Drogo “long nose” conversion with the simpler, wider grill opening rather than the more blunt stock short nose with the brake cooling slots on either side of the more squared off grill opening found in the actual kit. The cover car also has silver “Cromodora” Campagnolo cast magnesium wheels. I liked the look of this combo but eventually decided against the considerable work involved in re-profiling and extending the Drogo nose. The modern rear view mirrors don’t float my boat either. But the solid stance and look of the mag wheels appealed to me, especially when I was able to find some reasonably priced and beautifully cast resin aftermarket 1/24th scale resin Ferrari P4 wheels and tires from eBay vendor jwhi7752. They come from the UK under the name Curbside MasterCasterS and, as I say, they are absolutely first rate. Communication was excellent and shipping time very fast so he is highly recommended. He masters and casts his own stuff and has quite a variety of cool automotive items. His eBay UK page has his completion line whereas, since he must pay a pre-item premium for his USA listing he lists fewer items there. Here’s a link to his UK page: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/jwhi7752/m.html?item=143706523517&hash=item217593877d%3Ag%3Ao64AAOSw9SVeIv7A&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 As an historical note, there were several 250 LMs run with the Campagnolo mags, their owners finding that the stiffer wheels improved the handling, especially as racing tires were rapidly getting wider and lower in profile at the time (1963-1965). So my indulgence in them isn’t totally off base. Below is a summary of the initial work I’ve done. As you can imagine the P4 wheels and tires are a bit oversized for the 250LM body so it took some minor fettling to get them to sit nicely under the fenders, especially since I decided to lower the stance about 2 scale inches. I also chose to finish the wheels in the traditional gold “Cromodora” finish as seen on the p3s and P4s/ It should go nicely with the Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red main body color. In the original kit the grill and vent openings are all molded shut with plastic “grills” filling them. These have all been opened up and will have 60-mesh grills inserted. Other than the Campag wheels the car will be largely stock so this project will be mainly about fit and finish. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  2. Apologies for taking so long to reply! Thanks to you both. The delicate nature of the bare aluminum paint effect eventually necessitated a more "as raced" look to the project than I had initially intended, but I like the overall effect. I'm glad you dig it! B.
  3. Lotus Super Seven Series 2 Club Racer This is a Lotus Super 7 with, in terms of Lotus subculture, “all the right stuff”. It’s based on the 1/24th scale Tamiya kit built pretty much straight out of the box with the exception of the Lotus “wobbly” magnesium wheels. Along with the bare metal aluminum body panels and the kit-supplied Cosworth-Ford motor with twin Webers, the wobblies complete the list of high-status details. Of course the fact that it’s a pukka Lotus S2 as opposed to a mere Caterham replica will get you respect on both track days and at the Concourse. The wobblies were cast by Dave Bantoft, a very fine modeler in Australia, who generously supplied me with them. Thanks Dave! The bare metal finish was achieved with a combination of Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome and Kosutte Ginsan metalizing powder. The fiberglas body parts and the roll over bar are finished in Tamiya TS-43 Racing Green. In keeping with the club racer theme I deleted the rear spare tire. The interior surfaces are finished in Testors Acryl Signal Red. Chrome bits were picked out in Molotow Chrome paint. This was my first Tamiya kit and the precision fit and detail accuracy made the experience a genuine pleasure. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  4. Thanks guys! This project is now completed. Since this is a straightforward kit build there’s not much to comment on other than the fact that this is my first Tamiya kit and the fit and precision of the parts was a genuine pleasure, even if some of the subassemblies and detail parts were mighty small and fiddly. Tweezers are definitely in order! I think the accuracy and realism comes through in the final result. Below are a couple of photos. More “beauty shots” will be included tomorrow when I post this under Completed models. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  5. Thanks everyone! Danno, Holy Resurrected Thread, indeed. I was glad you dug it then, and glad you dig it now, LOL. But "Long Lost"? I've been here all along, posting away, building 6-8 models a year, I think...
  6. I figured it was time for an update before this project is completely forgotten. It’s actually quite far along with all the subassemblies painted but this update will only show the bare metal aluminum surfaces painted, the completed wheels and tires, the completed nose piece, and the completed motor. The suspension is done and installed but not very visible in the photo below. The interior bits are all done and will go in next, along with the completion of the under-hood area. Then the windscreens, lights and final assembly. The next update should be the final one showing the completed details. The whole thing looks pretty ragged right now as I’m peeling back the masking only to the limit required for the assembly process. So far I’ve managed to keep the bare aluminum surfaces relatively unmolested, and the Tamiya masking tape has pulled up without lifting any paint. Thanks for lookin, B.
  7. Sharp! As the saying goes, "It does the business"... One detail that caught my eye is the hood sides with the raised louver panel. They look great in keeping with older-style the '30 Coupe body. Source?
  8. Yes. I tested the tape (Tamiya) on part of the painted fender. Of course you're right in referring to the fact that the tape will be on there a while. But I've done this before with minimum problems as long as the paint is well cured and the model isn't subjected to undue heat.
  9. Thanks everyone! This is turning out to be a highly technical project. The idea of doing a polished aluminum body dictates a really strategic approach to masking. I didn’t mention it in my first post but this is actually my second try at painting the body. The first time around I wasn’t careful about handling the outer body surfaces. The Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome wasn’t fully cured and I landed up wearing it away. So the body went into the purple pond and this time I am planning carefully exactly when I pant each area of the body. The fenders and nose have been painted with Tamiya TS-43 Racing Green Spray. The body is “zoned” into 4 distinct areas with separate masking for each – the fiberglass parts (nose and fenders), the “upholstered” interior surfaces (painted with Testors Acryl Insignia Red), the unpolished bare aluminum surfaces (interior, engine compartment and underpan), and the polished aluminum surfaces. In the composite photo below you can see that I’ve painted the fenders. The second panel shows the fully masked main body. The interior surfaces are left in bare styrene, as is the underside. These will be sprayed in Testors Buffable Aluminum Plate. After several days of cure time I’ll buff the surfaces. The outer body surfaces (under the fenders up to the nose, between the fenders and the rear fuel tank area) will get shot with mirror chrome immediately before final assembly. If possible I’ll attach detail parts that lend themselves to masking before shooting the polished aluminum areas. My hope is to minimize handling and to be disciplined enough to only grip the model by the fenders, which will still be masked. The fenders will only be un-masked after final assembly. In the composite photo you’ll also see the “wobblies” finished in Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow. Highlighting them in paint revealed that I need to do more work truing up the rim edges. A nose stripe was also applied in Camel Yellow. After the paint cures I’ll polish out the edge between the two colors. While the paint hardens I’ll work on the motor, drive train and suspension which will be the subject of the next update. Thanx for lookin’. B.
  10. Thanks again guys. It did its job as a slump buster both because I managed to keep it simple and because it actually came out like I intended, LOL.
  11. Beautifully executed. The strategic weathering makes it look astonishingly real despite it's small scale.
  12. I like this. A straight-up no nonsense drag machine which takes full advantage of what I'm beginning to think is a vastly underrated kit from Revell. Very fine modeling, indeed.
  13. Thanks to you all. I'm pleased the period look came across. The "slightly weathered" look was the result of applying a small amount of black wash to the .hood louvers and side vents so they would show up. I suppose the wash reside complements the dull paint finish to give it the "daily driver" vibe. I'm glad you all dig it! Thanx!
  14. I will never forget seeing your work when you, Bob Downie and several other of your mates from the Grand Prix Modelers Association came and visited us at the NNL West in 2016. All the models you all presented were exceptional in both significance of subject matter and execution, Your models in particular, from the Miller Golden Submarine through your stunning streamline masterpieces (the Figoni et Falaschi Talbot Lago and the Saoutchik Bugatti), have stayed with me both because of their significance as automobiles and their uniqueness in 1/24th scale. At the time I believe you were just getting started in 3D modeling and most of your models had been created largely by sculpting their bodies or the molds to make them. Now 3D gives you the tools to model these important cars in full detail (ir you choose) with accurately rendered hollow bodies. But the skill to "see" the body in 3 dimensions has always been your gift, along with knowing whic the important cars to model. This lovely OSCA is no exception!
  15. This is the 1/24th scale Tamiya kit. Believe it or not, it's my first Tamiya and I'm enjoying the detail. crispness and precision. My plan is to build the club racer version with the ero screens. I'm in the "proof of concept" phase right now, where I tackle the changes and difficult bits to make sure the idea I have will work. I'm going to try to duplicate the polished aluminum that was a popular treatment among owners of these early lotuses. I'm using Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome shot to bare polished styrene. I did the bonnet, cowl and transmission and they came out really nicely so now it's time to tackle the masking job to accomodate the painted fenders and nose. Dave Bantoft (Dave B here on MCM) in Australia had let me now a while back that he had resin copies of the classic Lotus "Wobbly" cast aluminum wheels that Colin Chapman first introduced with the front engine Lotus 12 Formula 2 car in late 1956. "Wobblies" are another popular early-lotus appearance item, usually finished in their characteristic yellow color. Dave was kind enough to send me a set. Dave's resin castings included tires molded to the rims and solid backs. The wheels are just the right size but the tires were a little small. With the fact that they had full wheel backs with no room for the kit brakes it was simplest, if a little risky, to remove the tires and then sand the faces down to fit the kit tires. Here's a post-thrash bench photo of the result. I'm using AMT inner wheel rims. Once they're in the prerequisite yellow they should look mighty fine. You can also see the beginnings of masking job. This is a brave new world for this confirmed rod and custom modeler, although this particular car has much in common with a hot rod. Wish me luck! Thanx for lookin', B.
  16. 50’s style ’37 Ford Slantback Street Rod The ’37 Ford truly is the quintessential Billet Era street rod. Even today, if you go to local rod shows there’s a good chance you’ll see ’37 Ford Slantback Tudor that’s a throwback to the height of the Billet Rod craze of the 80’s and 90’s. Oh, the owner may have changed out the rolling to more traditional steelies and wide whites. If the owner is serious about “updating” it to today’s traditional style it might have been repainted in red or black. And maybe the small block mill has even been converted to triple Strombergs. But a peak at the interior will give away its roots because all that milled aluminum and tweed is just too costly to replace. In 1987 Monogram celebrated this period icon with its 1/4th scale ’37 Ford Sedan Street Rod kit. It’s Billet Era through and through with Boyd style billet wheels, Mustang IFS clip, Corvette IRS, and a 4-barrel SBC with an automatic tranny and billet accessories. It’s a well-engineered kit with finely detailed parts, and a nicely rendered body. It goes together well and rewards the builder with a classic 90’s street rod. I was looking through my stash for a slump buster and realized that I had avoided this kit for more than a decade. You see, Billet is just not my thing. Period correct 50’s is more what gloats my boat. Looking at it yet again, I realized that with just some detail changes it could be made to represent the typical mild street hot rod that used to grace the Little Pages back in the day. It’s a solid kit that would provide just the sort of simple project I was looking for if I stuck closely to the concept of back-dating it. So what you see here is a pretty simple project. The suspension and rolling stock were lifted directly from a 10 year old stillborn AMT/Revell ’40 Ford Tudor hybrid I never finished. The front and rear axles and rear suspension have been swapped out for bits from a Revell ’40 Ford Coupe street rod, the wide white tires are Modelhaus 120A’s mounted on AMT steelies and covered with Moon Discs from Parts by Parks. The only non-kit parts are the ,’58 ‘Vette style dual 4-barrel intake on the kit small block. They’re from a Revell Chevy 283 Parts Pak, and despite the scale mismatch they fit perfectly. Oh yeah, and the taillights are AMT ’36 Ford bits. Otherwise it’s straight out of the box. I ditched the kit headrests on the seats, deleted the stereo speakers on the package shelf and just made sure the colors were right for the 50’s machine I was modeling. The paint is Tamiya AS-5 Light Blue Luftwaffe, a matte military color that is meant to represent the tinted primer paint jobs that graced many a budget-conscious street machine in the 50’s I neglected to photograph the assembled interior, at least partially because of the way it goes together in this kit, so I’ve include a summary picture of the motor and the interior parts along with a side view showing the slightly raked stance that the deep-drop Revell beam axle gives the car. I added a ’40 Ford steering wheel and column during final assembly. The project had the desired effect. A simple build with a minimum of fabrication and parts swapping that takes advantage of a well-conceived classic kit, even if it isn’t one that would normally appeal to me. Thanks for lookin’, B.
  17. Thanks guys! This the final update. The project is essentially done although I still have to glue the chassis to the body. Below is a final summary showing the stance, the Moon discs from Parts By Parks, and all the detail that was added, either by foiling from the kit parts. The engine bay is complete and trimmed in white to contrast with the exterior paint. The tail lights are from an AMT ’36 Ford kit. Pretty much your classic late 50’s hop-up from just after the Chevy small block swept the Ford flathead from the scene. I’ll take final “beauty shots” and post the complete model tomorrow. Thanx to all who followed along, B.
  18. Thanks everyone. I'm glad you all are enjoying this. This is really a minor update since the basic de-Billet-ing of the chassis was done on my previous post. This is the assembly of the motor and chassis. The motor is the kit Small Block Chevy with a simple back-dating of the carburetion to the Corvette 283 dual 4-barrel, a dealership parts counter hop up popular in the early years of the SBC. Manifold, carbs and air cleaners are all from a Revell Parts Pack 283. The pre-wired distributor is from Morgan Automotive Detail. The kit exhaust system was re-routed slightly to fit the reworked rear suspension. The rear suspension locating arms are from the Revell ’40 Ford street rod kit that contributed the rear suspension and axle. I’m actually further along than the picture below would indicate. I’m ready for final assembly with the window and hood side trim foiled, the interior done, etc. I’ve always liked how these pre-Revell Monogram kits are designed. They’re engineered for straightforward no-dramas assembly with lots of nice detail. This one is no exception. My next update will be final one before I post the completed project. Thanks for lookin’, B.
  19. Thanks Elvin. Glad you dig it. There's nothing more classic than a '29 A-Roadster on Deuce rails!
  20. Thanks Randy. In my experience the channeled frame is the more difficult of the two to get dialed in to a decent stance. I swear it sits even higher than the Deuce railed highboy piece. At the very least it's the same height but with the narrower A-bone rails it only emphasizes the mile-high stance even more. When I did the channeled version I landed up increasing the drop on the rear "z" as well as doing the both the front and rear end mods you see on this one.
  21. Thanks Gary and Mark! I'm glad you both like it. I must admit it's one of the more personally satisfying of my completions of late.
  22. I've always been a fan of your miles-deep paint work and impeccable execution. This is without a doubt the best interpretation of the Foose Caddy I've yet to see. It gives it a richness and elegance missing from most versions out there. Bravo!
  23. Thanks! Looks like a good source for hot rod and American car stuff. I notice he pressure casts, usually a good sign of quality.
  24. Builder’s block. I’m sure it happens to all of us; some, of course, more severe than others. In my case I like to be working on a model car project pretty much throughout the year with little interruption. Some projects take longer than others but I generally have something going. But since May 21st I’ve been pretty much dead in the water. This is not unknown to me, but it’s quite rare. I started a couple of things which turned out to be more like paint experiments than actual modeling projects. Then about five days ago I finally got past it. I decided I would do a simple build to get things moving and then tackle something more adventurous next. This is the simple one, a Monogram ’37 Ford Sedan street rod. First released in 1987 it’s a real period piece – a classic billet rod with independent suspension front and rear and Boyd-style billet wheels and billet details under the hood and all over the interior. With the Traditional Rod revival of the past several years building this slantback out-of-the-box would be a real throwback – and frankly not to my taste. For this reason this kit sat in my stash for many years. A strange choice to cure a case of builder’s block… Regardless, I started in on it less than a week ago. One thing about this early release version is that it’s molded in genuine Monogram Bleed-Through Orange Plastic. So the first order of business was to get that stuff sealed off. I thought some Duplicolor Primer Sealer would do the trick (it usually does) but this plastic dye is so strong it went right through it. After a session in the Purple Pond I used my old reliable combo: generic Duplicolor Metallic Silver Acrylic Lacquer over the aforementioned primer sealer (the cheap stuff in the tall can – but it sets up and lays down beautifully). Mission accomplished. I’m going for a real late 50’s street machine kind of look. So the color I’ve chosen is actually Tamiya AS-5 Light Blue Luftwaffe, a military color of all things. But it gives the car a tough, utilitarian performance look, particularly with the Modelhaus T-120 wide whites I’m using. The sub-text of this project is to use as many surplus bits from my stash as are appropriate to the final result. The kit itself fits that description, as it’s unlikely I’ll build another one. The red-painted steelie wheels and T-120 tires are .from a still-born Revell/AMT ’40 Ford Sedan hybrid I started at least 10 years ago. The rolling stock was glued to Revell ’40 Ford Street Rod front and rear axles and it’s doubtful I could ever remove them without destroying the axles. So the whole wheel/axle set was adapted to the Monogram chassis. This has gotten rid of the billet-era independent suspension, as well as lowering the stance a bit. The interior is kit stock except for deleting the headrests and the stereo speakers on the package shelf. I’ll replace the billet era steering wheel with something 50’s-appropriate. In keeping with the WWII German paint theme (unconscious, I assure you) the main interior color is Testors Acryl Panzer Interior Beige with Folk Art craft paint Teddy Bear Tan accents, The trim details will get picked out in Molotow Chrome, Other than the suspension and wheels and tires, most of the build will come from the Monogram kit, modified as needed to de-billet-ate it. Below are some pictures of the work so far, showing the original Bleed-Through Orange styrene, the suspension work, the interior bits, wheels and tires (the wheels will get Moon caps) and chassis and the overall look in the light blue. The dull semi-gloss patina of the military paint makes it look like it’s in tinted primer, a popular look in the 50’s. It’s likely I’ll keep it but I might go with a clear gloss. I might even give it a pearlescent finish. I’m doing some paint trials to determine what I choose. But other than the lowered stance, the rolled pans and deleted bumpers, and the Moon caps, it will be pretty stock. As I said – a simple project. It shouldn’t take long to do, and hopefully get the juices flowing again. Thanx for lookin’, B.
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